Getting multiple ignition coil codes

MarkAlan · Post by **MarkAlan** » 16 Dec 2019, 21:27

Hey guys,

I purchased a 2004 XC90 T6 and when I drove it the day after purchasing I got multiple codes. P0351, P0353, P0356, P0352, P0354 and P0304. The first 5 codes are for ignition coil and the last one is misfire cylinder 4.

Can you guys give me any direction? I was SO excited to drive my new ride and it also snowed for the first time but wasn’t able to drive it.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 17 Dec 2019, 04:05

You just got the Truck. Clear all the codes and see what if any comes back. What you are looking at maybe long gone.

MarkAlan · Post by **MarkAlan** » 17 Dec 2019, 06:23

MarkAlan · Post by **MarkAlan** » 17 Dec 2019, 06:53

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑17 Dec 2019, 04:05 You just got the Truck. Clear all the codes and see what if any comes back. What you are looking at maybe long gone.

I did clear them, they come back almost immediately. The check engine light starts blinking and you feel the engine running awful.

Post by **oragex** » 17 Dec 2019, 07:24

Start by disconnecting one injector at a time, see how that cylinder is reacting www.youtube.com/watch?v=fnYUQh23p7Q

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 17 Dec 2019, 09:27

Check the battery health then check wiring and connectors going to the coil packs. Keep in mind that the bolt holding down the coil pack is one of the grounds, the metal under the bolt must be clean so that it will get good electrical contact.

The P0351 - P0356 = Volvo codes ECM-360B - ECM-365B

ECM-360B - ECM-365B Ignition coil cylinder X, signal. Signal missing

Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) information

Condition
The engine control module (ECM) checks the signal cable for the ignition coil primary winding.
The diagnostic trouble code (DTC) is stored if the engine control module (ECM) detects that the signal for the primary winding for the ignition coil is missing.
The diagnostic trouble code (DTC) indicates which ignition coil is being referred to.

ECM-360B: ignition coil 1
ECM-361B: ignition coil 2
ECM-362B: ignition coil 3
ECM-363B: ignition coil 4
ECM-364B: ignition coil 5
ECM-365B: ignition coil 6.

The diagnostic trouble code (DTC) can be diagnosed when the engine is running.

Substitute value
None.

Possible source

Contact resistance in the terminals
Open-circuit in the signal cable
Damaged ignition coil.

Fault symptoms
Malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) lit
The engine is not firing on all cylinders.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

20/3 - 20/8 are the Coil Packs.

MarkAlan · Post by **MarkAlan** » 17 Dec 2019, 11:11

Thank yuh for the replies, the previous owner said they had the plugs and coils all replaced this year. Any other ideas?

MarkAlan · Post by **MarkAlan** » 17 Dec 2019, 11:13

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑17 Dec 2019, 09:27 Check the battery health then check wiring and connectors going to the coil packs. Keep in mind that the bolt holding down the coil pack is one of the grounds, the metal under the bolt must be clean so that it will get good electrical contact.

The P0351 - P0356 = Volvo codes ECM-360B - ECM-365B

ECM-360B - ECM-365B Ignition coil cylinder X, signal. Signal missing

Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) information

Condition
The engine control module (ECM) checks the signal cable for the ignition coil primary winding.
The diagnostic trouble code (DTC) is stored if the engine control module (ECM) detects that the signal for the primary winding for the ignition coil is missing.
The diagnostic trouble code (DTC) indicates which ignition coil is being referred to.
ECM-360B: ignition coil 1
ECM-361B: ignition coil 2
ECM-362B: ignition coil 3
ECM-363B: ignition coil 4
ECM-364B: ignition coil 5
ECM-365B: ignition coil 6.

The diagnostic trouble code (DTC) can be diagnosed when the engine is running.

Substitute value
None.

Possible source
Contact resistance in the terminals
Open-circuit in the signal cable
Damaged ignition coil.

Fault symptoms
Malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) lit
The engine is not firing on all cylinders.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

20/3 - 20/8 are the Coil Packs.

FuelSystemXC90.jpg

So you are thinking I should clean the coil packs and check all their wiring?

Post by **mrbrian200** » 17 Dec 2019, 12:49

Codes for multiple coil packs at the same time: The first thing I'd check would be the chassis ground wires for the secondaries. 31/88 and 31/89 in the diagram. They're rings that attach to the cylinder head with small bolts right in the area of the coil packs. These are copper wires crimped into ring terminals. They can become contaminated by engine oil from a leaky oil filler cap, and/or by moisture. I recommend fluxing and soldering them. Use tinning paste flux (I use oatey #95 for this available at any decent hardware), gob it on at the wire crimp, heat it, repeat until you don't see any more black gunk coming out with subsequent applications, then finish if off with lead free silver bearing solder. Wire brush the ring terminals and the attachment points on the cylinder head then reattach.

You'll need at least a 60w soldering iron or small butane soldering torch to get these hot enough to activate the cleaning flux and melt solder. Careful: if you get it too hot you'll oxidize the copper wires and make more of a problem than you started with. Practice on 'spare wire' before doing this on the car.

Also check your engine to chassis grounds for voltage drop. As a quick test attach a jumper cable between the block and chassis.

You should also probably check for proper voltage at the green/white wires that supply battery voltage to the coil packs. The ground is completed through the coil packs to the ECM, and is 'momentary switching' by nature, thus can be difficult to gauge with a digital voltmeter. You'll want to dig out the old school analog meter with a needle (ideally you'd probe this with a scope), probe between one of the green-white wires at any of the coil packs to ground and look to see if the needle swings back and fourth or dips in a fast cyclic manner. Any more than about 0.1-.2v swing on the analog needle (note mechanical needles don't respond well to fast momentary dips in voltage, the actual drop is likely to be much greater than what the needle appears to indicate) may indicate a problem either in the wiring or inside the engine control relay which is 2/32 on the diagram (labeled FMA2 in the fuse/relay center under the hood). Alternately you can try bypassing the wiring and relay and just supply power through a temporary wire to this circuit direct from B+. Just be aware anytime you break the insulation around any of these wires you potentially introduce a point where moisture can invade the copper wires to instigate corrosion over time as we see in the heavy cables that run between the battery to engine compartment where the ends of the wires aren't sealed off--moisture wicks up into the copper wire and the cables rot from the inside out over time.