04 S60 starter issues

cambo357 · Post by **cambo357** » 14 Jul 2018, 16:51

04 S60, 130k miles. Battery is about 6 months old.

Prior to issue for a while: When starting, does not start right away. Wife will let it keep trying for 10 or 12 seconds and starter slows down but does eventually start. Try to keep her from doing this, and try a second start after a couple seconds as that works 100% of the time, but she still does it.

Just prior to issue: The wife left the lights on overnight. I started it up with no issues once I found it like that.

Wife stops at store on the way to work, then car does not start. She says it won't turn over at all. Thinking it is battery due to leaving the lights on. Calls AAA and they say battery is fine, might be a starter issue. The guy hits starter with a wrench (what the wife says, as I was not there) and the car then starts. She heads to work, but was running "funny" so she stops, turns it off and restarts. Car runs fine. At work, car will no longer start. I come to check on it. Starter makes a click but not much else, no crank. Try a jump start, nothing. Smack starter with screwdriver a few times. Makes a slightly different noise but still no crank. Check the solenoid wire and it appears to have a good connection. Based on all this, I was guessing starter is dead, and tow home.

Replace starter today. Still exact same issue. Get a click and nothing. Immediate retry does not even give a click, but it will after waiting a bit. Check fuse 22, good but replace anyway. Check voltage at starter, get 11.5v. Same at solenoid wire. Try to jump start, same thing. Getting 12.7v at main power connector next to fuse block. Checked at pin 27 for relay 2/35 and 12.7v. Same at 85 or 86 (forget which) while trying to start. Everything appears to have power. Shorted between positive on starter and the small spade on solenoid and the solenoid did spin.

So, what should I look for next? Really need to get this going by Monday.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 14 Jul 2018, 23:23

So, what should I look for next? Really need to get this going by Monday.

Could be the starter relay. Go to the fuse box, locate the starter relay. Swamp the starter relay with one of the same part number. The A/C relay and Starter relay are often the same. See if your problems move to the other system.

Post by **oragex** » 15 Jul 2018, 04:18

To test the battery, you should measure with doors closed and all lights off (including trunk lights - just pull the fuse) 30 minutes after driving the car. Do you get 12.5V or above? Measure again the next morning the same - just pop the hood open before unlocking the car. You'll need to see about the same voltage, not less than 0.2 difference.

On the other side, I don't see why the starter measures a 11.5v while you get 12.7v at the fuse panel. Sounds like there thick wire to the starter has an issue somewhere - maybe it's cracked at some point under the cable jacket?

cambo357 · Post by **cambo357** » 15 Jul 2018, 08:58

Unfortunately, I cannot get it started so no way to check voltage just after running.

I should have worded things better. the 11.5v was prior to hooking it up to another car and boost pack, the 12.7v was after. I did this since the lights were left on and I knew the battery was possibly low.

Since I do get voltage at the starter cable, as well as the solenoid cable when trying to start, I really cannot think of any reason it would not work other than the rebuilt I just put in is bad. Going to pull it and exchange today.

oragex wrote: 15 Jul 2018, 04:18 To test the battery, you should measure with doors closed and all lights off (including trunk lights - just pull the fuse) 30 minutes after driving the car. Do you get 12.5V or above? Measure again the next morning the same - just pop the hood open before unlocking the car. You'll need to see about the same voltage, not less than 0.2 difference.

On the other side, I don't see why the starter measures a 11.5v while you get 12.7v at the fuse panel. Sounds like there thick wire to the starter has an issue somewhere - maybe it's cracked at some point under the cable jacket?

Post by **abscate** » 15 Jul 2018, 09:59

Your battery needs to go on a charger overnight and get a full charge.

11.5 volts isn’t dead , it’s dead and deep in the underworld , down in the River Styx Shift.

Electronic cars like P2 need solid batteries or else the logic will be unhappy

cambo357 · Post by **cambo357** » 15 Jul 2018, 11:31

Appreciate all the help.

Turns out the rebuilt I got was bad. Took it in the the parts store and they tested it, no good. Luckily this store happened to have another on the shelf (took 2 days to order from the previous store). They tested that one and it was fine. Got it in, fired right up.

The good news is that I am now very proficient at replacing these things

I was able to remove the bad one, go to store A and find out their bench tester was not working, go to store B, test both, come home, install starter, test, and reinstall fan shroud and everything else in 90 minutes flat.

Post by **oragex** » 15 Jul 2018, 11:48

cambo357 wrote: 15 Jul 2018, 08:58 I should have worded things better. the 11.5v was prior to hooking it up to another car and boost pack, the 12.7v was after. I did this since the lights were left on and I knew the battery was possibly low.

It depends when is the battery measured after turning off the engine. Right after shutting off the engine, the battery will have a higher voltage which then starts slowly decreasing. A correct battery reading would be a good 30 min. after the engine is off. Some garages will shut off the engine and measure the battery right away and say "look, it's at 13.2v, it's excellent". If you got 12.7v 20-30 min after, then the battery can take a full charge and is in good condition and most probably the alternator works great. The remaining issue will be a parasitic drain overnight. www.youtube.com/watch?v=A1xxHECS8as

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 15 Jul 2018, 12:53

Shorted between positive on starter and the small spade on solenoid and the solenoid did spin.

This is what got my eye. It tells me he is not getting power to the solenoid when he turns the key.
I'm assuming he meant the starter spins because, solenoids don't spin.

Post by **mrbrian200** » 16 Jul 2018, 14:04

cambo357 wrote: 15 Jul 2018, 11:31 The good news is that I am now very proficient at replacing these things I was able to remove the bad one, go to store A and find out their bench tester was not working, go to store B, test both, come home, install starter, test, and reinstall fan shroud and everything else in 90 minutes flat.

I would never in my wildest dreams think one could change the starter on these, including a run to the store, in only 90 minutes. You da man. Glancing down in there it looks sort of pita-ish with not quite enough clearance to pull the thing out easy once it's unbolted, sort of like the alternator which I have done.

cambo357 · Post by **cambo357** » 16 Jul 2018, 19:56

mrbrian200 wrote: 16 Jul 2018, 14:04 I would never in my wildest dreams think one could change the starter on these, including a run to the store, in only 90 minutes. You da man. Glancing down in there it looks sort of pita-ish with not quite enough clearance to pull the thing out easy once it's unbolted, sort of like the alternator which I have done.

Believe me, I was shocked as well. TBH, it was pretty tight, until I decided to pull the fan shroud. That is just a couple of bolts, wire connections, and zip ties. Once that was out, plenty of room to do what was needed. I have done the alternator as well, and this was way easier.