Is the axle splines glued to the wheel hub?, 850,-97

LOB · Post by **LOB** » 02 Aug 2018, 02:37

I've had this car since 50k miles so the wheel hub has never been tampered with by any Volvo mechanics.
When did Volvo start gluing the axle at factory?
The reason I'm asking is that I'm about to replace my wheel bearings and don't know if I should by a puller? Does anyone know how big the puller needs to be? 100-150 mm?

Post by **Rattnalle** » 02 Aug 2018, 03:10

They never glued them at the factory afaik. They were only glued to quieten them if owners complained about clicking noises.

Post by **abscate** » 02 Aug 2018, 04:40

Ive done four of them now, and three came apart with hand tools,one needed a press due to corrosion.

One thing I noticed too, only one bearingfelt different than new, the other three felt fine but were growlers

LOB · Post by **LOB** » 02 Aug 2018, 04:51

abscate wrote: ↑02 Aug 2018, 04:40 Ive done four of them now, and three came apart with hand tools,one needed a press due to corrosion.

One thing I noticed too, only one bearingfelt different than new, the other three felt fine but were growlers

Thanks! I can always return the puller to the shop idlf unused. Do you now what size of the grip the puller needs to be? 100-150 mm!?

Post by **abscate** » 02 Aug 2018, 04:57

Ill measure this morning,after I measure the size of my P2 engine cover bolts

LOB · Post by **LOB** » 02 Aug 2018, 05:05

Another question; the axle nut should be tightened 120 NM + 60 degrees. My torque wrench goes only to 110 NM. Can anyone guess how many extra degrees I should pull given that I'm 10 NM short on the first pull?

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 02 Aug 2018, 05:53

If you plot torque vs angle of twist you can extrapolate where 120 NM is.

Post by **scot850** » 02 Aug 2018, 11:10

I have had several P80's with original axles that had the 'glue' in there. Now as I had not owned the cars from new it could be they had it added post manufacture or been there from new.

As stated previously it was used to stop clicking of any play in the splines to hub fit of the axles. I used to mash the things to get them off, but on one occasion ended up damaging the threads on the axle. So more recently I managed to use a larger 3 legged puller with the center threaded 'leg' sitting on the center of the axle. Use grease to lube the base of the puller threaded leg between it and the axle end. On one occasion I had to tighten it, let it sit, tighten let it sit, and eventually it came loose. Unlike me just be patient!!

Neil.

Post by **abscate** » 02 Aug 2018, 11:35

LOB wrote: ↑02 Aug 2018, 04:51
abscate wrote: ↑02 Aug 2018, 04:40 Ive done four of them now, and three came apart with hand tools,one needed a press due to corrosion.

One thing I noticed too, only one bearingfelt different than new, the other three felt fine but were growlers
Thanks! I can always return the puller to the shop idlf unused. Do you now what size of the grip the puller needs to be? 100-150 mm!?

he outer hub on my removed P2 bearing is 136 mm

On the torque - if its a beam wrench, just go off the scale a bit equal to the 100-110 distance.

Honestly, if you torque to 110 and then angle, it will be fine.

Post by **erikv11** » 02 Aug 2018, 12:21

110 plus angle will definitely be just fine.