Clutch or manual transmission noises

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 11 Jul 2018, 09:46

Greetings all!

My car recently started to make clicking noises that seem to be coming from the middle of the car behind the motor. The noise is noticeable when driving in 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th gears. When I shift (up or down) there also is a grabbing motion, like the gear is not quite in gear but manages to get into the gear, if that makes sense. This started last week, and after inspecting the front end, realized one of the outer CV boots was cracked and separating at the smaller clamp on the axle. I changed the passenger side CV boot and after attempting re-installation a second time, finally got the axle rod to seat correctly into the transmission housing.

Just took the car for a test drive, it rode smoothly for almost 2 miles, when the clicking noise came back. Again, had the grabbing issue when shifting. Going 35, then 30, then 25, then 20 MPH, the clicking noise was still evident. I'm not sure if I should drive the car (or be able to drive the car, is the better question), but am stumped on the noise.

Any recommendations on where I should be looking a little closer to get at the root of this noise? Motor mount, maybe?
Appreciate your replies!

Post by **abscate** » 11 Jul 2018, 10:46

Hmmm, I still don't have a good handle on the 'grabbing issue'

For the clicking - lets get a data matrix going

Noise present with engine on, engine turned off (car still moving)

Noise present on coast, drive, float? Any changes to the noise on transition?

Is the click engine, transmission, or wheel speed dependent?

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 11 Jul 2018, 11:08

Hi abscate!
The noise is present with engine on and driving with gas pedal depressed, and when coasting, does not matter what speed car is going, but the interval between clicking noises when driving faster is somewhat less, so I am thinking it is coming from something that revolves. No clicking noise when shifting, but I do notice a jerking feel/sensation when I release the clutch after shifting. I have not driven the car, or at least had it moving, with the motor off to determine if the noise is "engine-on" related. No noise at all when sitting still at idle. It almost sounds like something is stuck somewhere (a lost screw maybe?) and is making some contact with a moving part. The noise emanates from the middle of the car (and sort of to the driver's side) behind the motor. My fear is that if I drive the car with this noise, that some critical part is going to fall off and then I'll be stuck miles away from home!
I will try coasting and shutting off the motor to determine if the noise is evident and report back.
Thanks for your reply!

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 11 Jul 2018, 12:55

Well, it sounds an awful like the clutch.
Drove around on smooth and bumpy roads for about 15 minutes, no clicking noises at all! Go figure.
Put some gas in the car and air in the tires, and proceeded to drive home.
After stopping to pull out onto another road, I could not shift into any gear or reverse without hearing a loud metal against metal noise (like the gears were hitting a flat wall)!
Was able to coast off to the side of the road.
On the 2-mile tow home, the car made those dreaded clicking noises again, only louder.
Tried to put the car in 1st so it would stay parked on the slight incline to the driveway, but it rolled backwards.
Eventually we got it up onto level ground.
Going to jack up the car in a few hours to see if the axles came loose, and what I might be able to detect with clutch. Glad the front wheels didn't come off!
One thing I neglected to mention earlier is that whenever I turned the car to the right, the driver's side wheel sounded like it was rubbing against the wheel well, but it sounded more like metal rubbing against metal. Once I straightened out the car, that noise went away. I am thinking maybe a wheel hub? But, that's separate from the clutch problem, I believe.

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 11 Jul 2018, 16:36

The chasis number to my car is 458986. How would I find out what kind of transmission/clutch this has; can the transmission to removed without taking out the engine/motor?

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 11 Jul 2018, 16:43

Okay, I managed to mix up the terminology on slave cylinders!
This is what I meant to ask:

"...Depends on your chassis number, you can have external slave cylinder or internal. External means you can change it while the transmission is in the car, internal means transmission have to come out." (from an old post about a clutch on MVS)

So, how would I determine if my car has an external or internal slave cylinder given the above chassis number?

Post by **abscate** » 11 Jul 2018, 18:08

Go to the Lisle Volvo site and put your VIN number in and see which clutch comes up.

You drop the transmission under the car after removing the subframe. You need to hang the engine with a hanger but you have a friend in the upstate who has this tool. It’s about 8-10 hours but not bad if you break it into 2 hour intervals. It’s all stupid work.

You should probably put both front wheels up in jackstamds and carefully drive the FWD and determine exactly where the noise is coming from.

Chock both back wheels, jackstands, and safety blocking.

sventastic · Post by **sventastic** » 12 Jul 2018, 00:33

Should be relatively easy to visually inspect to see if you have an external slave. Here's what it looks like

Remove the airbox infeed tube and you should be able see it (or not)

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 12 Jul 2018, 04:14

Hi sventastic!
Thank you for the pics; helps a lot!!

Based on my search last night, using the VIN and chassis number, was able to obtain this info:
transmission: AW55-50SN
engine: B5254S R5 2.5L

And here I thought the engine was a 2.4L!!!
Of course, the motor could have been replaced prior to my ownership.
VIN stamped on inside fender reads: YV1LW5549W2458986

Upon visual inspection, my car does not have an external slave cylinder.
So, it looks like the transmission would have to come out.

Post by **abscate** » 12 Jul 2018, 06:40

Well they got the transmission wrong, so they probably got the engine wrong too.

The AW55-50SN is a automatic transmission - unless someone did a swap on your car?

Did they make a 2.5L back in 1998? (question for the P80 Gurus)

A manual transmission only weighs about 70#, so it is easy to handle after you get it disconnected.