CV boot replacement

turbotim2 · Post by **turbotim2** » 18 Dec 2007, 07:39

I need to replace both outer CV boots on my 96 850 wagon. I ordered the parts from FCP, I was wondering if anyone has done these. My guess is that I will need to pull the axle shafts as it doesn't look like these are the wrap type of boots.

Post by **billofdurham** » 18 Dec 2007, 11:20

Drive shafts have to be removed.

Full details are in the manual pinned at the top of the forum in the .pdf file 'axle shafts front'.

Bill.

turbotim2 · Post by **turbotim2** » 18 Dec 2007, 11:29

Thanks, I ended up deciding to replace the shafts all together. With 152,000 miles they are probably close to due anyway. I got them from FCP for $75 each which is a fair price for sure.

Tsquared · Post by **Tsquared** » 18 Dec 2007, 20:35

Tim, good choice. I found the boot repair kit to be almost as expensive as a new shaft.

turbotim2 · Post by **turbotim2** » 26 Dec 2007, 05:04

Got the axles and put them in. Very easy job. The axles were chinese (as expected for $75/each) and you could tell by the low quality steel. Don't know how long they will last but we'll see.

Post by **tailor** » 26 Dec 2007, 12:54

turbotim2 Posted: Wed Dec 26, 2007 4:04 am Post subject:

Got the axles and put them in. Very easy job. The axles were chinese (as expected for $75/each) and you could tell by the low quality steel. Don't know how long they will last but we'll see.

1)the new axels do they have the very big nuts like this : Wahn
The nut on the left is from a Wahn axel, I think 36mm

the nut on the right is from FEQ and has three stakes in in it (indentations)and is 22mm.

If they where FEQ with three stakes in them, did you just torgue them to spec, and in doing so ruin the thread along the way.

The oem nuts have to be staked after they are torgued unless they are the new bigger self locking type

2)I would think that you replaced with new nuts as indicated in the pdf:axel shafts front of 850 manual
a)supension arm to ball joint
b)supsension arm to anti roll bar arm
Am I correct or did you not deem it neccessary.

3)Should I expect to encounter a fair amount of foul language.

Tailor

turbotim2 · Post by **turbotim2** » 27 Dec 2007, 04:52

The new axles came with new nuts. The nuts take a 36mm socket to remove and install but I believe the shaft itself is 22mm. Therefore it would be technically called a 22mm nut. Your picture didn't come through so I don't know what it is. I torqued the nuts on and called it good. I didn't use the manual you speak of. I am not sure on your last question, are you asking if I replaced the nuts on the hardware? If so, no I reused all of the bolts. They should be fine unless you see one is damaged or rusted beyond use. Also, you don't need to do anything with the anti-roll bar arm to do this proceedure. Foul language always adds to the experience, so I would suggest a sprinkling to taste.
The left side axle comes out with some force so be prepared to put a good pry bar on it. As long as everything comes apart as it should, this job should not take more then 2 hours to complete both sides.

Post by **tailor** » 27 Dec 2007, 07:14

are you asking if I replaced the nuts on the hardware? If so, no I reused all of the bolts

Yes thats what I meant.

Ask and answered, thank you.

I will try to ensure that the cap on the" foul language shaker" will not fly off when I sprinkle to taste!

Tailor

turbotim2 · Post by **turbotim2** » 27 Dec 2007, 08:14

As a side note, the axle bearing on the right side definitely needed to be replaced so I am glad I went ahead with the full axle replacement.

turbotim2 · Post by **turbotim2** » 27 Dec 2007, 08:22

As another side note, I would also recommend replacing the axle seals in the transmission while you have the axles out.