2006 V70 ball joints

[GlennG2759]

In the Fall I'm going to redo my front end. I've seen several videos of different ways to attack the ball joints. Removing the whole knuckle (in which I'd do CA bushings) or doing them in place. Also are the CA bushings worth the trouble of pressing (I have access to a press) or should I replace arms, expensive. I can probably fabricate the tool for for punching the ball joints in. Anybody whose DIY'ed these I'd appreciate your opinion. Also are there any mid priced CA's worth looking into, I see a lot of manufacturer's make these. Thanks in advance. Glenn

[oragex]

For the CA, if you want to press them in, you also need adapters. Not difficult to make your own from hardware piping.
If you can do it, I would definitely recommend buying the genuine bushings from Tascaparts.com (or similar). The two bushings will set you about $50/arm, so a total of $100 for both arms and you ride on genuine. Ask Volvo for confirmation but I believe for your alloy arm you have the #31360784 for the small rear one and #9465971 for the front one. I had these in my hand and these are clearly different than Lemforder bushings, much stronger and should last forever. Small warning, with these fresh genuine bushings the control arm is really difficult to press down when hooking back the lower strut bolts. It will take perhaps two persons to push down on the hub while inserting a strut bolt

You don't mention how many miles on the car, but I have to say, usually the genuine ball joints (made by Lemforder for Volvo) last long time, not like other cars. So I'd order new perhaps. but I'll turn first the rod on the old ones to feel for any play, before replacing it. Even if it's easy to turn but has not play, it should be still good for longtime as long as the rubber boot is not worn. Be aware that the torx for the ball joint is T40 rather than the T30 mentioned on some DIY on forums

Don't forget to buy new spring seats if never replaced, Sachs or Rein/CRP

This is a video with the front suspension www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxC9Ek9HhGI

[- Pete -]

Are you having steering abnormalities?
Just curious what is prompting you to “redo the front end”.

I’ve always just left the ball joint bolted to the control arm. Then back out the two 13mm bolts from the knuckle. Using a heavy duty ratchet strap or come-along, tie the distal end of both control arms together. You’ll then ratchet them together. This essentially acts as a separating force on the ball joint (pulling on it down & outward out of the knuckle). With tension on the strap, take a chisel & hammer (or air hammer) & fully separate the ball joint from the knuckle.

Getting the bottom bolt freed from the control arm, back the nut off so it’s flush with the top of the bolt. Use a brass hammer & smack the nut & the ball joint will fall out.

I’ve never used a fancy tool to put ball joints back into knuckles on these cars. I clean up the pocket, get it lined up with the 2 bolt holes and then cinch the bolts uniformly. I suppose it wouldn’t hurt to use a deep socket to smack it up into the pocket, I’ve just never done it that way.

If it was me, I’d make darn sure the control arms/bushings are done/worn out before attacking anything. I’m pretty sure ball joint failures are less common. I’m also pretty sure that cheap ball joints are not a good idea on these.

[ionianp2]

I removed the wheel knuckle. I used a ratchet strap and tied it across the subframe, along with a pry bar. If you don’t have access to power tools a 10 lb slide hammer is more than enough to take out the ball joints. As for the nut, you could heat it up if it’s stubborn.

I would stick with OEM (lemforder for ball joints, BOGE or Volvo for CA bushings). I put the new bushings in the freezer (metal contraction) a couple of hours so that I could get them in effortlessly. Volvo’s ball joint tool can make the process easier.

As for the bushings, the rear one can be easily pressed in with a press you can rent at any auto parts store. The front one you will have to fabricate an adaptor as folks have mentioned. Or you can take it to a local mechanic and have him press it on for cheap.

I did my suspension work last year and was very happy with the results.