What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

[brunocerous]

Managed to change the oil in the '98 V70 without spilling a single drop on the driveway, but made up for it with an ATF drain and fill that got caught up in the iPD skid plate. It had been eight months since my last oil change, though only about 2,500 miles, and the oil was dark. Collected a sample to have analyzed.

Low-coolant light came on after driving to Staten Island to check on an S40 for my brother, so I topped that off and plan to go look for a leak.

[abscate]

Ground off another Boston to NY round trip in the T5, enjoying the cool AC and P80 seat the whole way

I’ve been skipping the 495 and inner loop traffic by catching the Commuter rail from the WORCESTER station. That also gives me two hours to do emails during that day trip.

STATEN island.... the drive-over borough. No one lives there anymore, it’s too crowded.

[raivis_rsn]

Over here you can follow along and watch over the inspectors shoulder. Really neat way to get to know about minor stuff that they don't bother putting in the protocol.

Same in Latvia. But here cars fail due to battery that's not seated properly or oil leak that's actually not an oil leak but leaking power steering fluid or coolant.

A loose battery will get you failed here aswell. It's 20 kg you don't want to come flying for nothing. Leaking PS will fall you as well, minor engine oil leaks won't though. In general anything to do with emissions or safety will fall you and most other things go by with a comment if they're minor.

You're right but at the time of inspection my left wheel bearing had a lot of play (cheap bearing) but that even wasn't mentioned in inspection summary. I think bad wheel bearing is more dangerous than bad headlight or loose battery. Isn't it?

[Richard_TD]

Insecure battery is a fail here too, as are oil leaks. The leaked oil has to spread to a certain size in a certain time to fail I think. I actually got an advisory for play in a wheel bearing last year, it turned out that the driveshaft nut wasn't properly tight- the same bearing (tightened) passed without comment this year.

Although all mainland UK test stations are supposed to work to the same standard there is of course quite a lot of variation, with some far too lenient and some far too strict. The one I use strikes a good balance. I've been going there for 30 years now so they know me and they know I'll fix anything they advise.

[Ocelot]

So yesterday was one of those days... I really dislike repairing my own car. I brought it to the diy-garage and started to work on replacing the cv-boot on the right axle (the larger one). Everything went fine, untill I replaced the bolt securing the axle in the wheelhub. Workplace manual states that the mentioned bolt should be fastened with 120 nm and then with 60°. I was nowhere near that point and it just snapped of. A friend of mine helped me get the bolt out and when we did, we noticed a difference in diameter and thread in comparison to the original one. Shame on you, SKF (I bought a SKF repair set). Then, when everything was put back together, we noticed that the inner cv joint sounded weird and had gotten an insane amount of play. We looked at eachother and thought how could this be? I've replaced a bunch of cv-boots in the past, and it's not pretty removing the cv-joint of the axle. The cv-joint came of with one good blow of the hammer and was replaced the same way.

We put the car on the ground and when I tried to drive, it just didn't move. Well, it did move a wee bit, but the right axle made a horrific sound. So... al that work (± 4 hours due to the broken bolt) was for nothing because I will be replacing the entire right axle soon. It seems that in the Netherlands you can't buy a inner cv-joint repair kit (the only one's available are the wheel side cv-joints).

Another funny thing: earlier that day I replaced the left tie rod end and I noticed this canister (see attachment). Can anyone tell me what it is and what it does? Is it the EVAP-canister?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/hSB51stxPkL5XcUu8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/nNs1PrF188jsqTkh9

[abscate]

Do you have a bolt or a nut on the axle on your 1998?

That sounds like too high a torque for the bolt style, you use a new bolt and torque to 50 Nm, lubricated

[bmdubya1198]

So yesterday was one of those days... I really dislike repairing my own car. I brought it to the diy-garage and started to work on replacing the cv-boot on the right axle (the larger one). Everything went fine, untill I replaced the bolt securing the axle in the wheelhub. Workplace manual states that the mentioned bolt should be fastened with 120 nm and then with 60°. I was nowhere near that point and it just snapped of. A friend of mine helped me get the bolt out and when we did, we noticed a difference in diameter and thread in comparison to the original one. Shame on you, SKF (I bought a SKF repair set). Then, when everything was put back together, we noticed that the inner cv joint sounded weird and had gotten an insane amount of play. We looked at eachother and thought how could this be? I've replaced a bunch of cv-boots in the past, and it's not pretty removing the cv-joint of the axle. The cv-joint came of with one good blow of the hammer and was replaced the same way.

