2008 S60 Can alternator cause parasitic drain on battery?

[veektor]

Here is the link to 12 second video I took of the engine noise.

How many miles does the engine have on it?
Does the noise clam down when the engine warms up?

It sounds like Piston Slap to me, which is more of an annoyance then a concern. Anybody second?

195K on the car, and as far as I know the engine is original.

The valve noise persists regardless of engine temperature. I wanted to test cooling system for leaks, so I let the engine warm up the other day. Every time I revved the engine up that same knocking sound only increased in frequency.

Before I warmed up the engine I was only getting P0302 (Cylinder 2 misfire). Once it warmed up I got two additional codes, one for
VVT solenoid, and one for O2 sensor. To me the combination indicates there may be an issue with proper lubrication to the head, and that some of the valves are not performing correctly. Sounds like I'm picking up some Seafoam on the way home today.

[veektor]

Not impossible the previous owner installed the wrong alternator.

Bingo!!!

Here I was getting bent out of shape over alternator amperage, but it looks like PO put one in for pre-2005 MY. Sticker on the rebuilt unit says "13998", which even Autozone website says "DOES NOT FIT". When I select "View items that fit" the site returns part number "15005". Both are listed as 140A alternators. I hope this didn't fry anything in the ECM.

I guess I shouldn't feel so mad about this. I had a feeling that among all the candidates I looked at, this one seemed to need the least amount of work and $$ to get on the road. The car has been mostly neglected, but not abused or ruined.

[RickHaleParker]

Piston Slap does not necessarily stop when the engine warms up.
I was asking if the noise diminishes when the engine warms up.


The misfire on #2 can be a lot of things.
I would start with spraying some Starting Fluid around the intake on #2. If there is a leak it will suck in the starting fluid and your hear the engine surge.

If you about to drop the oil pan, some Oil galley brushes to clean out the Oil galleries, would be a good idea.

P0027 = ECM-6140
Possible source

• Low oil pressure
  Poor oil quality
  Damaged reset valve
  Mechanical fault in the variable valve timing (VVT) unit.

P2195 = ECM-24B0
Possible source

• Leakage in the exhaust system
  Short-circuit to supply voltage or ground in signal cable (-)
  Short-circuit to supply voltage or ground in the pump supply cable
  Short-circuit to supply voltage or ground in calibration supply cable
  Open-circuit in signal cable (+)
  Damaged heated oxygen sensor (HO2S).

[oragex]

This is the regulator for 2001-2004 - it is an updated number as the original part fitted at factory had a different number
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 51#fitment

And for 2005-2009 the new number/regulator also has an updated number than those originally fitted by Volvo from factory
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 15#fitment


A video which shows several things including removal of the alternator from the engine bay - however it's for the non turbo engine, for the turbo engine the alternator is quite more trickier to remove, sometimes the headlight needs removed in order to pass the alternator by that hole

However it may (I'm not sure about this) be possible to only swap the regulator and keep your existing alternator core - so this won't need the alternator to come out from the engine bay, just to remove it from the bracket.

[veektor]

Thanks to everyone chiming in with advice.

I raided a couple of salvage yards this morning. The 2006 XC70 I was hoping to find was already removed from the lot. I hate it when the inventory system is not in tune with what's on the ground! I mistakenly thought that 2006 XC90 was compatible, but decided to cross-check after I saw how they crammed the alternator between the V8 engine and the firewall. I was glad to find out it wouldn't work for me because I would have been tempted to try pulling it out of there, though I don't know how. Another salvage yard had the right vehicle since Feb 21st, but some clever bastard beat me to the alternator already. I've made calls to a few other salvage yards without any success. There is one more candidate at the farthest searchable salvage yard, but the vehicle being there since mid-January does not give me much confidence right now. I get the impression 2005+ alternators for P2 are a desired commodity.

[veektor]

However it may (I'm not sure about this) be possible to only swap the regulator and keep your existing alternator core - so this won't need the alternator to come out from the engine bay, just to remove it from the bracket.

If I don't find a suitable alternator in the local salvage yards in the next week, I'll just order a new regulator from FCPEuro along with the TB/WP kit and try this theory out.

[abscate]

You should be harvesting a CVVT solenoid from one of these cars a small well, to address that valve timing code

I believe intake and exhaust are different

[veektor]

You should be harvesting a CVVT solenoid from one of these cars a small well, to address that valve timing code

I believe intake and exhaust are different

Agree 100%, I just forgot to put it on my list. I wish I had, this would have been a more fruitful excursion to the junkyard. All I got this time was a bunch of hose clamps and a few body flange bolts. I really like the quality of hardware on these Volvos! I'm probably going to build up an arsenal of hose clamps just by taking a few each time I visit the yard.

I also grabbed the battery bracket and a bolt, but it seems difficult to install. Perhaps the battery is a tad too large, or maybe I have to fiddle with it a little more. I don't love the bracket design at this moment, seems a little unforgiving.

[Kraig]

Definitely can. If a diode shorts to ground or to no resistance (a bit unusual but does happen) it will drain the battery in a few hours.

Is this diode shorting going on in the regulator or in alternator?

Had an intermittent phantom power draw I lived with using a booster pack until overvoltage message.
Asking because I'm torn now after reading this thread that I should swap out the whole alternator instead of just regulator. I'm one stubborn phillips head away from having it off.

[abscate]

Checkout rspi site for a you tube on alternator rebuilding and see if you are up for it. You guys have great electrical shops in LA, which is what I would do.

[youtube][/youtube]