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2002 V70 NA Stalling Out Cold, runs well hot

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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E Showell
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Re: Stalling Out

Post by E Showell »

As a quick and dirty diagnostic on ECT fault, when next experiencing hard starting, fully depress accelerator. If it starts right up, that is suggestive of ECT issues. When ECT malfunctions, it over enriches mixture on starting so you have, in essence, a flooded condition. Depressing gas pedal adds more air to the mix to compensate for the flooding.
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Post by highmiles »

My 2001 S60 uses a 19mm wrench. Due to the wire, you wont be able to get a socket on it. The thermostat housing changed somewhere between 01 and 03 on the S60, on the 2001 I removed the top of the housing to get enough access to fit the wrench. The later model has a body that is not intended to be disassembled, but the ECT sensor is lower and looks to be more accessible

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Post by Mr. Detail »

Would you guys recommend also replacing the thermostat since I already have the housing removed?

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amblerman
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Post by amblerman »

You could use either an open ended wrench or a special line wrench that looks like a closed box wrench with a slit cut into it.

I watched a video on this and he used a 3/4 open wrench to bust it open. 3/4 in = 19.05 mm so I'm guessing its a 19mm

If you wanted a socket style, you'd have to get a 19mm O2 sensor socket . That's a socket with a slit cut up side to accommodate the wire

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Post by amblerman »

Mr. Detail wrote: 12 Jan 2020, 05:30 By the way can anyone shoot me a snapshot of where the ECT sensor is?
purple - ECT
red = thermostat (thermostat housing removed)
ECT.png
ECT.png (114.52 KiB) Viewed 1116 times

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Post by Mr. Detail »

OK, with the help of one of our forum guys, "Amblerman" we were able to change out the ECT coolant sensor over the weekend. I was hoping that would resolve my hard start up issue but it has not.
I have already changed out the ignition coils and also the plugs.
The car shakes badly when first turned over and I have to hold the accelerator down to keep the rpm's up until it warms up. Once warmed up there are no issues.

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Post by abscate »

IS there an original thread here so we can look at the history again?
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Post by Mr. Detail »

I think this is it.

viewtopic.php?p=529862#p529862

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Post by abscate »

OKay, merged them up

Have a look at the vacuum line running off the manifold, heading left (towards driver) to a T junction or check valve (there are slight differences) - remove all hoses, inspect, clip off ends, test check valves, look for cracks. This will take about an hour.

The NA engine management runs the car at high idle for the first 30 seconds to burn off the excess gas, is it going to 1500 rpm for about 30 seconds, then slowing to normal idle speed?
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Post by Mr. Detail »

Wen you speak of looking at the vacuum line, running off the manifold. heading left (towards the driver) this seems backwards if i am standing in front of the car at the grill and looking towards the windshield. Towards the driver would be "right', correct?

Yes, the car is beginning at a high idle when first turned over and then it slowly drops down. But when it drops down to normal idle (750-800 rpm's) the car shakes like hell. If I start to drive the car within 1 or 2 minutes after starting it will die out/shut down on the road. I have to almost wait 5-10 minutes until the temperature gauge show the needle in the middle before I can drive it successfully.

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