1998 S70 - Replace Water Pump w/Tensioner Removal Only

Post by **burnout8488** » 13 Dec 2013, 01:34

Saw the URO box and cringed, but I hope it works well for you. At this mileage, and by the sounds of it, it sounds like it will still outlast the car, even if it only goes 40K.

Post by **MoVolvos** » 13 Dec 2013, 01:57

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burnout8488 wrote:Saw the URO box and cringed, but I hope it works well for you. At this mileage, and by the sounds of it, it sounds like it will still outlast the car, even if it only goes 40K.

I only drove it about 15K in 20 months since ownership. Expect to drive it less now as there are 2 vehicles. Look for every opportunity to drive it more than 6 miles in town at a time as I am seeing the wax like built-up in the Dipstick Tube. Took it out for a 30 mile round trip drive today and the Tube is clean again. As for URO if it sprung a leak tomorrow I would just sigh but I am hopeful it will last awhile.

Blessings,

BKM

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hanzbe420 · Post by **hanzbe420** » 25 Dec 2013, 08:43

I didn't have to take of the crank pulley i just pulled it in between the bolt and the crank and it had barely enough clearance, but definitely enough for it to get in. And for the tensioner i took out the ecu's and took out the ecu case and the bolts that attach the floor of the case to the car and was able to fit a 1/2 to 3/4 extension in there and used a adjustable to turn it to release the tension on the serpentine belt. The reason you have to take the bolts out of the bottom of the tray is because you have to lift the tray up to fit the extension in there. the whole case is snap on so its pretty easy if you dont got the special tool or cant make one. And for my case i got the ipd crank holder the little blue one with 4 prongs. it didn't even fit right so i had to just keep turning back the came by one of the 3 bolts on it and the belt finally got taught everywhere around. If there is any slack from any pulley to another then its not right and need to move it very slightly. and the positions of the bolts on the cam should be left one has 2 bolts on top 1 bottom and right 2 bolts top 1 bottom and that's when its lined up correct in most cases, but always go by the little notches hopefully better marked with paint or something. I dunno if this will help anyone just wanted to put my experience when i changed my timing.

trex1956 · Post by **trex1956** » 03 Mar 2014, 11:39

In looking at your diagram, I see a zip tie around the front cam pulley going down and around what, the belt or the tensioner pulley ?

Post by **MoVolvos** » 04 Mar 2014, 00:45

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trex1956 wrote:In looking at your diagram, I see a zip tie around the front cam pulley going down and around what, the belt or the tensioner pulley ?

If you are referring to the blue tie in "cn90"'s diagram it should be the tensioner.

Blessings,

BKM
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Post by **Clockboy** » 16 Sep 2015, 07:49

I need to replace the water pump also and since the timing belt was done not too long ago thought I'd try this approach. My question is if this is also possible with the mechanical tensioner. I do not think there should be a problem, but thought I'd throw it out there and get some more opinions.

bil745t · Post by **bil745t** » 16 Aug 2018, 23:05

Thank you JimBee. I just completed replacing timing belt, WP, serpentine belt and all associated tensioners, idlers, etc. on our '95 850 T5R. It was one of the most frustrating and trying maintenance procedures I have ever experienced. Basically still not used to the confined space around this engine. I was working alone and I could not get the belt installed properly. I probably could not have completed the timing belt installation if it were not for the post by JimBee. If you are researching how to do this project read his paragraphs 4 (How to get...) and 5 (Eliminate the guess...). Excellent information.

I never found the mark(s) on the crank. Rotated engine twice and did not see any mark, tic, line, notch or anything on crank. The timing belt had been changed before and I didn't know if the serpentine pulley had been taken off the crank and perhaps re-installed out of position. I decided to proceed using the timing marks on the cam sprockets.

Post by **rspi** » 17 Aug 2018, 18:41

The '95 has a notch in the valley of the crank sprocket.

Post by **abscate** » 18 Aug 2018, 01:56

bil745t wrote: 16 Aug 2018, 23:05 Thank you JimBee. I just completed replacing timing belt, WP, serpentine belt and all associated tensioners, idlers, etc. on our '95 850 T5R. It was one of the most frustrating and trying maintenance procedures I have ever experienced. Basically still not used to the confined space around this engine. I was working alone and I could not get the belt installed properly. I probably could not have completed the timing belt installation if it were not for the post by JimBee. If you are researching how to do this project read his paragraphs 4 (How to get...) and 5 (Eliminate the guess...). Excellent information.

I never found the mark(s) on the crank. Rotated engine twice and did not see any mark, tic, line, notch or anything on crank. The timing belt had been changed before and I didn't know if the serpentine pulley had been taken off the crank and perhaps re-installed out of position. I decided to proceed using the timing marks on the cam sprockets.

Did you just align the marks on the cams and assume the crank was on the clearance mark? Yikes. I guess if you Can Lock the cam there that would work

On both of my cars I’ve found It easier to put the belt on the water pump last, not the idler. The larger the sprocket, the easier it I still to start the belt over the edge and work it on.

Post by **erikv11** » 18 Aug 2018, 09:32

bil745t wrote: 16 Aug 2018, 23:05 ... I never found the mark(s) on the crank. ...

oh no! Hopefully will turn out ok.