A/C Actuator Motor Calibration Shortcut Topic is solved

Post by **JBRollo** » 14 Mar 2019, 07:30

Basically that's it. The trick is to match the setting of the old one to the new. You can do this several ways. I used a straight edge to mark the old one accurately and used the battery to move the new one to match.

CoupeC70 · Post by **CoupeC70** » 14 Mar 2019, 07:55

JBRollo wrote: 14 Mar 2019, 07:30 Basically that's it. The trick is to match the setting of the old one to the new. You can do this several ways. I used a straight edge to mark the old one accurately and used the battery to move the new one to match.

ahh I thought you do this on the old one

Like a pacemaker for the clicking going away

Did you buy a brand new actuartor ?

how can i see if it matches with the new one ?? didnt unterstand, maybe you have some photos

Best Regards

Post by **JBRollo** » 14 Mar 2019, 10:05

I bought a new one I think. But I would not be against trying a used one. Sorry, no photos available. I sold the car.
Don't do anything to the old one. Its most probably in the correct position if its clicking.
Its a bit like setting a clock. Make both point the same way using the old one as the standard..
You will know its correct when you put in in as it will line up perfectly. If it doesn't, you will likely have to take it to the dealer to have them calibrate it $$$.

CoupeC70 · Post by **CoupeC70** » 14 Mar 2019, 10:23

Ok, because its a quadrangular head, how did you saw it ?

outside it can be the same position , but inside it can be wrong ?7

for example the old one has full left position and the new one full right... but the quadragular head looks like same position

Post by **JBRollo** » 14 Mar 2019, 11:45

I would make the new one full left. That would make it match the hole the shaft has to go into it when you install it. If unsure, You might put one screw in it and test and try to test it.
Keep in mind I'm doing this from memory but I have done two Volvos using this method and they both worked well.

Post by **jimmy57** » 14 Mar 2019, 12:35

The to pins shown go to motor, one pin through diodes.
The other three go to potentioneter. Use the two next two, each beside the motor pins, and measure with ohmmeter. If you measure the resistance of the old and run the new to get it close to that value measured on the me pins on new one then you will be OK.
NOTE! if the calibration was run with that motor not connected to door either through being disconnected or due to broken external drive gear or lever, then the new part will not fix it. The calibration will have put wide range value in memory and with it fixed it will IMMEDIATELY try to move that motor to the wrong stored end point and store a code and stop functioning repeatedly.

CoupeC70 · Post by **CoupeC70** » 14 Mar 2019, 15:39

hmmm

it seems very difficult

Post by **JBRollo** » 14 Mar 2019, 16:25

I never used the procedure jimmy57 describes above.

CoupeC70 · Post by **CoupeC70** » 14 Mar 2019, 17:38

Maybe I can try first a clean inside the actuator

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 14 Mar 2019, 18:02

If I'm interperting jimmy57 & JBRollo correctly.

1. Measure the old one to determine the Electrical End Point.
2. Move the motor on the new one until you reach the same Electrical End Point on the new one.
3. Adjust the Mechanical End Point on the new one to match the Electrical End Point determined in step one and set in step two.