Our Daughters ‘09 S40 was vandalized and rear window passenger side glass was shattered.
I’ve torn into the door have it all apart but now it seems I need to drill out the rear window channel to get replacement glass in. I couldn’t get the glass in via access to the inner door panel.
Anyone have correct procedure?
I don’t have Vida.
I bought an online Chiltons manual, that was a waste of $30. Don’t know if mail order of a Haynes would be any good either.
Not too excited about drilling and riveting door channel and the regulator but it’s starting to look like that’s what’s going to be required.
Not happy about that prospect.
'09 S40
- RickHaleParker
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The attached file is the VIDA replacement instructions.
Look like what you missed is removing triangular piece on the outside of the door and a retainer under it.
Look like what you missed is removing triangular piece on the outside of the door and a retainer under it.
- Attachments
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09S40RearDoorWindow.pdf- (206.17 KiB) Downloaded 94 times
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1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
The window regulator is a PITA.
I removed everything with the regulator in the full up position. For reinstalling you need to access the window regulator to glass bracket bolts so the window needs to be in ~half up position. I had figured I needed to drill out the regular, to re attach as I didn’t notice the two access holes in the panel. My bad. Also the nuts on the back of the glass attach points SPIN so you need to glue them in with BUTYL or something so you can tighten them. Nice job Volvo.
I’m taking a break for a bit because I’ve got to rip it apart again...to finish.
Thanks again to Rick Hale for the VIDA info on disassembling the rear window track. I’m still making progress...just not happy being inside an interior door again. Last time I think it was a ‘70’s American Motors product. Seems like the only constant is difficulty.
I hate rivets...if I liked them as a fastener I would have built a metal airplane instead of a wooden oneZ. To me rivets say...”I could have used a screw and a captive but, but *^## we want to save $2.00. And use a couple of rivets.
I removed everything with the regulator in the full up position. For reinstalling you need to access the window regulator to glass bracket bolts so the window needs to be in ~half up position. I had figured I needed to drill out the regular, to re attach as I didn’t notice the two access holes in the panel. My bad. Also the nuts on the back of the glass attach points SPIN so you need to glue them in with BUTYL or something so you can tighten them. Nice job Volvo.
I’m taking a break for a bit because I’ve got to rip it apart again...to finish.
Thanks again to Rick Hale for the VIDA info on disassembling the rear window track. I’m still making progress...just not happy being inside an interior door again. Last time I think it was a ‘70’s American Motors product. Seems like the only constant is difficulty.
I hate rivets...if I liked them as a fastener I would have built a metal airplane instead of a wooden oneZ. To me rivets say...”I could have used a screw and a captive but, but *^## we want to save $2.00. And use a couple of rivets.
Finished the job.
Additional tips.
If you tighten the regulator to window bolts so the window just slides in, they will be under tension and less likely to spin. I had some silicone caulk on hand and used some of that...but was able to get the window in without trouble before it cured.
The rear window guide went in easily after the window was secure.
I never moved the motor from its full up position. I pulled the motor. Lowered the window to ~1/2 for bolt access then temporarily reinstalled the motor to hold it in place. After rear bracket was riveted in I removed the motor raised the window to full up position and reinstalled. I tested motor before putting all the trim back in. Whew. Saved $400 by DIY and a $48 EBay replacement rear window.
Would I do it again? Not if I had $500 laying around so yeah probably.
Additional tips.
If you tighten the regulator to window bolts so the window just slides in, they will be under tension and less likely to spin. I had some silicone caulk on hand and used some of that...but was able to get the window in without trouble before it cured.
The rear window guide went in easily after the window was secure.
I never moved the motor from its full up position. I pulled the motor. Lowered the window to ~1/2 for bolt access then temporarily reinstalled the motor to hold it in place. After rear bracket was riveted in I removed the motor raised the window to full up position and reinstalled. I tested motor before putting all the trim back in. Whew. Saved $400 by DIY and a $48 EBay replacement rear window.
Would I do it again? Not if I had $500 laying around so yeah probably.
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