'01 s80 heated02 circuit

p8ntman442 · Post by **p8ntman442** » 31 May 2013, 10:36

Hello all,
I have 6 Engine codes that set over the last 2 years, 3 are 02 sensor related.

P0056 heated 02 sensor failure bnk 2 sensor 2. (this sensor cable is cut in half from dragging on the road after a stick pulled it down). New sensor on the way.

P0156 02 sensor bank 2 sensor 2. Same issue.

P0050 02 sensor bank 2 sensor 1.

My question, does the heater circuit for one sensor feed both on the same bank? If so, fixing the rear sensor would likely fix the P0050 on the upstream sensor. If anyone can point me to a PDF of the wiring diagrams I'm sure I could figure it out, just cant for the life of me find the file.

Other codes are p1159 ???? suggestions?

P0442 and P0455 which I'm going to hunt down this weekend.

p8ntman442 · Post by **p8ntman442** » 02 Jun 2013, 11:19

So My J hose is cracked, what a miserable place to put that canister. Took a few minutes under the car to find it. I think I will remove the the heat shield bolts for the rear muffler and try an get some extra clearance to work on the hose. The hose has two large cracks at the bend end where the clamp is. Put some silicone on to see if that is the whole problem.

Still looking for advice on P1159......

p8ntman442 · Post by **p8ntman442** » 08 Jun 2013, 20:39

Replacing the rear sensor did not fix the issue with the front sensor heater circuit, so I think they are either in parallel on the same circuit or have two separate circuits, which makes sense as the computer has to know the current in each loop to throw the code.

p8ntman442 · Post by **p8ntman442** » 09 Jun 2013, 19:29

Anyone know what the resistance should be for the heater?

p8ntman442 · Post by **p8ntman442** » 22 Jun 2013, 08:58

OK, New front sensor installed. Proper resistance on the heater circuit is 3 ohms, measured on the new one across the two center pins on the 6 pin plug. They are silver pins, the others are gold, on the OEM and new BOSCH from Rock auto at $80.

Changing the front sensor from the top was a little difficult but I did it in about an hour.

Remove the strut brace and top engine mount, which is really easy.
Remove the top intake pipe marked (twincharged) and set to the side. Remove the passenger side turbo intake pipe with a 10 mm wrench on the v band clamp.

Remove both turbo heat shields with a 12mm 6 point socket and wrench. 12 point will get you in trouble as they are likely rusty. Someone had done the drivers side heat shield on my car before and had slotted the hole on the top bolt which made my life really easy. Thank you whomever you are.

Once the heat shields are out of place, a person without a reasonably large forearm should be able to get the sensor out with a 7/8" wrench and their hand.

You may have to get under the car or take off the drivers front tire to get the sensor plug apart.

p8ntman442 · Post by **p8ntman442** » 22 Jun 2013, 08:59

still chasing the small evep leak...... any advice?

Eldoninoz · Post by **Eldoninoz** » 22 Jun 2013, 09:53

My small evap leak was in the engine compartment. There is a solenoid/valve on the fan shroud on the upper drivers side of the shroud. there is a soft line that transitions to a hard plastic line that runs to the back of the car. My soft line had broken free of the hard line allowing a small leak to happen. I replaced the soft portion with a new piece of hose and snugged a clamp on the connection. I also recently replaced all the soft vacuum lines in the engine compartment when I had it apart last time. No more code has returned since I fixed the soft/hard line connection and did the others as "insurance" since it only took a little extra time and they seemed like they were likely to start failing in the near future.

Rucho26 · Post by **Rucho26** » 01 Apr 2019, 16:50

How exactly did you fix p0050? Im having that code and p0154 codes and I have already changed sensors and fuse and still come up as "pending fault".

Thank you.