Didn't do proper disconnect/reconnect battery

misstootie · Post by **misstootie** » 08 Jul 2016, 14:47

Hi,
New to this forum and to Volvo. Bought a 2001 V70 XC turbo. My husband was working on the car with all the doors open and didn't want to drain the battery. He reconnected/ disconnected it several times for different reasons. Oops! that was before we read about a special process to do so. (!st car we've EVER had to do that on and have owned LOTS!!!)

So now the AC blows without the key even in the ignition.

I've heard not following a certain sequence will wreak havoc. My question: Is there a way to reset this? To get the computer or whatever it is that screws up the electrical system when the proper procedure was NOT followed?

Thanks so much in advance!

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 08 Jul 2016, 17:29

Disconnect the battery (again)- give it a few minutes then step on the brake pedal (without key in the ignition)... next put the key in and put it to position II and then from outside of the car (key still in position II), shut all the doors and then reconnect the battery. This is the "reset" procedure and may clear up the issue with electrical gremlins that were created.

Post by **abscate** » 09 Jul 2016, 05:35

It's normal for P2 cars (1999 on) to have the blower come on with the car shut off as long as it turns off after a few minutes.

But, do try the reset procedure above. It can't hurt

mathy221984 · Post by **mathy221984** » 15 Jul 2016, 02:29

MadeInJapan wrote:Disconnect the battery (again)- give it a few minutes then step on the brake pedal (without key in the ignition)... next put the key in and put it to position II and then from outside of the car (key still in position II), shut all the doors and then reconnect the battery. This is the "reset" procedure and may clear up the issue with electrical gremlins that were created.

Hi MIJ,

Would this apply to my car as well?

Is it okay to do this when the wipers are stuck on when the key is in 2 position?

Thanks,

Mat

misstootie · Post by **misstootie** » 19 Jul 2016, 06:19

Thanks so much, everybody! I appreciate the help. I will try this and let you know the results. (Sorry for the delay in responding; I've had a lot going on.)

Post by **JRL** » 19 Jul 2016, 08:57

Disconnect the battery
Tie/tape both cable ends together, this will essentially reset everything.
Let sit that way for 15-30 minutes.
Reconnect by connecting the NEGATIVE post first then the positive, you should be fine

Froggyfleas · Post by **Froggyfleas** » 23 Nov 2018, 12:19

Hi. I'm having this issue now. Car sat unstarted for a couple of weeks. Not unusual for me. Before I read the manual (duh), I had hooked my charger to the battery in the cargo space. Wouldn't jump start, so slow charged until it was fully charged. It only clicks when key is in position II; actually makes all kinds of odd noises, not like typical bad starter noises. I now have the charger hooked up in the engine compartment, as manual instructs. Yes, I'll always consult manual from now on lol.
Anyway, still wint jump, lights and other electrical bells and whistles flash off and on sporadically, but still won't start. I now have it on charge/maintain, since my starting attempts obviously drained the battery back down. I have noticed that the brake pedal seems to be immobilized in the fully depressed position. I'm wondering if the electronic control module is confused, and needs to be reset. I've seen the advice to remove the negative cable, and touch it to the positive- or remove both cables from the battery, and tape them together for 15 minutes or so. With the key in the II position?
Is this correct? Which method should I try? Removing just the negative, and touching it to the positive, or removing both and joining them together? 15 minutes with either method?
Reason I'm being so careful and asking....I'm an itty bitty 57 year old farm lady, alone here on the farm, and I don't want to kill myself messing around with batteries and crap. Touching the cables together sounds dangerous to me lol. I've got more knowledge and bravado than the average female, but I still don't want to try myself out here.
Also, I saw a question relating to the siren on another thread. I do know that my siren is bad, per a service message displayed. Can't find it under the hood. I know what it looks like, as I bought a new one.
One last tidbit...when putting an analyzer on - before the battery went dead - got a message "P2187 system too lean at idle bank 1" is this related to what's happening now? I only analyzed it because got either a transmission, drivetrain, or suspension problem that's an whole other thing.
Oh...and once the battery was fully charged, and I tried to crank it, the message "12v active in rear" whatever that means.
Thanks, and sorry so long.

Post by **oragex** » 23 Nov 2018, 12:33

Hello

Ask a friend to bring his car close and to keep it's engine running. Careful not to have the cars touching each other.

Insert your key in Pos II (stamped on the side of the barrel)

Careful using the battery jumping cables: always keep each alligator with a different hand to not let them touch each other or touch any metal part on the car (ask the friend to hold the alligators at one end and do the same at the other end).

Connect first both alligators at each of friend's battery posts - red to red (+ post) black to black (- post). The + or - pole is stamped on the battery near each post

Then do the same on your car directly at the battery inside the trunk : red to red, black to black : careful not to touch any metal around and make sure it's grabbing safely so as not to break loose. You can grab directly at the wired connector (make sure both car connectors are properly secured on the battery posts)

If you can't access the battery inside the trunk, you may try to connect inside the engine bay (ask us where).

Once connected try starting your car, let the engine run at idle then disconnect the cables again with care. Each person again keeping 1 alligator/hand. Once done, drive the car around a good 30 minutes (no need to race, just normal drive).

Always when jump starting or disconnecting/connecting the battery, have the ignition key in Pos II (engine off).

Maybe try getting one of these things to disconnect the battery when the car is not used for longer periods:

Post by **abscate** » 23 Nov 2018, 17:49

Welcome froggyfleas!

About the only damage you can do is touching the positive terminal to ground with a tool. Usually you always disconnect the negative first and connect the negative last for this reason. Once the negative is disconnected , the electrical system is safe.

You need to make sure you have a fully operational , good battery in your 2002 or all kinds of weirdness will happen.

How old is that battery?