PCV R&R - Losing the battle to the dreaded hidden Intake bolt Topic is solved

a3inverter · Post by **a3inverter** » 08 Jul 2019, 17:44

Folks,

TL:DR - I can't get the hidden intake manifold bolt out using the time-honored methods.

(2006 V70 NA 2.4)

Set out to R&R my PCV system today, but instead spent the better part of the entire day battling the final bolt on my intake manifold.

I tried the 1/4 drive 10mm with long wobble extension but couldn't get enough purchase on the bolt to turn it, kept jumping off. As I didn't want to round it off, I moved to Plan B.

Plan B was a crows-foot. No dice there either. I could get an 11mm on it, but of course that's the wrong size. I even took my 10mm crows-foot to the grind stone to radius the corner in hopes that I would clear the manifold. On to Plan C.

Plan C was to remove the thermostat housing, which required draining some coolant, removing the top radiator hose and then moving on to the serpentine belt so I could get the power steering pump out of the way. My giant torx socket (T-55) on the end of my breaker bar wouldn't fit between the tensioner and the body. Looking at VIDA, removing the thermostat housing involves Special Tool "951 2885 Sleeve". Kind looks like a long socket, but I guess that wouldn't be "special".

Plan D was to remove the sensor on the passenger side of the intake manifold to try to get (hopefully) a tiny bit more room for the wobble, but I wasn't confident I'd be able to get the bottom bolt threaded in blindly (and in a really tight space) afterward so I decided to not go with Plan D.

At that point, I made the call and started to button things back up. Didn't get the fuel rail seated right the first time (the middle injector exhibited an air leak), had to pull it again and I think I managed to bungle the threads on the right rail bolt.

Needless to say, not my best day under a hood in 30 years of trying. It's back together and running without throwing any codes, but quite the PITA.

Thoughts from the esteemed experts? Do I need to pull the thermostat housing to do it right? Even with the power steering pump out of the way, I'm not sure I can get the appropriately sized Torx socket between the thermostat housing and the bracket beneath it. Any experience/tricks of the trade there?

For the record, I am using a Harbor Freight 1/4 wobble and 20 year old Craftsman 10mm socket. The FCP video on a 2004 shows the use of a Snap-On wobble extension/socket combo. I saw OrangeX's video on Youtube and he used a combo of 1/4 and 3/8 extensions (which didn't work for me either)

Lastly, the hose that goes from the top of the PCV to the top of the engine is now missing a section. I was going to get some open cell foam, soak it in motor oil and jam it in the open end. Beats having one's crankcase open to the atmosphere I guess.

Post by **cn90** » 08 Jul 2019, 19:23

- That infamous last bolt: I used 10-mm 6-point socket + 1/4" swivel + 1/4" extension. Try to tighten it a bit (just a bit) so you know the socket "bites" on the bolts. Then undo it, watching carefully not to strip it. Spray some PB Blaster on the bolt way ahead of time.

- Plan E:

- If you have only 100K-110K miles, the only issue is the small vacuum hose, which maybe blocked by sludge, then:

1. Remove the serp belt and alternator (see abscate's post on it). This allows access to the infamous banjo bolt.

2. Replace with new banjo bolt.

3. The small vacuum hose, search forum for size, according to the link below, the I.D. = 3.5 mm:

viewtopic.php?t=84363

4. The hose to the top: you can replace it w/o removing the manifold.

In other words, if you have only 100K-110K and do not need to replace the expensive $150 hose, then the above "redneck method" serves the purpose.

PS: For the orifice at the bottom of the oil trap. I posted my idea in another thread but...at oil change, pour some cheap standard oil down the "hose to the top" (use a funnel). Oil will flow down this hose ---> oil trap ---> collecting pan. If oil does not flow down the collecting pan, then your orifice at the bottom of the oil trap is clogged.

Another idea is to pour Seafoam down the same route, it should clean up some crap w/o the need to remove the oil trap. Again, this is my "redneck idea"...

Post by **cn90** » 08 Jul 2019, 19:32

Maybe your 10-mm socket is too long.

Follow the thread below and get a short 10-mm socket or cut it a bit so it is short.

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-xc9 ... ips-85991/

a3inverter · Post by **a3inverter** » 08 Jul 2019, 19:41

Thanks all. In terms of mileage, I've got 150k now but bought it from a seemingly responsible seller (I have the service records, most of them the Volvo dealership, back to 9k miles). Mostly synthetic oil, but after 100k he started to do synthetic every OTHER oil change. No mention of the PCV in any of those Volvo dealership records

I like the redneck method for determining if the PCV is actually draining and I will take a shot at cutting down a 10mm for the purpose of this job. I also think I've figured out what I need to go get to take the "remove the thermostat housing" approach (which is what VIDA suggests for the 2006 NA).

Post by **cn90** » 08 Jul 2019, 20:09

No need to remove the thermostat housing, which is a pain.

BTW, at 150K, time for new tstat. I posted a redneck way of replacing the tstat + ECT by transplanting them over w/o the need to move the PS Pump. The DIY is in XC90 forum.

Post by **SuperHerman** » 08 Jul 2019, 20:39

I weapon of choice is a SnapOn 10mm swivel socket. Perfect tool for the job. Just add an extension and it fits right in.

Recently I did my brother's car and I forgot the SnapOn and suffered like you. We ended up buying a generic 10mm swivel which was too fat. In the end with some extensions we got it to work, but it was 1/4 turn at a time as it was too fat. Also needed to use some electrical tape to keep the swivel angle from flopping when first going in.

Other than the SnapOn I would try a short 1/4" 10mm socket and a 1/4" wobble extender at least 6" long - that may give you the room you need. After that I suppose you can start grinding your 10mm so it is narrower. You need to keep the socket flush or it will strip the bolt - the wobble extender could just work. I have a set I bought, maybe at HF, and they have saved me a number of times, especially when using the impact wrench.

a3inverter · Post by **a3inverter** » 09 Jul 2019, 01:08

SuperHerman - is this the socket you speak of?

https://store.snapon.com/Shallow-Swivel ... 05807.aspx

Post by **Rattnalle** » 09 Jul 2019, 01:34

I used two short 1/4" wobble extensions. One long one didn't work as I needed the bend in the middle as well. That plus as regular short 1/4" socket. Worked a charm.

Post by **abscate** » 09 Jul 2019, 03:48

Evan and I used a 10 mm crows foot on his R for the PCV. It worked great. You just need to crack it and the a wobble can turn it the one or two turns even with a poor fit , since there is no tension on it.

a3inverter · Post by **a3inverter** » 09 Jul 2019, 10:17

I wish the crows foot (Craftsman) worked for me but the orientation of the head of the bolt was just *this* far off from where I needed it to be.

I'm going out of town for a few days but will be back this weekend and will give it another shot and report back.