ECM-6300 and ECM-6B00 2000 V70R [BAD Battery to fusebox supply cable!] EPIC Troubleshooting Topic is solved

[bmdubya1198]

Alright let's clarify... the codes are both showing INTERMITTENT. Neither are permanent. I have cleared codes several times, and these two keep returning.
The lights flicker only if they're on due to a code. If I command them on via VIDA, they glow solid. Same goes for when they key is in the ON position and they self-test.

[bmdubya1198]

Lemme revive this thread and see if anyone will find it and offer some input... I've been working on this car since April with no changes. All other little issues seem to have been resolved, but these codes won't go away.

To reiterate... the only thing I notice is that sometimes, after starting the car when the warning lights are in their test phase just before turning off, I'll notice the CEL flicker while it's illuminated, and turn off as it's supposed to. Other times, it doesn't do that. When it flickers, I hear the ETM whining. I've done every bit of diagnostics I know of, plus what anyone and everyone has suggested, and I cannot find ANYTHING wrong.

The problem, I think, is that I keep getting redirected to other possible issues, but let's remember... these are the only two codes I have (aside from a random pair of ABS codes that appeared today, and the clutch sensor which is not plugged in), and the only symptoms I have are directly related to the ETM, ECM, and CDM. Nothing else.

I've checked the signal wires (pink for ETS light, brown/white for CEL) for a short to ground. When I disconnect the 24/13D connector (under dash, the only connector between the ECM and CDM) I get an open circuit to ground in all key positions. Therefore, I do not believe the wires are a problem.
Both wires will show continuity to ground when everything is connected, but that's due to the way the circuit is designed in the CDM. So from what I understand, they are supposed to be grounded (albeit at 30ish ohms).

Everything else in the car is fine (except for the low boost and lack of AC, both of those I know the where the problem is), so as much as I'd like to ignore the ECM as a suspect, I really believe it's a possibility. Although I appreciate everybody who has helped me on here and other forums and Facebook, I have yet to receive any advice that's gotten me any closer to the problem. VIDA has been useless, and unfortunately so has Swedespeed (which is odd, those guys tend to be better with electrical stuff). I've contact Hilton about this, and he doesn't seem to have any idea either.

I am NOT bringing this or any of my cars to the dealer, I refuse to give them my business at their outrageous prices... plus I can't allow myself to pawn work off onto someone else, it goes against my "do everything myself" mentality!

[jimmy57]

Those light circuits would be feeding battery voltage to the pins on the ECM when the lamps are not lit. With age the pins on modules can get corrosion and the female terminals in ECM base could have corrosion as that area is able to get wet with engine washing and puddle splashing. Remove ECM and inspect closely. If there is an issue with those terminals then there can be issues with others not yet causing DTCs because they are wrong signals but not out of plausible range for those signals.

[abscate]

Yeah you are pretty much down to cloning a new ECM and putting a new connector here.

[bmdubya1198]

I've noticed that the terminals don't quite align with the connector due to it being two separate connectors within the A- and B-connectors, but I'm usually able to slide them to the right position to align it with the ECU. I'll pull it again tomorrow just to be sure.

It's also worth mentioning that IMM-321 appeared today, and I know for sure that it's associated with starting issues after clearing codes in VIDA. It's not every time, but several times when I've read/cleared codes, when I go to start the car it'll run for a couple seconds, then stall. After that, no matter how many times I turn it off and on, it'll crank and crank but won't start. Then I'll pull DICE off the OBD port and it'll crank right up. I find that really odd, and it has to be linked somehow.

There is a wire running between the OBD2 port and the immobilizer, which has an additional junction point on automatic models sending that into the TCM connector. When I removed automatic wiring during the swap, I left that wire alone so I wouldn't hurt the immobilizer function. Otherwise, there are no other differences between auto and manual wiring for this.

Also, when reading codes, my interior lighting (dome lights) will turn off and back on several times. Never noticed this in a P80 before.

[abscate]

More weirdness. I’m in dome light Hades on my S70, it is quite a complicated function on that system, involving at least three modules I can see.

[bmdubya1198]

Yup... it's a pain.

[scot850]

I'm sure you have already checked or swapped the B+ cable in the main fusebox and the electrical portion of the ignition switch?

The B+ cable can look ok, but undo the nut in the fusebox and look at the cable under it. Mine looked ok, but found it had almost totally melted and had bare areas that could potentially short out.

Not sure if it would help, but I have a spare ECU from a 2000 V70R, and also a ETM from a 2000 V70XC that I had connected to my 2000 V70R as suggested by precopster to see if it worked. It whined like a good un so should be good. Also think I may have a good electrical portion of an ignition switch. If you fail to get any further I can send the parts for you to swap out on a trial basis. I would like them back as they are my back up stash.

Neil.

[bmdubya1198]

I'm sure you have already checked or swapped the B+ cable in the main fusebox and the electrical portion of the ignition switch?

The B+ cable can look ok, but undo the nut in the fusebox and look at the cable under it. Mine looked ok, but found it had almost totally melted and had bare areas that could potentially short out.

Not sure if it would help, but I have a spare ECU from a 2000 V70R, and also a ETM from a 2000 V70XC that I had connected to my 2000 V70R as suggested by precopster to see if it worked. It whined like a good un so should be good. Also think I may have a good electrical portion of an ignition switch. If you fail to get any further I can send the parts for you to swap out on a trial basis. I would like them back as they are my back up stash.

Neil.

Thanks, I'll definitely let you know if I need to borrow any of that to check!

I checked the voltage drop on that B+ cable, IIRC there was not a significant enough drop to replace. It looks to be in pretty good shape, so I'm not too concerned about it yet. I may check that again just to be sure.
Fortunately I was able to borrow the ignition switch electrical portion from my S60 and I had a spare from an '04 C70, but I haven't noticed any changes after replacing it.

[abscate]

I’m still not happy about the MT s2ap and getting that ECM to play there.

I’m guessing this did not code pre swap?