Can you check a timing belt without taking it off?

[Durenol]

1. Where are you located?

Eastern MA

2. How many miles are on the vehicle &/or has the timing belt/tensioner/idler/serp belt ever been replaced?

It just passed 48K and I'm pretty sure all belt related parts are still original from the factory.

[- Pete -]

There was a time in my life I felt like that too. Granted I've always had a driveway, garage or flat spot I could work on vehicles. There's very few tasks on these vehicles that you truly need a lift for. There's some tasks I honestly prefer not using a lift for.

Anyhow, taking the top timing cover off takes all of 20 seconds. Have a good look at the belt, use a mirror to look at the ribbed side. Post pictures if you are unsure.

If it were me and I were in your shoes (and was concerned about it) right now, I'd put JUST a new belt on it now. Then when you hit 75-80k change out the whole works.

48k is incredibly low.

[vtl]

It's not the belt that fails, it is usually a tensioner. Or the water pump if it was not replaced along with the belt.

I would say, t-belt on 5 cyl Volvo engine is an easier job than the brakes. And the brakes are not hard at all.

[- Pete -]

Correct, I tried to explain that a little earlier in the thread, thanks for reiterating that. It's an important point.

Typically it’s not a good idea to replace just the belt. Even though the tensioner/idler are 12-13 years old, they don’t really care about years. Just how many miles they’ve been run. 48k is a little past half-life (in my book).

I forgot to mention something else. I know there is a pretty substantial Volvo following on Facebook. I’m not on social media (unless this forum counts) at all, but it’s pretty active. If you need help doing the job, don’t be ashamed to ask for help here or on FB. I, & probably plenty others, would be happy to lend hands, advice, tools, and a place to do it if you were nearby.

[oragex]

I too am stumped by that long PZEV belt change interval. Why does/did Volvo had to specify such long interval, any way ? Just because the engine had different emissions ? I see no link between emissions and belt wear..

Just going to throw out my random thought, either is some marketing gimmick, or were they forced by some local regulations. I don't think these belts were designed to take 150K miles in the worst driving conditions, with some safety margin. While the belts don't look that beaten up at 100K miles, some certainly do have cracks to them - I would imagine by 150K miles these will either look like great-grandparent's forehead or are already snapped. While there is always a small margin, 150K miles would be really on the edge. Plus, it always depends how spirited is the car driven, very hot or cold climate, etc. On a beaten up R I wouldn't wait too long after 100K miles to replace the belt

This is a crack on my original belt with 100K miles 11y when I did replace it - the car was gently driven by it's first owner. It is only a surface crack, the belt would still keep going for a while, but it does show it's age at only 66% of the PZEV change interval
.

[vtl]

Now fear: in Europe the same belt P/N is due to replacement at 120 kkm. That's only 80 kmiles.

[Rattnalle]

Now fear: in Europe the same belt P/N is due to replacement at 120 kkm. That's only 80 kmiles.

On the P2s in Europe it's 160' km -2004 then 180' km 2005-.

[vtl]

120 kkm in Eastern Europe.

[jimmy57]

Timing belts are not good for guessing. EPDM rubber has made cracking less likely to occur so cracking is no guide. Driving easy and slow is not as good as higher revs as low revs and the tight-loose cycling be worse. Higher speed gives the cams more inertia. Heat quickens the death. Oil leaks have impact. The worst is a good, no cracks, not oily, plain painted text that is not smeared, quiet rollers and the current tension is right in the middle of the range and the belt lost three teeth. Same scenario but the belt has the core fiber broken and fibers are hanging out at break point. Don't inspect, if in doubt change. If 10 years old change even though Volvo and other manufacturers took the chance that the belt would go 15/150 in california. Companies take some chance knowing that most will be fine some will get goodwill warranty and others will fix it and never think of contacting manufacturer about a car that is 13 1/2 years old.

[Durenol]

Anyhow, taking the top timing cover off takes all of 20 seconds.

On an 07? The videos I've seen all show taking off the swaybar across the engine compartment as well as disconnecting the engine coolant tank and some other stuff before they even get to the cover. Taking stuff off looks like something I can manage since it appears to be just bolts and screws, but I worry about putting them back on especially the swaybar since often these things need to be torqued back down to a specific lbs/ft and I don't have anything for that.

I would say, t-belt on 5 cyl Volvo engine is an easier job than the brakes.

Easy for someone with their own empty driveway and a garage full of tools perhaps. There's some panel/pulley thing down behind the passenger's wheel according to the videos. There's basically no way I can get to that.

48k is incredibly low.

Sorta. It's mostly ultra short trips though, less than 2mi, so it's not as good as it seems on paper. This car is basically the errand-mobile.