Question about IPD control arms?
- GlennG2759
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Question about IPD control arms?
I'm in the process of deciding whether to go with IPD's HD control arms and ball joints versus Lemforder. Has anybody used the IPD's and put a considerable amount of mileage on them. How have they held up and what's your opinion of them or the Lemforder? Thanks, Glenn
- oragex
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I really wish to know the answer as well. I pressed in genuine Lemforder bushings - the small rear ones, and it got very soft in less than 1 year. Now, those were individually sold and 'might' be different than the ones Lemforder puts in their full control arms.
As for the Ipd HD it may be too soon for 3-4 years update reviews.
However, my recommendation is to try going with genuine Volvo bushings sold individually and see if your local Volvo dealer - or some European garage, may want to press them in. Your should be good to get both bushings for under $80 per side online (perhaps even cheaper), and a small garage should do the job for under $100 or so - basically almost the same price as a full Lemforder/Ipd arm pair but with genuine bushings. Side note: the Volvo genuine bushings sold individually are NOT Lemforder. They look different and are really stiff - to the point of causing a rather stiff suspension until they soften up a little.
As for the Ipd HD it may be too soon for 3-4 years update reviews.
However, my recommendation is to try going with genuine Volvo bushings sold individually and see if your local Volvo dealer - or some European garage, may want to press them in. Your should be good to get both bushings for under $80 per side online (perhaps even cheaper), and a small garage should do the job for under $100 or so - basically almost the same price as a full Lemforder/Ipd arm pair but with genuine bushings. Side note: the Volvo genuine bushings sold individually are NOT Lemforder. They look different and are really stiff - to the point of causing a rather stiff suspension until they soften up a little.
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
- chris11211
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I have both of them from IPD at over 2000 miles. There's really not much to them, but they claim to have more virgin rubber on the arms and a better grease and silicone boot; both an upgrade to OE especially up north. They also told me their parts are backed by lifetime warranty as well, but I haven't gotten to that point yet. Only grip was the screws for the ball joints did not come pre-applied with loctite like everyone else.
And if you're not in an urgent spot i'd give them a call and see if they're gonna have a black friday sale storewide. Otherwise, get lemford from fcp, if you live in the south, and have that lifetime backed replacement program.
I don't see the point in getting new bushings and nagging a shop to press it in for you. I'm guessing you would have to go under, remove the arms, go to the shop and pay the guy, then install it. As opposed to just getting the whole arm and do it then and there and sell the old one's for scrap along with rotors and ball joints. This of course is assuming you're a DIYer.
None of them are a bad choice at all, that's the problem. I just did IPD's because I am the one who did the work myself and have seen the rubber just go after one winter in NY on a car that lived in FL. However, it was 13 yr old arms so I have no idea how long those were left completely shot by the previous owners.
I just looked at prices. IPD has a sale on the arms with FREE endlinks at 250. While FCP has Lem's for 200, and MeyleHD for 225 which I bet has more virgin rubber.
I'd go for IPD at the moment if you could use endlinks.
And if you're not in an urgent spot i'd give them a call and see if they're gonna have a black friday sale storewide. Otherwise, get lemford from fcp, if you live in the south, and have that lifetime backed replacement program.
I don't see the point in getting new bushings and nagging a shop to press it in for you. I'm guessing you would have to go under, remove the arms, go to the shop and pay the guy, then install it. As opposed to just getting the whole arm and do it then and there and sell the old one's for scrap along with rotors and ball joints. This of course is assuming you're a DIYer.
None of them are a bad choice at all, that's the problem. I just did IPD's because I am the one who did the work myself and have seen the rubber just go after one winter in NY on a car that lived in FL. However, it was 13 yr old arms so I have no idea how long those were left completely shot by the previous owners.
I just looked at prices. IPD has a sale on the arms with FREE endlinks at 250. While FCP has Lem's for 200, and MeyleHD for 225 which I bet has more virgin rubber.
I'd go for IPD at the moment if you could use endlinks.
