Impact driver question
I have to do some suspension work. I do not have a large compressor (all I have is a small pancake one I use for nailing), thus I am considering a 1/2" impact driver (either wired or cordless). Any thoughts?
- SuperHerman
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For air impact you need a big compressor tank or they will not work. Pancake is a no go. I got rid of my big tank as it was not used enough to warrant the space it consumed and pulling it out of the corner and filling it up for three bolts made no sense. I went with a corded electric DeWalt 1/2 inch. It has handled just about everything I have thrown at it, but sometimes the breaker bar and four foot fence post is needed or the space is just not there. It is bigger than the air equivalent and needs to be dead on center of the bolt for certain high torque situations. It also does not like extensions. These items and the cord are drawbacks.
My brother just got a cordless Milwaukee and it was not able to undo lug nuts which my pal's Snap On cordless could.
I would go with a corded unit - it has down sides, but for the most part I am very happy with the DeWalt.
My shoulder is not what it once was and lying on one's back with no clearance makes normal hand tools umworkable for me. I always torque to spec when ever possible. It will make life easier that is for sure.
I am currently looking at the 3/8" electric variants as they appear to be great when limited space is available and an 1/8" turn gets old.
My brother just got a cordless Milwaukee and it was not able to undo lug nuts which my pal's Snap On cordless could.
I would go with a corded unit - it has down sides, but for the most part I am very happy with the DeWalt.
My shoulder is not what it once was and lying on one's back with no clearance makes normal hand tools umworkable for me. I always torque to spec when ever possible. It will make life easier that is for sure.
I am currently looking at the 3/8" electric variants as they appear to be great when limited space is available and an 1/8" turn gets old.
I have found that air impact tools are unlikely to deliver any accurate torque specs.
There is a Milwaukee cordless that looks like it might work accurately.
I'm guessing that anything accurate enough is going to be expensive.
Unless you need to drive lots of torqued fasteners accurately I would just use a manual.
I have an oil-less compressor with a 25 gal tank which drives all my tools except the 1/2".
When I need accurate torque I first use either a cordless or air driver with a low torque setting.
After that I then finish the job with the manual torque wrench.
I have three torque wrenches, a clicker 1/2" with ft/lbs and metric, and two old craftsman dial readout.
One of them is a low torque and the other is for high torque.
There is a Milwaukee cordless that looks like it might work accurately.
I'm guessing that anything accurate enough is going to be expensive.
Unless you need to drive lots of torqued fasteners accurately I would just use a manual.
I have an oil-less compressor with a 25 gal tank which drives all my tools except the 1/2".
When I need accurate torque I first use either a cordless or air driver with a low torque setting.
After that I then finish the job with the manual torque wrench.
I have three torque wrenches, a clicker 1/2" with ft/lbs and metric, and two old craftsman dial readout.
One of them is a low torque and the other is for high torque.
- SuperHerman
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Absolutely torque with a torque wrench. Use power tools to remove nuts and bolts and to get it close to tight then finish with a torque wrench.
- abscate
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ALAN
I use a 1/2 Pittsburgh Corded forlug nuts And suspension work. From Harbor freight. Use To undo, crack heavy stuff
I got a light duty Bosch 18V for spinning stuff on/off. Lately, I use a 24 inch breaker to crack lugs, then zip off with the cordless
Air tools won’t work with a homeowner compressor
I use a 1/2 Pittsburgh Corded forlug nuts And suspension work. From Harbor freight. Use To undo, crack heavy stuff
I got a light duty Bosch 18V for spinning stuff on/off. Lately, I use a 24 inch breaker to crack lugs, then zip off with the cordless
Air tools won’t work with a homeowner compressor
Empty Nester
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- jonesg
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Can a pancake compressor do lugnuts? Youd think notAlanS wrote: 01 Aug 2018, 12:12 I have to do some suspension work. I do not have a large compressor (all I have is a small pancake one I use for nailing), thus I am considering a 1/2" impact driver (either wired or cordless). Any thoughts?
You'd be wrong too.
The little air stubby impacts use less air, fit where elecs cant go and pack a big punch. They also cost 25% the price of elecs.
I recently got the nitrocat 1056xl, over 550ftlb. $109.
Brake caliper brackets no problem.
My milwaukees are great but they dont fit where the air stubby does.
So , on the question of air delivery.
- oragex
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SuperHerman wrote: 01 Aug 2018, 14:21 For air impact you need a big compressor tank or they will not work. Pancake is a no go. I got rid of my big tank as it was not used enough to warrant the space it consumed and pulling it out of the corner and filling it up for three bolts made no sense. I went with a corded electric DeWalt 1/2 inch. It has handled just about everything I have thrown at it, but sometimes the breaker bar and four foot fence post is needed or the space is just not there. It is bigger than the air equivalent and needs to be dead on center of the bolt for certain high torque situations. It also does not like extensions. These items and the cord are drawbacks.
My brother just got a cordless Milwaukee and it was not able to undo lug nuts which my pal's Snap On cordless could.
I would go with a corded unit - it has down sides, but for the most part I am very happy with the DeWalt.
My shoulder is not what it once was and lying on one's back with no clearance makes normal hand tools umworkable for me. I always torque to spec when ever possible. It will make life easier that is for sure.
I am currently looking at the 3/8" electric variants as they appear to be great when limited space is available and an 1/8" turn gets old.
+1 a 1/2" corded with good torque can be fun but it's also quite heavy and the cable gets in the way, plus as mentioned you will still need a good 1/2" ratchet with a good extension (I slide a 2ft electric pipe over the handle) or a torque wrench, to tighten back that bolt.
I rather like to work with a rather small cordless electric drill with a 3/8" adapter, loosen first the bolts with the appropriate ratchet/extension, then undo them with the electric drill - it works like a charm as long as the bolt threads are nice and clean (some penetrating oil and steel wire brush come in handy).
A 1/2" swivel or flex head can also be quite handy. I rather prefer the flex type, because the joint sits further away from the bolt, but it can get annoying to work with. Mind you the tools linked may not be doable to slide an extension bar over the handle.
https://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half- ... 96783.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-dri ... 62332.html
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
- erikv11
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I use a cheap little homeowner air compressor (6 gallon, rolling style, Menard's) and a medium quality stubby 1/2 impact tool for removing lug nuts and almost every nut/bolt on the car that needs an impact, including suspension bolts. For spinning them off once broken free a little cordless electric is nice I agree.
For axle nuts I use a 1/2 inch corded impact from Harbor Freight, $50 and it has never failed on probably 15 axles now. My air tool setup doesn't work at all on those. Thew corded is bulky and you could use it for lugs if you want but I never do, too big.
I never tighten with the air tool, unless I have the air ratchet out which applies very little torque. Use the torque wrench or some other hand tool for tightening.
I just watched the video, I have the same red Chicago Pneumatic stubby impact that is used there with the pancake compressor.
For axle nuts I use a 1/2 inch corded impact from Harbor Freight, $50 and it has never failed on probably 15 axles now. My air tool setup doesn't work at all on those. Thew corded is bulky and you could use it for lugs if you want but I never do, too big.
I never tighten with the air tool, unless I have the air ratchet out which applies very little torque. Use the torque wrench or some other hand tool for tightening.
I just watched the video, I have the same red Chicago Pneumatic stubby impact that is used there with the pancake compressor.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 201k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 223k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 201k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 223k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
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