Temp gauge fluctuating even after replacing thermostat and CTS

[wizechatmgr]

Gonna try this today. Stat and sensor replaced last fall. Not sure if OEM. Also had water pump and timing belt replaced 2 mos. ago so naturally coolant was involved. I haven't noticed any fluctuations since and only topped it once. But after you mentioned the air, I did just run the heat the past couple mornings/evenings.

Been having random electrical issues as well. Replaced battery 2 days ago.

Thanks for tip on Stat.

I'd suggest having that alternator checked as well as the hot wire going to the fuse block. Alternator could have toasted battery from letting AC through the system - would cause all kinds of weird stuff to happen.

[RB3]

Still no luck with the guage.
Gonna get the codes read I guess. Should I replace stat or sensor just to rule out? Maybe after codes?

Could the temp and possible fuel thing be related? Hesitation on acceleration and bogs if I coast. Almost like I'm braking. Thanks in advance

[RB3]

Original issues: Lacking power. Hesitation. Idle surges.
Then Temp gauge fluctuating below normal. Fan running after turning it off.
Hard Starts.
Started by replacing battery. Helped with starts.
Removed thermostat and drove it. Gauge still fluctuated.
Cleaned throttle body. Didnt notice much difference. Note ETS warning light never came on during several weeks of the original hesitation.
24 hours after cleaning ETS appeared. Ugh.
but needed to replace the CTS. Did that 4 days ago.
Temp gauge has been normal. Great!. It even seems to run better. No hesitations for few days. Seems like idle not hunting.
Then shortly after ETS warning lamp disappears. Coincidence? for 2 days.
But now reappeared again. 160,000

Mechanic was busy so didnt get in to have codes read and cleared. Can take to Auto store but they dont clear em.

lf Im not mistaken I believe this TB was replaced. But I dont see any labels white or yellow. might it be underneath. havent gotten a mirror out.

Still having electrical issue with license plate light. its on when hatch is open but goes out halfway down when closing. Any good electrical folks/shops in SF Bay Area? Don't think I'm up for that challenge.

Have a good Sunday all!

[erikv11]

This doesn't address everything but two comments:

(1) you can reset codes by disconnecting the battery
(2) the wiring bundle as it goes into the tailgate is almost certainly the problem for the rear light. The wires get frayed after so many open-close cycles. You can often see the problem wire(s) if you look at the wiring where it runs through the hong on the eft (driver's) side.

[RB3]

Thanks Eric. Forgot about disconnecting battery. Will do.

And alternator is on the list wizechat.

Its been driving ok for the most part. Couple hesitations. ETS went on and off and then came back on. Of course when I went to have codes read ALL lights cleared! Literally on the 5 mile drive. Got a good laugh anyway.

Now ETS popped back on but check engine off. Temp still in normal range after a week of driving.

First and second glance revealed nothing obvious on wires for rear lights. Gooey insulation.

I don't know much about cars. But I like learning. And don't mind trying the easier stuff.

Thanks for the help and Happy Halloween