Damaged engine block?

Post by **abscate** » 05 Feb 2019, 04:03

That can’t have 24 valves, it doesn’t say DOHC on the cover

Sommerfeldt · Post by **Sommerfeldt** » 05 Feb 2019, 04:51

abscate wrote: 05 Feb 2019, 04:03 That can’t have 24 valves, it doesn’t say DOHC on the cover

Don't be silly. It's 24 at either end. 56 in total, in other words.

- S

Post by **June** » 05 Feb 2019, 06:38

abscate wrote: 05 Feb 2019, 04:03 That can’t have 24 valves, it doesn’t say DOHC on the cover

Why you didn't mention it takes two mechanics to add oil! One on the right and the left... June

Post by **mrbrian200** » 05 Feb 2019, 12:16

What holds the oil filler spout in place? Pressed/threaded/glued??

I seem to recall a thread ~3 years ago... it was either theorized or discussed that overheating the engine fatigues the metal on this plug, or the hole it's pressed into, so that it looses it grip and can pop up even without a crankcase pressure issue. Merely tapping it back down leaves you in a situation where it could pop completely out while driving creating a mess + fire hazard.
If this plug has begun to push out or deform it needs to be replaced, but attention may need to be paid as to why the original plug did this to begin with. If the hole is damaged/widened the new plug may not stay either without measures such as special glue /spot welds etc.

Post by **Clemens** » 05 Feb 2019, 12:20

abscate wrote: 04 Feb 2019, 23:17 It's Volvo Yin/Yang

If your VIN starts with Yin, the oil filler is in front. If it is Yang, the oil filler is also in front.

that's hilarious!

Sommerfeldt · Post by **Sommerfeldt** » 05 Feb 2019, 15:40

mrbrian200 wrote: 05 Feb 2019, 12:16 What holds the oil filler spout in place? Pressed/threaded/glued??

It's a pressed on "sleeve" - don't know if it's glued or not, but the part was available to buy separately once upon a time...

The cap is still available, as far as I can tell, but I think it's inserted from underneath, not from above. So it's not exactly a 2 minute job. Should be possible to do without ripping too much stuff apart, though. Keep the timing belt on, and nothing will move in there.

- S

Post by **erikv11** » 06 Feb 2019, 00:19

Actually, it seems unwise to remove the cam cover without first removing the timing belt, unless you use cam tools to secure the rear of the cams to the head.

If you leave the belt on and just pull the cover, then the sprocket ends of the cams won't go anywhere, but due to pressure from the valve springs the back ends of the cams will pop up, this will likely crack the front cam guides/slots in the top of the head. You can then pretend it didn't happen and put it back together and maybe be fine but ...

Sommerfeldt · Post by **Sommerfeldt** » 06 Feb 2019, 01:07

erikv11 wrote: 06 Feb 2019, 00:19 Actually, it seems unwise to remove the cam cover without first removing the timing belt, unless you use cam tools to secure the rear of the cams to the head.

If you leave the belt on and just pull the cover, then the sprocket ends of the cams won't go anywhere, but due to pressure from the valve springs the back ends of the cams will pop up, this will likely crack the front cam guides/slots in the top of the head. You can then pretend it didn't happen and put it back together and maybe be fine but ...

Good point. Better safe than sorry, too. Do what Erik says!

- S