200 V70 Boost and v.e. 2-3 Shift issue?

[Sommerfeldt]

Thats a lot of mo ey for no gain. And for no reason, again i am astounded at the lack of knowladge i encounter here

Well...I mean, I think everyone’s out to learn and help. Even though I got my thoughts a little crossed between the CBV and the WG up there, it’s hardly an astounding lack, is it? That’s a little harsh.

- S

[Yarddogperformance]

You want to split hairs go to a barber. Ive been fixing engines and building cars since 5 years old, ive driven, repaired and restored cars you will never hear of and im autistic. So no not harsh, you guys are just trying to sound smart whinning about nomenclature,

That would be names of things btw.

[Yarddogperformance]

And just in case your wandering i am currently saving for a css white block, gtx 3582, and a haltec ecu, so not buying stupid crap that my 10yr old can make with a discription. And definatly not going anyware near the blocks limits as i do enjoy whopping mustangs with a wagon.

[Sommerfeldt]

And just in case your wandering i am currently saving for a css white block, gtx 3582, and a haltec ecu, so not buying stupid crap that my 10yr old can make with a discription. And definatly not going anyware near the blocks limits as i do enjoy whopping mustangs with a wagon.

Well, you're definitely right about the block. These Volvo blocks are good for more than 1200 hp, that much is known. It's the rest that's the problem - too much boost at low rpm will kill the rods, and timing issues will mortally wound interference engines.

Not trying to split hairs, but it doesn't sound like your mods are safe without modifying the tune, and someone else might not be as well versed in this as you. So I'm trying to understand what you're doing, and flesh out the info so maybe we can see why/how/if it's working and how to do it safely.

- S

[Yarddogperformance]

All ive done is un do the stupidity caused by carb standards, if you morons look at the afr on a stock volvo being dynoed you would understand.

Also the stock rods are you kidding me?
Anything over 300 you need forged, however ive made huge power on cast rods, im not worried about the rods as the presures at 50rpm are the same at 20000 rpm. What bends the rods is the sleeve cracking and cocking the piston sideways, again the lack of knowladge, also it may make 1200 a few time but im looking for over 500 for 200k miles. Can you even fathom that?

[Yarddogperformance]

Oh and is this the part where you say i need monster injectors and e85? Cause i wont, yes larger but im not running anything over 101, and ill bet it still dont predet.

The stock pcm even controls the fuel well enough that if you use low grade and stay in spec it just loweres the upper boost levels (6-10 psi)
6 psi 85
8 psi 91
10 psi 101
All verified and confermed by my local volvo specialist who istalled my idea on his car as i was explaining it to him.

Than he stompped my*$$ using my own info

[Sommerfeldt]

Oh and is this the part where you say i need monster injectors and e85? Cause i wont, yes larger but im not running anything over 101, and ill bet it still dont predet.

The stock pcm even controls the fuel well enough that if you use low grade and stay in spec it just loweres the upper boost levels (6-10 psi)
6 psi 85
8 psi 91
10 psi 101
All verified and confermed by my local volvo specialist who istalled my idea on his car as i was explaining it to him.

Than he stompped my*$$ using my own info

You can certainly make good power on the stock internals, but I'm not sure you're right about what bends the rod - usually rods fail because of high revs, but also pressure. So if you lug the engine, then that puts too much strain on the rods, since the pressure isn't being shifted out...also detonation and so on. It would have to be extreme before a crack in a sleeve is bad enough to cock a piston sideways, wouldn't it?

I didn't say you need monster injectors and E85 - at 500hp you would probably need the biggest stock injectors - the T5 oranges is only 315cc, I think? One V70R model came with 300 hp from the factory over here, and they weren't much different from the other models. Tune, turbo and injectors/fuel pressure was about it, if I recall correctly. That said, we don't get 85 octane here - it's 95 or 98 at the pump, which is 89 and 93 in the US, I think?

But you do need to tune it right for the power you want and the parts you put on it. And if you don't, you can definitely bend rods.

- S

[Yarddogperformance]

Back in the days of street racing back in the early 90s when you could do something we used just regular pump gas. Every one says octain octain octain, well if they would back the timing down octain not important.

Pinging is caused by hotspots in the piston.
What causes hot spots? Lean burn.
So you add fuel back the timing back.

So yeah high boost and over advancing will cause the engine to bend a rod, but thats in timing and fuel and an engine with this issue has a terrible tuner, all these people are worried about peak numbers, im actually not.

[Yarddogperformance]

Us gassoline ranges from 60_80 for 85, then they ad ethenal, 91 here tests out from 75 to 85 octain then they add ethonal,

However the same "stock tune on my car give 10psi fro. 2200 up on true 85 with no ping

Now if i go one state over they have to post actual octain within 5 percent, when i filled up with 101 my peak boost was higher than people said was safe. However after scoping the cylinders and not seeing damge i think you guys either need better facts or to stop listeng to idiot with too much cash.

Like ive said befor ive been building hp since 5yrs old. Never had a rod fail, not even on a 10000rpm small block cheby with cast pistons and rods that made 950 on true 91. Just for the record, the timing at 9500 rpm was 5 deg. Advanced, not the 35 it called for stock at 1800 with a load

[Sommerfeldt]

Us gassoline ranges from 60_80 for 85, then they ad ethenal, 91 here tests out from 75 to 85 octain then they add ethonal,

However the same "stock tune on my car give 10psi fro. 2200 up on true 85 with no ping

Now if i go one state over they have to post actual octain within 5 percent, when i filled up with 101 my peak boost was higher than people said was safe. However after scoping the cylinders and not seeing damge i think you guys either need better facts or to stop listeng to idiot with too much cash.

Like ive said befor ive been building hp since 5yrs old. Never had a rod fail, not even on a 10000rpm small block cheby with cast pistons and rods that made 950 on true 91. Just for the record, the timing at 9500 rpm was 5 deg. Advanced, not the 35 it called for stock at 1800 with a load

I can’t really comment on the Chevies, since I’ve never owned or tinkered with one.

It’s perfectly safe to run these inline 5’s with far higher boost than stock - mine runs 9.7 psi from factory, but there are readily available tunes that require no parts replacement that will run 14 psi, without costing any more than whatever you pay for the tune, if anything. Like I said, there was an early 2000’s V70R over here that put out 300hp from factory.

The issue is how one goes about it. You can’t move the boost map too far down the rpm range, and you have to time the ECU to what you want to do. If you only do the “physical” changes, it gets risky very quickly.

But you said you’d like to run 500 hp safely - I’m more interested in that plan, because I’m sure it’s possible, but I wouldn’t know how to do it.

- S