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CV Axles Topic is solved

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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JimBee
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CV Axles - accurate fitting CV axle boot

Post by JimBee »

I found the best place to get the most accurate fitting cv axle boot (that I could find) is Advance Auto (owns WorldPac distributor). You can order from your car's VIN. The boot I repaired with GKN/Lobro fit perfectly on the axle shaft (small end of the boot), I did have to stretch it more than I liked to get it onto the cv housing, though once on it seemed okay. I didn't have a helper so I mounted the axle in a large bench vice at an angle, sprayed the axle with some silicone lube and then pushed the boot onto the axle with a short length of 1 1/4" pvc plumbing tube (sink waste pipe from any hardware store). Of course, you have the cv removed from the axle when you do this.

Now you've cleaned up the cv balls and cage as much as you can so it's time to repack it with the grease provided with your new boot. I put on a latex glove and squeezed the new grease from the packet right into the middle of the cv ball cage where the axle goes, then got a finger in there to force that amount up into the ball cage. Then repeated until all the grease from the packet was sqooshed in.

[Side note: The first one I did, I took the cage apart and cleaned it all out with degreaser then blew it dry with air. That's a couple hours extra and not too easy, plus you'd want to keep the balls in the same races they were in. Unless there's noticeable grit in the cage, I wouldn't use a solvent or take it all apart. If there is grit, though, you'll want to make sure it's all cleaned out before you reassemble everything.]

To remove the cv cage is almost a 3 handed task—unless you have a large bench vice. I do and it was really handy for this job. You have to open the prongs on the circlip that holds the cv housing onto the axle, and with the prongs spread (I used a small screwdriver) tap the cage web off the end of the axle. Reinstallation is pretty easy.

When you have the cv cage off, size the large end of the new boot to make sure it's close to the diameter of the cv housing. I had to stretch my boot at least 3/8" to get it onto the cv housing. That worked okay—except that, stretched that much, the Oetiker clamp supplied was too small to fit around the outside of the new boot. This is a problem others have mentioned.

Solution if that happens. The GKN/Lobro boots come with an oem Volvo Oetiker type clamp. Auto supply stores do not sell those clamps (they have one all purpose clamp that's too small and otherwise useless for this job).
Call a Volvo dealer and from the parts desk get the Volvo part # for the size 104mm Oetiker clamp to have it on hand in case you need it. The boot kit that was spec'd for my 5 speed manual axle (that as far as I know is oem) came with a 97mm Oetiker clamp that was too small.

I checked with Advance Auto's supplier. The order desk guy told me those clamps are available through Advance Auto, but they can only be ordered with the Volvo part#.

If you have to stretch the boot to get it onto the cv housing like I did, don't use a metal tool. I used a plastic tool for removing auto trim from a kit like this:
https://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-a ... 67021.html

You can force the boot on maybe 2/3 around the cv housing, then slip the flat, narrow end of the tool under the edge of the boot and slide it up and around. It took me a couple of tries.

Then, of course, you need to secure it. Make sure the groove for the clamp in the rubber rim of the boot is over the recess in the cv housing when you clamp it.

If you carefully remove the original clamp with a small screwdriver, you might be able to reuse it.

Good luck.
Last edited by matthew1 on 04 Feb 2019, 11:47, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: improved title

j-dawg
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Post by j-dawg »

I just bought these.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pcs-Univers ... 3067644968

These are the same style as comes with the inboard EMPI clamps. I couldn't get the supplied Oetiker-branded clamps over the OEM boots on the outer CV. These are cheap and easy, crimp on using the same tool, and take up no more space. Quality seems fine.
1999 V70 T5 5-SPD | ~277k mi | sold

JimBee
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Post by JimBee »

Nice find. Thanks for posting. I'm ordering right away.

Cees Klumper
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Post by Cees Klumper »

The other point of failure on the axles are the inner bearings. If those go, the car doesn't make that clacking sound thru corners, but will vibrate under accelleration. Volvo original axles are sturdy so hold onto those if not worn out.

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WhatAmIDoing
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Post by WhatAmIDoing »

I have found Napa stores to generally keep crimp style clamps similar to Oetikers in stock.
'98 S70 T5M - 323,000mi - awaiting heart transplant :shock:
'98 V70 T5M - 324,000mi - my new project
'99 S70 "AWD" - 220,000+mi - gone :cry:
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Post by abscate »

The cheaper ones are ok when coupled with a bi annual inspection item to make sure they are in place.

Axle shafts are one of the things that can kill an old Volvo
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