xc70 2007 tranny question 160k

volvomadness · Post by **volvomadness** » 31 Aug 2018, 09:19

Thought all the tranny kinks were worked out on the 2007 xc70, in fact understand that the xc70 2007 has a different tranny than its sisters the s60 and v70.

When I have been driving for a while and coming to a stop the tranny seems to downshift abruptly.

Is this a update or am i in store for issues later on.

Madnesss

Post by **oragex** » 31 Aug 2018, 13:00

Google a bit about fluid replacement. It needs a specific 3309 type of fluid. I would advice not to replace the fluid entirely because of your high miles. I would only drain the transmission pan - which would remove some 3.5 liters, then refill with the same amount and drive from there - careful as these transmissions don't have a refill plug so we use the dipstick tube to refill. See how it goes for the next 6-12 months.

Post by **Rattnalle** » 31 Aug 2018, 13:05

I'd still replace it completely but perhaps with a few hundred miles of driving in between each drain so it has time to get mixed around

Archer · Post by **Archer** » 31 Aug 2018, 15:39

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 10106-042k

Post by **oragex** » 01 Sep 2018, 04:37

Archer wrote: 31 Aug 2018, 15:39 https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 10106-042k

This only adds to (my) confusion, who's making what. Is the genuine 3309 Volvo oil made by Mobil or by Idemitsu? Idemitsu seems to be one of the original OEM suppliers for a few car makers https://www.idemitsulubricants.com/about-us

Georgeandkira · Post by **Georgeandkira** » 01 Sep 2018, 08:58

Hello oragex, You said, "...who's making what. Is the genuine 3309 Volvo oil made by Mobil or by Idemitsu?"

Who cares?
All the oil industry companies work in harmony with each other. They have to.
Additive makers make enough to sell to the blenders such that they aren't warehousing their product.
Blenders will fill in each other's gaps in demand etc.

An economics teacher I had called it the "collusion which benefits us all."

Post by **SuperHerman** » 01 Sep 2018, 10:28

Pull your transmission dip stick and take a look at the color of the transmission fluid. It should appear clean without a ton of "black" particles. If it is dirty I recommend starting out with the cheapest and easiest potential cure - that is a transmission drain and fill.

Your solenoids may not like the fluid and a drain and fill many times resolves the issue.

Personally I would use Valvoline MaxLife as it works, it is easy to find and cheap. I have run it in a number of Volvos, as have many others, with no issues. If you want to stay by the book I believe Toyota Type IV is also a direct 3309 equivalent. The transmission is an AW and Toyota uses the same ones in their cars.

Do a drain and fill, measure what comes out and replace the same amount. Warm up car and top off as required. Try not to overfill. If you overfill a little don't worry as you are going to do another drain and fill shortly. Run the car through the gears for a 15 minute drive and do another drain and fill. Top it off correctly this time, engine running, at temperature, level ground. Repeat process every 20-30ks afterwards and hopefully you will be happy.

If you want to be exact, and not risk the overfill condition, you can pull fluid out the fill stick port, or back off the drain plug and let a little dribble out.

Plenty of write ups on the process.

Post by **E Showell** » 06 Sep 2018, 04:51

I got the Aisin Type T IV fluid from Jet.com for a little less than $5/quart, free shipping.

I have thus far done, I believe, 4 drain and fills of my transmission. On the last one, the fluid that came out (about 3.2 quarts per drain of a warm transmission) still looked like coffee with a splash of milk. No bright cherry red yet, but the transmission is behaving much better than before with hard downshift from 2-1 when slowing to a stop all but gone. I have not yet reset the fluid counter, nor have I done an adaptation via VIDA, which I hope to do after a couple more drain and fills. I started my first one around 130 k miles and there is no evidence it had ever been done before so I think you may be pleasantly surprised by the results, but keep at it. One D & F is unlikely to be a miracle cure given the system's fluid volume overall.

If you are the impatient type, you can do a "Gibbons Method" change -- described in detail on this site, but there are those who believe such an all-at-once change for fluid that has never been touched could cause more harm than good. I don't have an opinion on that either way, but opted for the drain and fill method because I don't then have to detach any hoses.

Good luck and be sure to report back.