2007 S40 cranks, sputters, won't run

bob-in-va · Post by **bob-in-va** » 28 Jul 2019, 17:25

2007 S40 T5, 6 speed Turbo AWD
Cranks, sputters, won't start

My battery died and after recharging, it cranks but won't start. It had been running fine before.

I have done the following:
Replaced battery in key fob, although the original battery was 3.2V
Pulled key out, waited 5 minutes, disconnected neg battery cable
Waited 15 minutes, shorted loose neg cable to positive cable for one minute
Turned key to Ign Position II, reconnected neg battery lead
Info system reports 3 keys are programmed for the car, I have all three keys
Gas is present at Schrader valve on fuel rail, but not smelling gas when it cranks
Cranks, but won't start, but now sometimes sputters when first turning the key
Connected Innova 3100 OBDII coder reader, fuse to port was blown
Replaced fuse, scan runs and no codes or freeze frame data are retrieved, engine light is off
I also used the "reset battery" function in the code reader
Under system tests, the code reader pulls the model and VIN

Questions:
1) Can I use the code reader or info system to confirm key fob is recognized? It seems if it sputters, it should be.
2) Can I use the code reader or info system to determine if the immobilizer is active, would it still crank and sputter?
3) While it was sitting for a while and the battery died, the sunroof vents plugged and I got some water on the passenger floor. It is dried up now, is there any thing under there that could be responsible?
4) Could the injectors not be getting signal, despite gas on fuel rail?
5) Is there a quick easy way to check for voltage to the plugs (ECM pin?), short of pulling one for a spark test?
6) Should I shoot some ether in the intake? I have the air filter out, should be getting plenty of air. It seems if it sputters, it should have spark, but perhaps the fuel flow is inadequate.

projectsmorol · Post by **projectsmorol** » 29 Jul 2019, 08:06

Try putting the key in and turning it to the 1 position and leave it there for a couple of minutes. Then move it to the 2 position and leave it there for a couple of minutes and then try starting it. Position 1 couple of minutes, Position 2 couple of minutes, and then start. All without
turning the key back to off.

bob-in-va · Post by **bob-in-va** » 29 Jul 2019, 18:11

Thanks for your response. I tried this with no change in behavior, so I followed up with a shot of ether. The engine runs as long as the ether stream is active, even revving with the gas pedal a bit. As soon as the ether stops, the engine dies. Is there some ECM control over the fuel pump or injectors that would not also inhibit the ignition system? I did not think the 2004+ models had the fuel shutoff under an impact, but this starts to look like something along those lines. I have a wiring diagram, so I will ponder over that. Any suggestions will be well received!!!

bob-in-va · Post by **bob-in-va** » 01 Sep 2019, 18:53

Updated symptoms: I checked for common voltage to the injection valves and also checked one which is pulsing. At this point I went back to the fuel rail. The previous pressure on the fuel rail was a red herring, there is no pressure now. It must have had some residual pressure when I checked it, which might explain why it was sputtering.

I have power at the fuse for the fuel pump relay and at the input to the relay, but did not seem to be getting power through the relay. Not sure why the relay may not be getting a signal to close, so I jumpered across the contacts (pin 3-5) and the pump did not run. It seems the next step is to pull the back seat and investigate connections at the Fuel Pump Control Module and Fuel Pump. Is there anything I can check before pulling the back seat out?

bob-in-va · Post by **bob-in-va** » 02 Sep 2019, 17:03

OK, I have pulled the back seat and have access to the Fuel Pump Control Module (FPCM).
Another red herring; I get power through the relay and into the FPCM (Grn/Wht pin 2) when cranking, I thought it should have been there with "key on" also. I have 2 ohms between 4/5, indicating the pump winding is intact, but I have not tested it by applying voltage.
I do not have output power from the FPCM to the pump on 4 (Grn-Org) and 5 (Bk-Red) when cranking.
There are 2 other input wires to the FPCM. One is on Pin 1 (Wht-Bk) from the ECM, and the other is on pin 3 (Bk-Org). Would missing signals on these other 2 lines prevent it from starting?
I am thinking the problem may be in this FPCM.

bob-in-va · Post by **bob-in-va** » 03 Sep 2019, 13:21

Resolution: OK, so I guess this module is sometimes called the PEM for Fuel Pump Electronic Module? It is odd that in my Volvo wiring diagram (TP 3999202), in the "Control modules Overview of locations" on pg 34, it does not identify the location or acronym for this module; although it appears in the component list and in the diagrams.
I removed the PEM and disassembled it, appearing quite pristine on the inside. I looked up datasheets for as many of the internal components as I needed to determine how the +12 V coming in is regulated down to +5 V for the internal logic, also sketching out a partial schematic. While disassembled, I planned to probe the +5V and check the pulse train on pin 1 from the ECM to make a final call this module was defective. Once I got in place with my meter probe, I told my wife to turn it over briefly and wouldn't you know - it started. I recorded reference voltages while it was running, to be sure I had a baseline for "Normal". Then shut it off and started it several times for due diligence. Go Figure. Now on to the CV axles which were the alligators I set out to kill before having to clean the swamp. I guess I don't dare reassemble it until I am done with the axles and have test drove it a few times.

Post by **kranz** » 03 Sep 2019, 17:22

I seem to recall there was a warranty recall to replace the PEM. I want to say in certain climates it was subject to failure.

bob-in-va · Post by **bob-in-va** » 03 Sep 2019, 21:29

Thanks. That's a good suggestion. I saw reference on another forum for the PEM recall issued in 2008; the recall even covered my year. However, I entered my VIN on the Volvo site and there are no open recalls for my vehicle. If it indeed applied, it was probably already addressed. I bought the car second hand. Took it out for a road test and it seems to be holding. Started right up and ran smooth for about 45 minutes.

-Bob