questions about estimate for broken front coil spring

Post by **abscate** » 15 Dec 2019, 05:39

Jack it up with blocks and chocks, then you can go into neutral once it’s on stands, on level ground.

I block up with timber as a safety if I am really working underneath because I like pancakes as a dish, not as an exercise.

Volvo says to use a new axle bolt, but (Insert <std.io.disclaimer>) 35Nm plus 90 is well under the elasticdeformation of an M10 bolt; I have re used them on occasion.

On the later cars, that bolt just holds the axle in place, other than generating an ABS error, a loose bolt won’t damage the splines, strut, or bearing hub.

Post by **cn90** » 15 Dec 2019, 10:03

- On a level surface, chock DIAGONAL wheel. So if you want to spin RF wheel, chock the LR wheel (on BOTH with fore and aft parts of the LR tire) while on neutral. You don't even need jack stand if the only purpose is spinning the wheel for checking, as soon as the floor jack lifts one wheel about 1" off the ground, good enough for spinning in neutral (search youtube).

- The axle bolt, yes: you can remove it with the car on your driveway. As mentioned before, sometimes the bolt works itself loose (don't ask me how that happens, idk). But I clean it well, apply one drop of Loctite and torque it as above and I am good. Just don't allow Loctite to get into the CV Joint itself.

enotslim · Post by **enotslim** » 15 Dec 2019, 16:05

Thanks. Already had both sides up but I understand about doing one at a time.

-Spinning wheels in neutral feel (wheel and coil spring) and sound the same. Smooth friction.
-No play on 12/6 o'clock test.
-3/9 o'clock test: right wheel (noisy side) moves with slight "bump". Left also moves slightly but smoothly without "bump". Very subtle difference.
-Left axle shaft is rusty. The right definitely was replaced 10/2018. Boots intact without grease leaks.
-Both ball joints are exposed with cracked covers and bushings are worn. I don't think the sound is a ball joint noise but I guess they still need attention.
-Leaking fluid seems to come from somewhere above and the CV joint boots don't have obvious defects.
-Other suspension parts look and feel OK to me when I grab, push and pull.

Seems that replacing the right (and maybe left) front bearing and both control arms is indicated. At 140,000 miles I guess a complete suspension rebuild, minus recently renewed parts, might be reasonable. Chasing down moans and groans individually might not be worth the small potential savings. Of course, I started down this path by returning to doing my own oil changes.

Post by **cn90** » 15 Dec 2019, 19:49

Look in XC90 forum, I just posted a DIY FRONT suspension for the 2005 XC90.
The S60 is almost identical except for minor differences.

All the parts, PVC Coupler trick is discussed in that DIY:

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=91985

enotslim · Post by **enotslim** » 28 Dec 2019, 23:26

After reading, planning, etc. I started to go after the wheel bearing but found what I think is a bad inner CV joint. Please see video. Should there be that much play? It's all in the inner cv joint. None in the outer joint, which leads me to think the difference isn't a good thing.

The gasket (or whatever it is) on the inner aspect of the steering knuckle is also broken with a piece displaced. I remember something about a "dust cover" in one video I've seen but this part doesn't seem to be discussed much.

The axle and bearing splines were well greased. The repairs I've seen and read about haven't done this. Is it common or recommended? I don't think it's CV joint grease. It's localized to the splines and the boot is intact.

This right, passenger side half axle appears to be the side replaced by an indie 14 months ago due to a cracked ABS ring. The ABS error was corrected but the invoice lists the left side as replaced. I don't remember the error code and laterality. A noise appearing to come from the right side developed soon after this repair but then disappeared. I didn't return to the indie because the noise came from the "other" side and disappeared. I will clarify with the indie. At this point I hardly care if the indie will do anything on warranty. Reassembling, taking to them and waiting isn't worth the trouble. I just want to know what happened. I would be happy it they provide replacement parts for me to install.

Post by **abscate** » 29 Dec 2019, 05:13

I’m not sure if that CV is broken. It will definitely move axially some thing like 2-3 cm by design. Is it making loud clonking noises when you twist it radially? Should feel firm and be quiet.

That ABS sensor that was touching the reluctant can be field fixed by putting a thin washer under the M6 bolt that holts it in. That lifts the sensor a bit away from the ring. The washer has to be metal asi think they ground three thstbolt. Clean area to be shiny.

My wheelbearings seem to last about150k miles on my cars in our climate. I’ve done 6 now, only one could I feel grittiness, the rest felt like new, but howled like banshees

enotslim · Post by **enotslim** » 29 Dec 2019, 06:50

abscate wrote: 29 Dec 2019, 05:13 ... Is it making loud clonking noises when you twist it radially? Should feel firm and be quiet. ...

The video shows me grabbing the outer cv boot and twisting "radially" to apply torque to the inner CV joint. I think this is what you mean. I immobilized the outer joint. Sounds pretty loud to me. Can you hear the audio? Torqueing the outer CV joint is firm and quiet.

Is axial motion due to action of the spline-on-spline interface of the outer and inner axle portions at the wheel bearing and transmission, respectively?

Post by **cn90** » 29 Dec 2019, 10:29

- My experience with many cars is: do not approach front suspension in bits and pieces after > 140K, you will be back again and again, wasting time.

- Spend some $700-$900 for a full front suspension (minus whatever was replaced recently): you can get quick struts, end links, control arms. Ball joints are a must bc your bj boot is gone...it is a matter of time until the ball falls out of the socket ---> deadly consequence.

- The wheel bearing can be done separately later. My experience of wheel bearing is that mine lasts about 160K-180K bc I am a conservative driver, avoiding sharp corner, pot holes, puddles etc.

- The axle spline has grease bc it comes from the CV joint, which is hollow.

- The ABS sensor, as abscate said, very very thin washer to create a tiny gap. Too much gap WILL be an issue but it is easy fix later.

enotslim · Post by **enotslim** » 30 Dec 2019, 13:15

cn90 wrote: 29 Dec 2019, 10:29 - My experience with many cars is: do not approach front suspension in bits and pieces after > 140K, you will be back again and again, wasting time.

- Spend some $700-$900 for a full front suspension (minus whatever was replaced recently):...

Sounds like good advice, thanks. I've been convincing myself I can do an entire front end suspension. Everything beyond replacing brake pads is new to me. Still uncertain about disassembling ball joints and about freeing the left/driver side axle from the transmission - that twist/push-pull/line-it-up/maybe it will just fall out thing. Everything else seems doable with patience and tools.

Post by **abscate** » 30 Dec 2019, 19:42

If it’s an around town sort of car, push the suspension off until Spring and I can give you a half day.

I can do it winter but then 35-40 F weather has to align with my schedule