2000 S70 GLT Turbo MAF, Throttle, Stalling, no power, not all the time

kfborn · Post by **kfborn** » 12 Apr 2019, 05:26

I have a 2000 S70 I bought used and i love the car but started having some issues. These problems dont happen all the time, they seem to start when im driving short local trips and the car is warmed up. The RPMs will flutter and car may stall, has a problem starting and when i hit the gas pedal there is hardly any response. I have to let it sit and then it will start. I have to play with the gas pedal to get the rpms up enough to pull away, if I can do that and get it moving it usually stops. It was throwing codes for the MAF which i replaced with no change. I decided to check the spark plugs. the first few had a lot of oil in them which im sure isnt a good sign. It almost seems like theres a vacuum leak. In my research i keep coming back to throttle body ETM issues. The car is great when it runs well and I only paid 500 bucks for the car. The previous owner seemed to take good care of it . It has 195,000 miles. The one thing i noticed was the previous owner had the radiator replaced twice within a couple of years. Im sure theres more then one issue but I was thinking my next move would be to clean the throttle body and replace the sensor. Any comments or thoughts will be appreciated. Keep in mind i do not have the money to go to a mechanic and I usually get my replacements parts on line or a wrecking yard.

Post by **abscate** » 12 Apr 2019, 08:55

welcome to MVS

If the ETS light is out on the dash, (make sure it lights up on key on) the throttle body probably still has some life left in it.

If it has a white label on it, its probably original and near end of life.

Any induction leak that lets unmetered air between the MAF and cylinder will give really poor running.

Post by **erikv11** » 12 Apr 2019, 10:05

This is a bit of a long shot but: what brand replacement MAF did you put in?

Post by **wizechatmgr** » 12 Apr 2019, 21:30

Check and verify voltage at battery while running. If you're down under 12 volts (not sure how far down, didn't have a multimeter at the time) then the car will do exactly as you describe until it ultimately dies. Voltage at battery ideally should be ~13.5V with engine running.

In my case the alternator went, taking my headlight bulbs with it. A couple months later the battery decided to peace out.

Post by **abscate** » 13 Apr 2019, 04:11

Oil in the plugs isn’t serious. These cars seep oil from the top and it just works it’s way down to the plug holes. If they are wet don’t worry about it for now. If the holes are full of oil, that’s problem. Black rings and reside at bottom are normal.