Hello:
So my 1982 245 has a very high idle -- especially in park/neutral -- and I've been trying to solve it.
While attempting to fine the idle adjustment screw I discovered what appears to be some very rigged solutions to past problems. I purchased the car from a woman who had a Volvo mechanic basically hobble it together out of two parts cars and I'm slowly discovering more and more interesting fixes to solutions. I'm a very very amateur mechanic so bear with me here.
I'm wondering what this 'fix' is:
As you can see its right below the intake manifold. From what I can discern from the manual I have it seems like this should be where the idle adjustment screw/etc is? I'm assuming this being weirdly zip tied etc might have something to do with my high idle as it seems like this would change air flow/etc.
ALSO:
Off of the air flow sensor I discovered this hose coming off the front with a screw in it -- I'm assuming to 'seal' it... what is there? Where should it be going?
ANY advice/ideas would be amazing. I recently moved across the country (to Philadelphia) so I don't have the wealth of resources I had in Portland to have somebody just take a look at it when things are over my head.
Thanks.
1982 245 high idle issues / weird fixes by previous owner
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MoonsMoons
- Posts: 3
- Joined: 24 January 2019
- Year and Model: 1982 245
- Location: philadelphia, pa
- 93Regina
- Posts: 2813
- Joined: 18 January 2014
- Year and Model: 93:240/940
- Location: Sunflower State
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Based upon a 1981 VW Rabbit with Bosch CIS, the
1. sensor plate is not coming back down to where it should be, or
2. intake manifold is sucking air via vacuum hose, brake booster, etc. all air must pass thru sensor plate, or
3. Auxillary Air Valve (Air Control Valve) is wide open...defective
Without seeing engine, I don't know what that kinked hose is about
This capture below was for Volvo's other engines of that era
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MoonsMoons
- Posts: 3
- Joined: 24 January 2019
- Year and Model: 1982 245
- Location: philadelphia, pa
I'm not finding an auxiliary air valve OR the idle adjustment screw -- which from the second photo you can see are part of the same loop.
Again I'm no real mechanic -- so I could be missing the boat entirely here but from what I've been able to discern this seems right.
Also the bolt 'plugging' the hose seems like that could be a big part of my problem as thats basically where air sensor and throttle body meet -- I'm wondering if the terrible streets and potholes of Philadelphia loosened that 'fix' and now that is leaking air -- whereas before the bolt plugged it. When I investigated it I found a bunch of mauled rubber from where the bolt meets the hose. Maybe when they first put it in there it ate up some of the rubber and formed a good seal.
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MoonsMoons
- Posts: 3
- Joined: 24 January 2019
- Year and Model: 1982 245
- Location: philadelphia, pa
So did some digging and found this:
Which seems to line up perfectly with the hose with the zip tie on it. Any ideas about that?
At the front of the bottom of the air flow sensor appears to be the hose that is plugged with a bolt. Any idea what that is? I can't find any information in this manual to tell me what that part actually is.
And:
I'm still not finding this idle adjustment -- I'm really confused by that.
Tomorrow I'm going to try to do some more digging and see if the CO screw exists.
Anybody have any ideas?
Which seems to line up perfectly with the hose with the zip tie on it. Any ideas about that?
At the front of the bottom of the air flow sensor appears to be the hose that is plugged with a bolt. Any idea what that is? I can't find any information in this manual to tell me what that part actually is.
And:
I'm still not finding this idle adjustment -- I'm really confused by that.
Tomorrow I'm going to try to do some more digging and see if the CO screw exists.
Anybody have any ideas?
- 93Regina
- Posts: 2813
- Joined: 18 January 2014
- Year and Model: 93:240/940
- Location: Sunflower State
- Been thanked: 65 times
There would be a manual means of controlling idle, but it may require trial/error.
I suspect if Air Control Valve could be bought, it would be high dollar.
The physics of doing a manual setup is air must be sucked off after sensor plate. Analogous to a choke setup, but here, one might use a heater-water-valve to modulate air supply. I don't know orifice diameter on Air Control Valve...what size when fully opened, and if air bypassed when closed.
I would have to read up on how it worked...if basically an on/off principle, one could use a solenoid setup, instead of a choke-cable setup, and have a switch inside vehicle to toggle.
I'm busy now, but maybe by Monday evening I can scratch around on this topic....I just need operational detail, and orifice diameter required.
With a high idle, something is sucking air...
I suspect if Air Control Valve could be bought, it would be high dollar.
The physics of doing a manual setup is air must be sucked off after sensor plate. Analogous to a choke setup, but here, one might use a heater-water-valve to modulate air supply. I don't know orifice diameter on Air Control Valve...what size when fully opened, and if air bypassed when closed.
I would have to read up on how it worked...if basically an on/off principle, one could use a solenoid setup, instead of a choke-cable setup, and have a switch inside vehicle to toggle.
I'm busy now, but maybe by Monday evening I can scratch around on this topic....I just need operational detail, and orifice diameter required.
With a high idle, something is sucking air...
- 93Regina
- Posts: 2813
- Joined: 18 January 2014
- Year and Model: 93:240/940
- Location: Sunflower State
- Been thanked: 65 times
If you have power brakes....take pliers and slowly clamp down on brake-booster's vacuum hose when engine is idling.
With engine idling, what happens when brake pedal is pressed down, to engine's RPM?
With engine idling, what happens when brake pedal is pressed down, to engine's RPM?
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