Haldex Oil Change

[XC70Rider]

Paid $75 for each CV joint from Colorado Driveshafts. Also getting 12 new M8x40x1.25 allen bolts for $0.50 each from them. They are grade 12 steel.

I'll post pictures later of the oscillation damper I had to cut in half along with the Haldex Clutch I cleaned up. Getting a new oscillation damper delivered tomorrow. The CV joints and bolts will get delivered Friday or Saturday.

[XC70Rider]

I removed and reinstalled many Haldex flanges using a regular electric 8A impact wrench, counter-holding the flange by just bare hand. Yes, you want to saw off your impact socket a bit to make it flush with the low profile bolt, otherwise almost any impact wrench can easily do this job.

Clean thoroughly all the mating surfaces, blow with air, lightly coat with grease - that will make it possible to remove it less painfully the next time.

With both front and rear CV joints being replaced on the driveshaft does any marking need to be done before removal or is that only needed if remounting the driveshaft with the original CV joints?

[vtl]

No markings needed.

[XC70Rider]

CV joints are likely dead, front one for sure (heated up by cat). Don't throw them out just in case, but I take my XC70 to weird places a lot, and it is still intact, driveshaft w/ Febest included.

I got the rear CV joint free by cutting off the flange. To save the possibly dried front CV joint I'm going to replace both CV joints while I have the driveshaft removed. Problem is the front CV joint is rusted onto the front differential just like the rear was rusted onto the flange!



I sprayed Liquid Wrench in the 8 rear holes for 2 days. The 2 extra rear holes aren't threaded so it cannot be pushed out with a bolt. I insert a 7mm angled allen wrench and slammed it with a hammer for nearly an hour. I did it on both extra rear holes were the 6 allen bolts aren't inserted in the front. I pulled the shaft towards the rear with great force but won't release. I tried it in Park, Neutral, and Drive.

Any more tips on releasing the front CV joint?

[vtl]

Grind off 2-3 bolts to have a push pin. Partially screw in the other 2-3 bolts from the back so that they only sit in the flange. Then screw in modified bolts cross-wise from the CV joint side. That would be an improvised extractor device.

[vtl]

Ah, scratch what I said: CV joint is not threaded

You can actually use CV shaft as a reverse hammer. Worse case you'll separate the CV joint and its cover, but cover will be easier to extract (drill the holes for a jaw type puller).

[XC70Rider]

Ah, scratch what I said: CV joint is not threaded

You can actually use CV shaft as a reverse hammer. Worse case you'll separate the CV joint and its cover, but cover will be easier to extract (drill the holes for a jaw type puller).

The rear CV joint and it's flange are removed with the rear end of the shaft just hanging. Should I remount the center bearing and leave the front CV joint bolts removed, then shift in drive without hitting the gas?

Both CV joints are being replaced so I don't care if they break. Just want to save the shaft and the bevel gear from getting damaged.

[XC70Rider]

Finally got the driveshaft removed! Outer casing of both CV joint bearings were rusted in place. To get the front CV joint released I put an OEM Allen bolt into non threaded rear hole and used a heavy crow bar. Weak pry bar wouldn't work.

[XC70Rider]

Febest just repacks what it can source from others. $45 is almost assuredly made in China. Though I think I've got Febest on my Colorado Driveshaft reman'ed shaft, and both CV joints are still alive, sort of

The CV joints supplied by Colorado Driveshafts have a much thicker rubber boot than the Febest CV joint. They are manufactured in Turkey and sell for $75 each. I installed them on my OEM driveshaft last night using Redline high pressure CV2 grease.

I'll be throwing the shaft back on this afternoon after I mount the new oscillation damper that cost $300. The damper came with a new 24mm flare nut and the metal casing for the seal that sits between the damper and Haldex clutch. I'm replacing the seal with the Corteco 8675238. FCP lists it as an OEM match and it cost only $12.

The oil pump I cleaned and a new Haldex filter are already mounted. After mounting the shaft I'll fill the Haldex until it drips out of the plug then extract 100ml as instructed by Vida.

[vtl]

After mounting the shaft I'll fill the Haldex until it drips out of the plug then extract 100ml as instructed by Vida.

Don't. Since you had the unit fully drained, fill it up, go for a ride, come back and check the level. You may need to top it up actually.