a/c leak. Use or don't use stop-leak product?

Post by **JimBee** » 14 Sep 2018, 08:05

Last summer I went through all a/c connections, cleaned them up and installed new o-rings, took off the compressor and adjusted its clutch and installed a new dryer. The system worked great for the rest of the season. This summer, the system was blowing barely cool air and the compressor was cycling rapidly. I poked the filler valve and there was plenty of pressure still remaining from last year. Adding half of a can of r134 got me back to nice cool air. But it isn't holding. Most likely, there's minor leak in the evaporator or condenser.

Since time is short and the season is winding down, I'm thinking about adding some sealant. On the scale of good vs bad ideas, where does this one land?

Post by **rspi** » 14 Sep 2018, 08:42

I think my mechanic put it in both of my cars. Runs like new.

Post by **mrbrian200** » 14 Sep 2018, 11:36

Stop leak is a 50/50 at best. Most of the time it doesn't work. There's a risk of it causing more problems than it solves especially if there's moisture in the system/not properly evacuated before charging/omitted installing a new receiver dryer last time it was serviced. In every case it's generally a better idea to find the leak with UV detection and fix it without using stop leak/sealer.

WhatAmIDoing · Post by **WhatAmIDoing** » 14 Sep 2018, 11:51

I can't remember the brand, but I picked up a small can of refrigerant with "super stop leak" in it from an Autozone. Used it in a Honda that was not holding pressure at all (A/C would blow cold for only 24hrs after recharge). The catch is, you must use the whole can, and then add more r134 without sealant to keep it from sealing the low pressure port and other things shut. It worked great, never had to refresh the system again for 4 years. But I believe you will have to do this with the system very low on refrigerant, as you have to add the whole can and then some more.

Edit: maybe it was Advanced Auto Parts, I can't remember. That was many years ago.

Post by **abscate** » 14 Sep 2018, 14:46

A strong no from me on these with orifice systems

The job will be the same next year, so if you are keeping the car, its time to get it done.

I did 4 evap jobs this summer - two on my own/friends - two paid/charity cases (1/4 of indy cost)

Post by **JimBee** » 14 Sep 2018, 14:57

I agree with **all** the comments! abscate's insight on the orifice tube possibly getting clogged helps with a decision; if that happens, then where are you?

abscate, how about doing one more? A nice number like 5? I'll be heading in the vicinity of New York on my way to Toronto to get a hernia fixed. It would be great to get that done for next summer.

Post by **abscate** » 14 Sep 2018, 15:02

Im game!! If things go well, one long day you can get the evap out and the dash back in. From there, you can drive the car until you finish the rest.

Even better, a drop and swap while you get your body evap replaced...

Have you bore scoped the evap to see how nasty it is?

Post by **JimBee** » 14 Sep 2018, 18:46

Great! I haven't made the appointment yet, but am thinking I'll need to attend to it this fall. I'll get a medical opinion on its progression in the next few weeks. I'll stay in touch on details.

I need to order the coil. Do you recommend a particular brand and source?

I haven't scoped it. I do have one of those scopes with the flexible probe—somewhere. I'll have to dig it out and give it a trial run. The next few days, among other things, I'm busy with reinstalling the alternator I just had rebuilt with a new slip ring and bearings and the torn boot on my winter 93 needs to be replaced. Today the new GKN boots arrived. Then POR 15ing some rust on the burgundy 96 855 and reinstalling the rear bumper with new brackets. Fun.

Post by **abscate** » 14 Sep 2018, 18:54

I’ll resend details in PM

This is a 98 s/v70 ??

Post by **JimBee** » 14 Sep 2018, 18:59

Mine is a 96 855. The platform is the same, no?