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2006 XC70 Oil Pan Stuck on with The Right Stuff

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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Taskmaster
Posts: 23
Joined: 1 July 2013
Year and Model: 2006 XC70
Location: Boston, MA

2006 XC70 Oil Pan Stuck on with The Right Stuff

Post by Taskmaster »

A few years back I had an oil pressure issue with our 2006 XC70 and when I removed and cleaned the oil pan I took the suggestion to use Permatex The Right Stuff as a substitute for the Volvo sealant for reinstallation. I really wish I hadn't because I'm having an issue again and for the life of me I can't get the pan to budge. Anyone have suggestions on what to try? The only ideas I have are:

1) To make a wedge from a 2x4 and try jacking it up between the frame and pan to see if it shifts the pan and breaks the seal

2) Use some nylon straps with the rubber coated hooks on the end. Secure the straps to a 2x4 and place the hooks in the holes for the oil cooler. Then with the 2x4 under a Jack, try jacking the car up and see if I can pull the seal on the pan.

I thought I'd ask and see if anyone has some better suggestions. Thanks guys.

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Post by MoVolvos »

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Pressure to break loose everything all at once will not do it. The surface area of the seal, entire seal is way too tight. Try buying a piece of copper pipe 1" or more. Flatten it and use the edge as a wedge pry it loose. Use a dead blow hammer to gently punch it into the seal.

The other method is to take a one inch putty knife with a strong handle and slowly wedge it between the seal with a dead blow hammer. Be careful of leaving too much damage / scaring to the block or pan.
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Taskmaster
Posts: 23
Joined: 1 July 2013
Year and Model: 2006 XC70
Location: Boston, MA

Post by Taskmaster »

Thanks for the reply. I ended up making an adapter plate to attach where the oil cooler was on the side of the pan and used two ratchet straps to pull on that. I also did the PCV box and the oil pressure warning is gone. I goofed one thing doing the PCV though and I'm hoping it's what's causing my new issue. I'm getting a code for cylinder 4 misfire and random cylinder misfire. When I took out the PCV box I mistakenly removed what seemed to be a grounding connection right above the PCV box. It is round with a wire attached and a bolt through the center. When reassembling I think I started the bolt by hand, got called away and never wrenched it down. Could that poor connection result in a misfire? Does anyone know the name of that connection from the location above the PCV box and my description? Any chance I'll be able to reach that bolt with the intake still on or will it need to come off again? The car isn't at my house so I can't immediately check it. Thanks.

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Post by abscate »

It sounds a bit like that is the knock sensor(s). They need to be torqued correctly, not too tight
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Taskmaster
Posts: 23
Joined: 1 July 2013
Year and Model: 2006 XC70
Location: Boston, MA

Post by Taskmaster »

Yes, looking up the knock sensor that is definitely it. Will the intake manifold need to come out to get to that bolt? I looked up the torque as 20Nm. Thanks a ton!

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Post by XC70Rider »

The one to the far right can be done with the manifold left on but to reach the knock sensor right above the oil trap box I would presume the manifold does need removal. I replaced the elbow hose from the oil trap box with the manifold left on because it doesn't require a torque wrench.

Give it a shot with the manifold left on and let us know how it went.

Taskmaster
Posts: 23
Joined: 1 July 2013
Year and Model: 2006 XC70
Location: Boston, MA

Post by Taskmaster »

I was able to get to the knock sensor with the intake still installed and got that set. It didn't correct my new issue. I'm still running rough with codes for cylinder 4 misfire and random cylinder misfire. I'm going to swap around the coil from 4 to see if the code follows the swap. The skipping/running rough with the misfires seemed to start about a mile into my test drive after doing the PCV box and oil pan. Any suggestions what else to check?

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