How the hell do I jack up this P2

chris11211 · Post by **chris11211** » 23 May 2019, 23:06

I'm trying to figure out how to lift my S60 in order to stick in some jacks and do an oil change. I know where the jack stands should be, it's just the placement of my typical 2 ton trolly.

I'm not sure if its because my jack stand is too big, but I am trying to lift my car in the designated jack points, and maybe i'm too concered but there's always a popping noise from the trolly (I think).

should i try with a scissor jack? low profile trolly? how do you guys do it?

Post by **Rattnalle** » 23 May 2019, 23:33

For oil changes specifically I usually just stick a thick plank under the subframe in front of the engine and lift there, then add stands. Or I used to before I got the ramps that I just drive up onto.

Otherwise there front lift point on the side lifts the entire side of the car. A two ton should be more than enough regardless.

93SCMax · Post by **93SCMax** » 24 May 2019, 05:32

Rattnalle wrote: 23 May 2019, 23:33 For oil changes specifically I usually just stick a thick plank under the subframe in front of the engine and lift there, then add stands.

+1 on the thick plank to distribute the weight and not damage the subframe with the jack.

Post by **cn90** » 24 May 2019, 06:26

Search forum for jacking points.

Also search for wood ramps photos.

Post by **oragex** » 24 May 2019, 08:23

93SCMax wrote: 24 May 2019, 05:32
Rattnalle wrote: 23 May 2019, 23:33 For oil changes specifically I usually just stick a thick plank under the subframe in front of the engine and lift there, then add stands.
+1 on the thick plank to distribute the weight and not damage the subframe with the jack.

+1 however depending on the hydraulic jack there may or may not be enough place to slide a plank on top of the cup (the car is quite low)
One thing is sure, don't put the jack directly on the subframe, it will bend it - mine got bend

Otherwise, just lift at each front wheel and place a stand on each side - takes longer but hey www.youtube.com/watch?v=0gtY-IZQgfw

Post by **precopster** » 24 May 2019, 16:32

Some times some upward pressure on the bumper is needed to clear the subframe while rolling the jack in place. My lumber is 19mm decking hardwood because it has the grooves which I place against the subframe to prevent slippage. Then I get stands under the left and right side of the subframe. Each stand has a soft pine plank to prevent damage to the subframe.

Remember to chock at least one of the rear wheels!!

gcha8e · Post by **gcha8e** » 25 May 2019, 12:24

I have trouble with this as well. I have very little space to work with as low as the front end is with the worn out springs. I place the crotch of the jack stand in line with the little arced protrusion on the lift point, or right by it. (in the triangular bracket with the lift point) I have to get the jack stand in first and jostle both the jack and the stand around until it's just right, because they bump into each other.

Post by **cn90** » 25 May 2019, 21:21

For oil change, ATF change etc., build wood ramps using 2x10, see below photo for detail.
This way you don't need to jack up the car for routine stuff like oil change.

FYI, I have jacked using front part subframe (a piece of 2x4 between the floor jack and subframe). I have never bent the subframe doing this.

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Post by **abscate** » 26 May 2019, 00:25

Lift under rear subframe bolt. Hockey puck on top of low profile jack for me.