Secondary air trouble shooting

Hateprojects · Post by **Hateprojects** » 09 Sep 2018, 23:54

Pump is good, relay is good, valve is opening to exhaust pipe.
I thinking it must be lacking a signal to the relay, but I'm lost for information on what or how to proceed from here. Thanks for any advice in advance, as I'm new to navigating my way through the forum.
The pump just isn't coming on.

WhatAmIDoing · Post by **WhatAmIDoing** » 10 Sep 2018, 08:59

IMHO, the SAS is more trouble than it is worth. Its contribution to the environment is just as questionable. Look up SAS delete. As long as you leave everything installed, I'm sure the emissions tech won't notice. All they do is check for codes, maybe give a quick visual check. Diesel Gate taught us nothing.

Hateprojects · Post by **Hateprojects** » 10 Sep 2018, 10:55

Ok then, I just ordered diodes on Amazon. This car has many systems not checking in on the readiness inspection prior to the smog inspection. Do you think the sas delete will get that ball rolling? The tech felt the shot of air, into the exhaust, hitting an o2 sensor was what it takes. I'm hoping that was a misguided thought.

WhatAmIDoing · Post by **WhatAmIDoing** » 10 Sep 2018, 18:18

Hateprojects wrote: ↑10 Sep 2018, 10:55 Ok then, I just ordered diodes on Amazon. This car has many systems not checking in on the readiness inspection prior to the smog inspection.

The emissions self-checks are finicky. There is a topic here somewhere detailing what is required to get all the monitors to read ready.

Do you think the sas delete will get that ball rolling? The tech felt the shot of air, into the exhaust, hitting an o2 sensor was what it takes. I'm hoping that was a misguided thought.

The SAS system only works at cold start for maybe a minute or two. The ECU ignores the O2 sensors until well after operating temp has been reached. The O2 sensor is only there to set long term fuel trim (or at least that is my understanding). Any codes that set a check engine light will prevent monitors from readying.

Once you clear the SAS code with the diode, monitors should start to ready as you drive.

Hateprojects · Post by **Hateprojects** » 13 Sep 2018, 13:51

Looking at several Sas deletes and wanting to be sure I'm on the right one for my car. 98 v70 base model. That would be diode between a32 and a37. Another thing was they seemed to always think I know more than I do. There are two modules, I'm right to be working on the one on the cars left, right?

WhatAmIDoing · Post by **WhatAmIDoing** » 13 Sep 2018, 13:58

I do not recall the exact pins, but you want the ECU which is the module that says Bosch Montronic on it. I don't know if that is the left or right one, as I have a stick shift.

Hateprojects · Post by **Hateprojects** » 13 Sep 2018, 14:29

Thanks again, that's the one I have opened.

Post by **erikv11** » 13 Sep 2018, 15:03

A32 to A37 yes. Make sure you get the orientation right and watch out for cooking the diode. I really prefer to modify the wiring under the ECU rather than the ECU itself. Less invasive, and if you drop in another ECU then the delete function stays with the vehicle. But, I do not have soldering skills ...

WhatAmIDoing · Post by **WhatAmIDoing** » 13 Sep 2018, 15:39

IMHO, It's easier to solder the diode into the module rather than under the harness. Also, it's easier to screw up on the harness and is very much not a fun job to replace it.

BlackBrick · Post by **BlackBrick** » 13 Sep 2018, 15:55

I did mine on the module 10 years ago. Works like a charm. It was also fun to rip out all the SAS equipment. But you'll need to buy the correct bolt to plug up the exhaust hole. Get the Volvo OEM. I tried a normal bolt, and the threads were not right so it popped out. Boy, was that loud!