What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

Post by **abscate** » 14 Dec 2019, 07:53

Right, that’s the problem, of course,

I’m only cleaning half the connector, the other side is causing heat, and reoxidosing the fuse blade

Does anyone make an abrasive file the same thickness as a fuse blade to solve this?

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 14 Dec 2019, 08:52

abscate wrote: 14 Dec 2019, 07:53 Does anyone make an abrasive file the same thickness as a fuse blade to solve this?

You might be able to fine a Jeweler or Watchmaker file that will fit. Filing is another band aid fix. It removes the top layer and make it more subject to corrosion.

A better option is to get a set of pin extractors, remove the terminal from the REM side and replace it. The tricky parts are figuring out which pin extractor to use, then sourcing a replacement terminal. However if succeed it is a permanent fix rather then a band aid fix.

Post by **E Showell** » 14 Dec 2019, 12:25

Why permanent fix? Why won't the new terminal just oxidize?

Post by **abscate** » 15 Dec 2019, 00:11

I would love to know root cause on this one. It’s the only car of 6 in the driveway that has this problem

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 15 Dec 2019, 01:07

E Showell wrote: 14 Dec 2019, 12:25 Why permanent fix? Why won't the new terminal just oxidize?

Permanent because the repair will out last the car.

abscate wrote: 15 Dec 2019, 00:11 I would love to know root cause on this one. It’s the only car of 6 in the driveway that has this problem

Step one: Pin Extractor set. These are the tools used to compress the retaining clip(s) so the terminal can be pulled out of the plastic block.

A lighted Loupe comes in handy. For peeking into the connector to see the clips.

Post by **abscate** » 15 Dec 2019, 06:07

When I pulled the REM fuses everyone had the black corrosion on them. My best guess is there is moisture in the rear left wheel well ( wagon) that exacerbates fuse corrosion.

I did have some on my P80 relays once, after 15 years , and cleaned them too, but that hasn’t recurred.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=80481&hilit=Albany&start=20#p434364

Post by **E Showell** » 15 Dec 2019, 12:58

We'll, thankfully the weather held out and bro and I did the rear pads and rotors on the V70R having tackled the front brakes last weekend. Brembo and Akebono ceramic pads. Won't be cleaning the wheels for a while.

New windshield cowl seals for Ruby Red and new wiper blades for the '99 V70 and a rear wiper for the R as well (which also got a new expansion tank cap). Coolant looked a little low last week and I didn't like the look of the residue I saw on the tank near the filler neck.

Post by **- Pete -** » 15 Dec 2019, 22:04

E Showell wrote: 15 Dec 2019, 12:58 Coolant looked a little low last week and I didn't like the look of the residue I saw on the tank near the filler neck.

Oophta x2.

1) That set of brakes set you back some pennies.
2) Keep a close eye on that coolant. Is this the same one you blew a head gasket on? Or was it a cracked sleeve? It’d be hard for me to not be doing compression & leakdown tests. What coolant did you run it it?

Post by **E Showell** » 16 Dec 2019, 08:34

Different engine. This is the replacement engine. Running Volvo coolant only. I'm thinking the coolant was evaporating out past a bad expansion tank cap seal.

The brakes weren't cheap, but the money I saved in DIY helped take a bit of the sting out. Plus, brakes are brakes. Can't do without 'em.

Post by **BlackBart** » 16 Dec 2019, 17:03

abscate wrote: 15 Dec 2019, 06:07 My best guess is there is moisture in the rear left wheel well ( wagon) that exacerbates fuse corrosion.

Do you think from above - glass seal....or from below - spray from the wheel?