- abscate
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If you can venture up from the deep South of Route 32, Ive got a press waiting for you.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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xHeart
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Our 2001 V70XC is running on Meyle HD LCA, Lemforder balljoint, and Meyle HD end links with more than 45,000 miles -- suspension overhaul March 2013.GlennG2759 wrote: ↑03 Nov 2019, 06:41 I'm in the process of deciding whether to go with IPD's HD control arms and ball joints versus Lemforder. Has anybody used the IPD's and put a considerable amount of mileage on them. How have they held up and what's your opinion of them or the Lemforder? Thanks, Glenn
--
Golden-German Shepherd | 2021 XC90 T6 INSCRIPTION (Nexa) | 2020 V60CC (Frska) | 2013A XC90 (Lktra)
Past: Golden Retriever | 2001 V70XC | 1997 Volvo 854 | 1989 Volvo 740 GL | 1979 Volvo 240
Golden-German Shepherd | 2021 XC90 T6 INSCRIPTION (Nexa) | 2020 V60CC (Frska) | 2013A XC90 (Lktra)
Past: Golden Retriever | 2001 V70XC | 1997 Volvo 854 | 1989 Volvo 740 GL | 1979 Volvo 240
- ljsommar1
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I was faced with the same dilemma 8+ years and around 90K miles ago. l went with IPD controls arms and end links. The control arms held up well but one bushing was very slightly torn, so I pressed in new bushings before inspection at 220K miles.
IPD’s endlinks are very difficult to counter hold so I would not recommend them.
IPD’s endlinks are very difficult to counter hold so I would not recommend them.
- - Pete -
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I apologize as I don't have much for miles on them, but recently did Meyle HD control arms (Turkish), Meyle ball joints (Turkish) from FCP on the V70R. I think it was about $225 for arms & $40 for ball joints. I don't mind doing the manual labor part, rather enjoy it honestly. So figured with lifetime guarantee & decent reviews I can't really go wrong.
Have your struts completely out of the way for this project. It goes pretty quick. I just mark where my knuckle attaches to the lower 2 holes on the strut so I get my camber right when putting it back together. Mark nearest the top hole, that's the one the alignment shops use to set camber. I usually just smack with a chisel or scribe a line with a pick so I have a nice defined line I can re-line up.
As far as the whole pressing the ball joints in, I have two presses but just for kicks, I decided pressing was overkill so just clamped the knuckles in a soft jawed vise & tapped the ball joints in with a socket & hammer. Leave the protector on the boot if you do this. Line it all up good & tap away. Couple ways to skin a cat here.
Have your struts completely out of the way for this project. It goes pretty quick. I just mark where my knuckle attaches to the lower 2 holes on the strut so I get my camber right when putting it back together. Mark nearest the top hole, that's the one the alignment shops use to set camber. I usually just smack with a chisel or scribe a line with a pick so I have a nice defined line I can re-line up.
As far as the whole pressing the ball joints in, I have two presses but just for kicks, I decided pressing was overkill so just clamped the knuckles in a soft jawed vise & tapped the ball joints in with a socket & hammer. Leave the protector on the boot if you do this. Line it all up good & tap away. Couple ways to skin a cat here.
2001 V70XC 200k
2004 V70 AWD 174k
2004 V70R M66 147k
2004 XC70 361k
1995 F250 7.3PSD 262k
2014 Ram 3500 DRW 116k
2004 V70 AWD 174k
2004 V70R M66 147k
2004 XC70 361k
1995 F250 7.3PSD 262k
2014 Ram 3500 DRW 116k
- Supergrunged
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I went through Re-Volv for my control arms, and upgraded to Poly bushings, where it appears they used Powerflex bushings. Re-Volv reuses old control arms, and pushes in OEM Volvo bushings, which are by far probably the best quality out there. Also Re-Volv was the cheapest at $200 for a set with OEM new bushings.
I would not go with Lemforder, for the simple reason of everything I get from them now, usually is burnt out in a year, since they have moved their production to China. I have a friend on them, with a coil over setup, and they're already shot.
I've never had any issues with Mayle products, and far as I can tell, most IPD branded stuff is rebranded Meyle
I would not go with Lemforder, for the simple reason of everything I get from them now, usually is burnt out in a year, since they have moved their production to China. I have a friend on them, with a coil over setup, and they're already shot.
I've never had any issues with Mayle products, and far as I can tell, most IPD branded stuff is rebranded Meyle
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