We put the car on the ground and when I tried to drive, it just didn't move. Well, it did move a wee bit, but the right axle made a horrific sound. So... al that work (± 4 hours due to the broken bolt) was for nothing because I will be replacing the entire right axle soon. It seems that in the Netherlands you can't buy a inner cv-joint repair kit (the only one's available are the wheel side cv-joints).

Another funny thing: earlier that day I replaced the left tie rod end and I noticed this canister (see attachment). Can anyone tell me what it is and what it does? Is it the EVAP-canister?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/hSB51stxPkL5XcUu8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/nNs1PrF188jsqTkh9

Yup, that's your evap canister.

As for the axle bolt, do you have the large nut or the bolt? That torque value is the for nut. The bolt should not be over-torqued, it can snap very easily. The bolt should be torqued to 35 NM (25 ft. lbs.) + 90 degrees.

[Ocelot]

So yesterday was one of those days... I really dislike repairing my own car. I brought it to the diy-garage and started to work on replacing the cv-boot on the right axle (the larger one). Everything went fine, untill I replaced the bolt securing the axle in the wheelhub. Workplace manual states that the mentioned bolt should be fastened with 120 nm and then with 60°. I was nowhere near that point and it just snapped of. A friend of mine helped me get the bolt out and when we did, we noticed a difference in diameter and thread in comparison to the original one. Shame on you, SKF (I bought a SKF repair set). Then, when everything was put back together, we noticed that the inner cv joint sounded weird and had gotten an insane amount of play. We looked at eachother and thought how could this be? I've replaced a bunch of cv-boots in the past, and it's not pretty removing the cv-joint of the axle. The cv-joint came of with one good blow of the hammer and was replaced the same way.

We put the car on the ground and when I tried to drive, it just didn't move. Well, it did move a wee bit, but the right axle made a horrific sound. So... al that work (± 4 hours due to the broken bolt) was for nothing because I will be replacing the entire right axle soon. It seems that in the Netherlands you can't buy a inner cv-joint repair kit (the only one's available are the wheel side cv-joints).

Another funny thing: earlier that day I replaced the left tie rod end and I noticed this canister (see attachment). Can anyone tell me what it is and what it does? Is it the EVAP-canister?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/hSB51stxPkL5XcUu8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/nNs1PrF188jsqTkh9

Yup, that's your evap canister.

As for the axle bolt, do you have the large nut or the bolt? That torque value is the for nut. The bolt should not be over-torqued, it can snap very easily. The bolt should be torqued to 35 NM (25 ft. lbs.) + 90 degrees.

Oh wow, now I feel a bit dumb. I've checked it again and I was looking at the torque value of the nut and not the bolt. So, shame on me and not shame on SKF. Tomorrow I'll be replacing the right axle. Can anyone tell me if the axles are a weak point on these Volvos? I'm just curious.

By the way, do the EVAP canisters have a lifespan? Any way to check them if they operate properly?

[bmdubya1198]

Oh wow, now I feel a bit dumb. I've checked it again and I was looking at the torque value of the nut and not the bolt. So, shame on me and not shame on SKF. Tomorrow I'll be replacing the right axle. Can anyone tell me if the axles are a weak point on these Volvos? I'm just curious.

By the way, do the EVAP canisters have a lifespan? Any way to check them if they operate properly?

They have been known to cause a "pinging" noise in the axle, but that's if they loosen up. It's more common on P2s from what I've heard. Just torque it to spec and use blue loctite and you should be fine.

The EVAP canister isn't really something that tends to fail. If you have EVAP related issues, check the hoses first. It's not TOTALLY unheard of that the canister cracks, but it's unlikely.

[bmdubya1198]

Sold the GLT. Going to complete the sale tomorrow, but I feel like she's going to a good home. I've had the car almost 4 years (just a few weeks away from a full 4 years) and it was my first car, I'm definitely going to miss it. I'll tell the new owner to let me know when he decides to sell it!

The good to come out of it is that I'll have one more driveway space and I'll be able to get the R on the road full time as a daily driver. The AC evaporator is on the way, so I'll knock out that job within the next week or so, and I'll be ordering a Snabb intercooler tomorrow so I can finally fix the boost leak. Then to figure out those two codes that continue to haunt me...