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Need help before I attack the valve body!

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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jinxd12
Posts: 31
Joined: 11 June 2018
Year and Model: 04 c70 conv LPT
Location: az

Need help before I attack the valve body!

Post by jinxd12 »

I have Xmas week off and want to attack the valve body or solenoid replacement in my 04 C70 convertible.

I have been reading for researching for about 2 weeks with rims of saved info.I am down to my final questions that I haven't seen addressed anywhere.

Should I replace the valve body and solenoids or skip the valve body and just replace the solenoids.

The car has been sitting for 6 months, finally just cleaned it up nice and shiny again, and makes me want to just get it done.

I have read all of precopsters posts, but he didn't describe how he made the decision to go with the valve body each time.

jinxd12
Posts: 31
Joined: 11 June 2018
Year and Model: 04 c70 conv LPT
Location: az

Post by jinxd12 »

Welp, couldn’t wait!

I ordered the new B4 servo cover, currently the existing one is labeled 1ck or 1dk hard to tell.
I also ordered the Rostra solenoids, and the IPD transmission cooler O ring set. All the parts should be in by Monday.

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wizechatmgr
Posts: 1798
Joined: 12 January 2017
Year and Model: 1999 V70 XC AWD 2.4T
Location: Albany, NY area
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Post by wizechatmgr »

The valve body itself should never go bad - just the solenoids might.
Wisdom requires knowledge as a prerequisite, but knowledge can be developed due to a lack of wisdom.
In order to learn how to fix something, you must first learn how to break it.
1999 V70 XC AWD 2.4 T -- ~231k miles
1998 V70 2.4 NA -- ~184k miles

jinxd12
Posts: 31
Joined: 11 June 2018
Year and Model: 04 c70 conv LPT
Location: az

Post by jinxd12 »

That is what I have read, and didn't want to try cutting open the solenoids and saving a few dollars.

The only thing that will drive me crazy, is trying to refill and "burp" the coolant system. The way the thermostats are placed on these always gives me a hard time getting all the air out.

scot850
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Post by scot850 »

Raise the front of the car about 6" and place on stands. Put heater on max temp ( less of an issue on these cars with flow through coolant). Slowly fill the coolant. Stop from time to time and squeeze the upper radiator hose to help push air back through the system. Once full, fire the car up and let it get to temp to open the thermostat.

Some folk like to run the engine with the coolant tank cap off. I don't but that is my way.

Leave the car overnight and then remove coolant cap slowly and let air in. Most of the air trapped should now be removed.

Take the car for a short run and stop and check the level again once it has been at normal temp for a short time. Naturally I should have said take coolant (pre-mixed) with you!

Normally you should now be good, but check it next time once the engine has cooled. Carefully repeat the cap opening and fill again if needed.

Good luck!

Neil.

Once
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold

jinxd12
Posts: 31
Joined: 11 June 2018
Year and Model: 04 c70 conv LPT
Location: az

Post by jinxd12 »

Leave the car overnight and then remove coolant cap slowly and let air in. Most of the air trapped should now be removed.

This is what I have always done in the past with older 850's, didn't seem to work last time with this one. Its all about patience really, and sometimes with such a simple task it escapes me! I have never raised the car 6" so I will definitely give that a try this time.

jinxd12
Posts: 31
Joined: 11 June 2018
Year and Model: 04 c70 conv LPT
Location: az

Post by jinxd12 »

I replaced the solenoids today. I had a step by step I printed off of someone's DIY thread somewhere.

There were a few steps that didn't work for my car, and I had to remove both front subframe bolts, and pry the hell out of it to get the valve body cover removed.

Got to dark to finish putting everything back together. Tomorrow is B4 servo update and oil/coolant fill up.

I am going to try and drive it around a little bit, still trying to make myself buy the VIDA/DICE but the wife is putting the kabosh on it right now.

jinxd12
Posts: 31
Joined: 11 June 2018
Year and Model: 04 c70 conv LPT
Location: az

Post by jinxd12 »

Just an update...

I got the car all back together, fluids are all in. Took a little trip to the gas station, runs good except the Park to Reverse is banging in sometimes. Had a small leak at the connection to the transmission pan for the oil cooler, it didn’t say to replace that gasket in the directions. Had to go buy a gasket O ring kit. Good to go now.

I also didn’t permatex the valve body cover, It would have made a mess with the way I got the cover on and off. I bought the expensive gasket maker and traced out the cover. Cut it out with a razor blade. Good to go! Just took my time to make sure it was perfect.

I forgot to install the B4 servo update, and by the time I remembered I had all the transmission fluid filled.

Do I need to drain to do the update?

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