Easy Valve Ticking Question (for some)

Post by **abscate** » 01 Nov 2019, 10:32

I want to say the parameters for a good hot run are 15 minutes above 4000 rpm to get all the valves spun into a new place, and I think that was Volv-gospel from jimmy.

Post by **BlackBart** » 01 Nov 2019, 16:34

My understanding is "high mileage" oils have additives that swell seals and rubber, and can lead to other issues. I've been told to avoid them.

I agree with others above that the ticking isn't a big deal. Assume the least level of catastrophe and do the simplest, cheapest corrections first. I might run some good injector cleaner (Chevron etc) through a couple of tankfuls, give it some good highway driving, and see what it sounds like. If things are a bit gummed up, some injector cleaner, good detergent gas, and good detergent oil would be my choices.

Post by **Clemens** » 01 Nov 2019, 18:05

I ran Mobil 1 0w-30 in my R for a year. That cured the ticking. Then I switched to 5W-40 since I don't drive it in winter anymore. The standard T5 uses 5-40 or 10-40, depending on what I have in stock.

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 01 Nov 2019, 18:17

Yeah, I don't like high mileage oil because of the seal swellers. Had a cam seal blow out on my cousin's car after using that stuff... left us stranded in the middle of nowhere in Georgia near the Florida state line. I wish I had thought to pull off the timing cover and pop the seal back in while we were at the Flying J for for 8 hours... I thought it was the turbo drain gasket, we didn't figure out it was the cam seal until the following weekend when we finally filled up the oil and looked for the leak, then saw it totally blown out upon pulling the cover.

Anyway, moral of the story... be careful with HM oils.

Post by **Eddystone** » 01 Nov 2019, 18:49

abscate wrote: 01 Nov 2019, 10:32 I want to say the parameters for a good hot run are 15 minutes above 4000 rpm to get all the valves spun into a new place, and I think that was Volv-gospel from jimmy.

Okay. Fifteen minutes at 4000 rpm. Just remember: Albany is not the other side of the world from Philly, and I will hunt you down if it blows up. Old dogs like me hardly ever tickle 4000 rpm even when we're in a big hurry.

Post by **MoVolvos** » 01 Nov 2019, 19:42

bmdubya1198 wrote: 01 Nov 2019, 08:46
MoVolvos wrote: 31 Oct 2019, 17:19 Agree, and the manufacturer recommended viscosity is always for when the car was new. Even they don't know how the engine well fair in real day to day abuse overtime. Most of my cars I've purchased over the years were way over 120K. In the last 7 years I've discovered a good 5W-40 should cover almost all cars except for perhaps a 2019 vehicle.

This year I decided to try Mobil again and my test bed 03 Odyssey's lower end groaned and really complained. Back to Rotella T6 5W40 and all is quiet again. Use either a 0W40 or 5W40 but don't go with back to the 10W30. The additive package is not good enough for the winter nor heat of summer.
I actually used Castrol 5w40 in my GLT the last oil change I did, and that was my favorite. It ran great, the least ticking on cold starts and it ran beautifully otherwise. No consumption issues either.
Rotella is good, I've just been wary of it since it's no longer rated for gas engines. However, that shouldn't be a problem unless you're burning a ton of oil (like me )... then it can damage the cat. Otherwise I think it's perfectly fine for gas engines. 5w40 is a good grade for most cars.

The Castrol 5W40 should be fine. Was the oil at Acura when I worked there 1995 ~ 96 and still maybe the bulk tank oil at Honda. According to Rotella the formulation did not change. You can research this online as I did. They removed the SN rating to make way for the Gas Truck oil which has the higher API SN PLUS rating. Just cashing in on a proven product.
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https://www.amazon.com/Shell-Rotella-Sy ... op?ie=UTF8

Post by **abscate** » 01 Nov 2019, 20:50

Eddystone wrote: 01 Nov 2019, 18:49
abscate wrote: 01 Nov 2019, 10:32 I want to say the parameters for a good hot run are 15 minutes above 4000 rpm to get all the valves spun into a new place, and I think that was Volv-gospel from jimmy.
Okay. Fifteen minutes at 4000 rpm. Just remember: Albany is not the other side of the world from Philly, and I will hunt you down if it blows up. Old dogs like me hardly ever tickle 4000 rpm even when we're in a big hurry.

I went years without hitting 4000. Rpm. I cruise the T5 at 2500 rpm/ 65 mph.

It does seem horrible doing the periodic 4000 rpm howl but it is good for the valves.

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 02 Nov 2019, 08:32

If it blows after revving over 4k RPM, it's due to neglect after years of low revs!

I rev mine to redline regularly, it's good for it. That's why it doesn't feel like I'm straining it. Although it's weird... I didn't do that too often in my GLT because it sounded like it was straining... maybe it's the quieter R exhaust that makes it sound less painful.
At least I'm better with it than my Miata... that thing sees 7,000 RPM on the regular

The engine is MADE to do that, let it breathe!

Post by **June** » 02 Nov 2019, 09:10

Actually the dealer told me years ago 5,000 rpm for 5 minutes under load ac off. That was for the 1998 V70 5cyl turbo that had problems with valves sticking causing hard starts and engine vibration. It would then be fine for 6 months. I have done just that with every Volvo since about every 6 months after a fresh oil change. So my current 2004 S80 T6 has undergone this process without issue. In fact the S80 T6 is so smooth and quiet it is almost not noticable that the engine is turning 5,000 rpm.

The 960/S90 manual had a section stating if the engine ticks when starting cold, it may require up to 20 minutes to subside. Do not exceed 2,000 rpm until quiet to prevent engine damage. If it exceeds 20 minutes tow in for service. I don't recall seeing that information in the T6 owner's manual. June

WhatAmIDoing · Post by **WhatAmIDoing** » 02 Nov 2019, 13:34

My 98 S70 T5 has had that ticking noise for at least the last 9 years (according to PO + tie I've owned it). Had a chat with Robert about it. He said unless your car takes more than a second to build oil pressure or you have the low oil pressure light coming on, just ignore it and give it the old Italian tune up once in a while. He said same goes for the oil sump O-rings. Unless you are getting a low oil pressure warning, not worth doing.

I've tried oil grades from 0w40 to 5w30 to 10w40. Nothing quiets down that ticking. HM oils are okay if you stick to reputable brands like Mobil or Castrol. Do NOT go out and put Supertech HM in your engine.