2006 xc70 breather (PCV) system

jimpierce7 · Post by **jimpierce7** » 04 Jan 2019, 13:26

As I am believing the videos I've seen, when I do the glove test it does not suck in to the oil fill or the dip stick. Doesn't really blow up either but the videos I've seen it's real obvious that there is a suction there.
190k miles so it's probably due.

Seems I'll need a clamp crimping tool for the vacuum lines. The rest looks pretty straight forward from what I have seen.
Anything special I should know?
My timing belt will be what comes after this.
What is best for cleaning up the gasket surfaces? Been awhile since I've done it and what I have is a wire wheel.

Recommended places to get the breather kit?

jimpierce7 · Post by **jimpierce7** » 04 Jan 2019, 13:32

Sorry, so I don't lose the number
Volvo part #30731007 crankcase breather hose nipple

Post by **oragex** » 04 Jan 2019, 19:27

If it doesnt suck in, it's bad

Crimping tool off Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/CV-Joint-Boot- ... ect=mobile

Surfaces with a steel sponge (quality one). I took 30 min to clean the manifold znd give it a fresh paint

New manifold and throttle body gaskets I believe

Replace the ptc nipple or clean well

Lower left manifold bolt may need a 1/4 or 3/8" swivel joint to reach

Right time for the thermostat as well ($100)

Vaseline on the injectors seals before placing back, and clean the seals really well so they don't leak. To pull the rail I use a pry bar as the seals get stuck in there.

jimpierce7 · Post by **jimpierce7** » 04 Jan 2019, 20:52

I was thinking the thermostat might be a good idea.

The video I saw mentions that the lower left manifold bolt can't come all the way out due to the thermostat housing? Am I right that replacing the t-stat would make it so I am able to pull that bolt and not have to cut the gasket?

Post by **oragex** » 05 Jan 2019, 01:59

I think yes, but accessing the recessed lower tstat bolt may be harder (maybe with a 1/4 extension?)
Cutting a small piece of the manifold gasket is safe and quick, the genuine gasket at least is made of a think paper (and the bolts have low torque)

Post by **Rattnalle** » 05 Jan 2019, 05:23

I replaced my gasket thermostat in place. No issues. The entire row of lower bolts you only loosen to take the manifold off then you take them out to replace the gasket when there's room to work.

A 1/4 wobble extender was enough for me to get to the lower left manifold bolt.

jimpierce7 · Post by **jimpierce7** » 05 Jan 2019, 15:30

There sure are a lot of options for kits. Wow. And they don't seem to be just one having more than the other.

jking4020 · Post by **jking4020** » 05 Jan 2019, 16:39

Major yes on the wobble socket extension. You don't need to change your manifold gasket. Once you get it all taken apart blow through all the pieces to see what's clogged. There's two lower ports into the engine block that needs to be cleaned out usually. Once its clean blow air in the motor through the lower ports and hopefully you'll get air coming out the top oil fill cap. If you do then you're good. Put on the new pieces you need. If you don't get air through the motor it probably means you have to drop the pan to clean out more gunk. I also recommend draining the radiator a bit so you can take off the top radiator hose. Do NOT pull the hose out of the way. You can crack the cheap plastic radiator where the hose goes in. And be very careful with the fuel rail. I don't know about a pry bar. All you have to do is give a nice little yank and it pops out. And if you're a space cadet like me you may want to Mark each end of the vacuum lines according to where they came off. Sometimes I've forgotten where they go back on. Good luck. Its really not a hard job.

Post by **xHeart** » 05 Jan 2019, 18:37

That bottom corner screw is a straight shot from under the steering pump. It doesn't need complete removal for taking out inlet manifold. In fact all three bottom screws are straight shot from underneath manifold -- avoid wobble if you can.

This may help a little: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=61449

dlundblad · Post by **dlundblad** » 06 Jan 2019, 15:52

If you replace the candied line, you might as well replace the lower radiator hose too because it'll be in your way for the driver side rear banjo bolt.

I second a thermostat replacement. Wish I would have done that actually.

When you do your timing belt, you might as well do the water pump and consider the cam seals. I replaced the entire PCV and all seemed well only for the seals to need replaced a year later.