Re-visiting jacking locations

Mr. Detail · Post by **Mr. Detail** » 26 Aug 2019, 09:05

Heh guys;
I planned to change out both left and right front sway bar links on my 2002 V70 and attempt to do the rear brakes.
I do not own a hydraulic jack so I had planned to get enough height (I hope) with my bumper jack. if that is possible,
do the attached jacking pad locations look to be correct?

Post by **BlackBart** » 26 Aug 2019, 10:34

Others here have been lifting P2s a lot longer than me, but your mention of "bumper jack" makes me a bit nervous. You're probably aware there is no real bumper, it's all plastic bumper covers and multiple plastic undertrays. Any kind of high lift jack or hook jack is going to smash plastic or rip the bumper right off. You need to get something that pushes up on frame rails or subframe mounts or the factory jack points under the sills. I hate flimsy factory jacks, but if you can get one side high enough to get a jack stand in a solid place, that might work.

Post by **oragex** » 26 Aug 2019, 13:44

Perhaps he means the spare jack ? At the very least, a jack stand is needed - but two is better for the end links because lifting one wheel only will cause quite some force on the link

Jack points www.youtube.com/watch?v=0gtY-IZQgfw

As for the link, the upper bolt is tough to undo while the lower one grab right away the grinder and chop it off - don't even try with the tiny torx bit - it will torn . Try Lemforder for the parts, of perhaps Meyle HD (for this part only) www.youtube.com/watch?v=3lWmPt56qn8

Mr. Detail · Post by **Mr. Detail** » 27 Aug 2019, 04:11

Yes, I meant to say the spare jack. I understand the lift points that are built in to the body/frame of the car on each side.
I just wanted to be sure where specifically I place the jack stands.

Mr. Detail · Post by **Mr. Detail** » 27 Aug 2019, 05:31

Also it looks like I won't be able to use my friends air impact wrench for this job. I did not realize about the torx imbedded
within the threaded portion.

Georgeandkira · Post by **Georgeandkira** » 27 Aug 2019, 06:15

The emergency jack included with our cars is so spartan that nobody has even thunk of a good nickname for it. "The Screw Hinge of Death and Disfigurement" comes to mind.

Get a floor jack from the middle of Harbor Freight's line-up if need be and 2 stands. Sears (yes, there's one near me) still offers their jack with stands boxed set.

Chocking a rear wheel is smart to do.

As mentioned, raise and jack stand both sides of the front as lifting only one side sends BIG TWIST to the other side and will bind that link.

I use the round disc shaped mounting point just rear of the front well for the stands. You can use a suitable surface on the subframe as well.

Post by **oragex** » 27 Aug 2019, 07:33

A good impact 'may' actually work because of the speed the nut may unscrew without holding the stud with a torx bit. Worth trying it first, just be aware that the dust boot may get torn so then you have no choice but to replace the link

Post by **abscate** » 27 Aug 2019, 10:23

Mr. Detail wrote: 27 Aug 2019, 05:31 Also it looks like I won't be able to use my friends air impact wrench for this job. I did not realize about the torx imbedded
within the threaded portion.

Put pressure on the link end to squeeze it and the impact will usually zip it off, No damage if it doesn't.

Post by **BlackBart** » 27 Aug 2019, 11:25

Georgeandkira wrote: 27 Aug 2019, 06:15 "The Screw Hinge of Death and Disfigurement" comes to mind.

^^^ this

Post by **xHeart** » 27 Aug 2019, 12:35

abscate wrote: 27 Aug 2019, 10:23
Mr. Detail wrote: 27 Aug 2019, 05:31 Also it looks like I won't be able to use my friends air impact wrench for this job. I did not realize about the torx imbedded
within the threaded portion.
Put pressure on the link end to squeeze it and the impact will usually zip it off, No damage if it doesn't.

Remove and replace one end-link at a time for personal safety and ease, i.e. complete passenger side first before starting on driver's side.