Power Steering Line Replacement Question

a3inverter · Post by **a3inverter** » 10 May 2019, 06:35

Folks,

My power steering system appears to have developed a leak. My guess (to be verified this weekend when I can get underneath) is that the rusty pressure line (rusting at one of the points where it clips to the body) has finally pin-holed.

I suspect replacing this line involves separating the engine from the subframe given all the twists and turns. Can anyone verify this is the case?

Also, if that IS the case, I'm assuming it's a great time to replace my engine mounts.

Your thoughts?

Thanks!

537playing · Post by **537playing** » 10 May 2019, 07:22

No need to remove the engine. I had the line replaced and watched my mechanic do it within an hours time.

Post by **oragex** » 10 May 2019, 08:32

As above, however I think the subframe needs lowered at the rear and the engine supported. See this video/ask him for details. be sure to order a line for 2004-up. www.youtube.com/watch?v=NgVRA-DM6fY

a3inverter · Post by **a3inverter** » 10 May 2019, 09:25

537playing wrote: ↑10 May 2019, 07:22 No need to remove the engine. I had the line replaced and watched my mechanic do it within an hours time.

Excellent! Thanks for the info.

Rvolvos · Post by **Rvolvos** » 10 May 2019, 16:27

537playing wrote: ↑10 May 2019, 07:22 No need to remove the engine. I had the line replaced and watched my mechanic do it within an hours time.

Is it necessary to lower the subframe in order to replace the oil lines? I am about to start this job.

537playing · Post by **537playing** » 10 May 2019, 16:36

No need to do that either

a3inverter · Post by **a3inverter** » 17 May 2019, 13:52

Slight change of situation

I believe the passenger side seals are leaking as it's wet and I can't find any other leaks.

Couple of options I suppose:

1. I have seen that the passenger side rack seals on earlier generations can be replaced in situ. Any hope of that/seal kit for a 2006 V70 2.4?

2. Some sort of stop leak. Not sure if something like the Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak stuff would work, or if that is the worst idea ever.

3. A used rack or remanufactured rack. I don't relish this job. Anyone have a ballpark estimate on what it costs to have one of these replaced? I have the rack with the press in (not thread in) hose connections. I know the Volvo rack is $1200 or something. RockAuto has an AC Delco rack which appears to be a push-fitting one. PelicanParts has both Bosch ($670) and a Maval ($366). Anyone have luck with any of those brands?

Post by **DeadEric** » 17 May 2019, 20:58

I've heard positive stories about Lucas and no horror stories when used correctly.

Whatever rack you decide on, make sure you have a replacement warranty. I had a Subaru that took 3 reman racks before I got one that didn't leak.

Couple of tips if you do it yourself.

Center the wheels before you start. Lace the seatbelt thru the steering wheel and buckle it to keep it from spinning. If the steering wheel spins after you remove the linkage it can damage the clock spring.

When you have the old rack out, compair it to the new one to verify the new one is centered. Steering shafts lined up, the inner tie rod ends should line up also. Turn the shaft on the new one so they are about the same.

I wish I had a tip on getting the nuts started for the pressure and return lines, those always give me a hard time.

Post by **abscate** » 18 May 2019, 03:47

I wish I had a tip on getting the nuts started for the pressure and return lines, those always give me a hard time.

Clean the crap out of the threads until they are shiny and new like Madonna. Start the threads before you tighten the rack in place so that you can move both the fitting and the receiver to align.

Same thing works with brake caliper lines by the way.

a3inverter · Post by **a3inverter** » 18 May 2019, 05:12

DeadEric wrote: ↑17 May 2019, 20:58 Lace the seatbelt thru the steering wheel and buckle it to keep it from spinning. If the steering wheel spins after you remove the linkage it can damage the clock spring.

When you have the old rack out, compair it to the new one to verify the new one is centered. Steering shafts lined up, the inner tie rod ends should line up also. Turn the shaft on the new one so they are about the same.

I wish I had a tip on getting the nuts started for the pressure and return lines, those always give me a hard time.

Great stuff Eric. I was actually thinking about how to keep the steering wheel from spinning and what you suggest is right on. In terms of the nuts for the lines, I think given that this is the push-in vs thread-in style, I should have an easier time. Hopefully.