2002 V70 NA Stalling Out Cold, runs well hot
- E Showell
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Re: Stalling Out
As a quick and dirty diagnostic on ECT fault, when next experiencing hard starting, fully depress accelerator. If it starts right up, that is suggestive of ECT issues. When ECT malfunctions, it over enriches mixture on starting so you have, in essence, a flooded condition. Depressing gas pedal adds more air to the mix to compensate for the flooding.
'98 V70 NA FWD 5 spd, silver sand metallic (sold)
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'99 S70 NA FWD Auto, black (sold and resurrected -- Don't cry for me Argentina . . . )
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'99 V70 NA FWD Auto, dark blue (sold)
'99 S70 NA FWD Auto, black (sold and resurrected -- Don't cry for me Argentina . . . )
'07 S80 3.2 FWD Auto, Barents Blue Metallic
'06 V70 R AWD Auto, Sonic Blue Metallic (sold)
'04 XC70 Ruby Red Metallic (sold)
'95 855 auto (sold)
'86 245 manual (sold)
'05 V70 T5 M (totalled)
'06 V70 FWD Auto (totalled)
'02 Honda Insight CVT
‘04 Honda Insight CVT — “Yesterday’s car of tomorrow” (sold)
‘06 Honda Insight CVT
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highmiles
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My 2001 S60 uses a 19mm wrench. Due to the wire, you wont be able to get a socket on it. The thermostat housing changed somewhere between 01 and 03 on the S60, on the 2001 I removed the top of the housing to get enough access to fit the wrench. The later model has a body that is not intended to be disassembled, but the ECT sensor is lower and looks to be more accessible
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Mr. Detail
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Would you guys recommend also replacing the thermostat since I already have the housing removed?
- amblerman
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You could use either an open ended wrench or a special line wrench that looks like a closed box wrench with a slit cut into it.
I watched a video on this and he used a 3/4 open wrench to bust it open. 3/4 in = 19.05 mm so I'm guessing its a 19mm
If you wanted a socket style, you'd have to get a 19mm O2 sensor socket . That's a socket with a slit cut up side to accommodate the wire
I watched a video on this and he used a 3/4 open wrench to bust it open. 3/4 in = 19.05 mm so I'm guessing its a 19mm
If you wanted a socket style, you'd have to get a 19mm O2 sensor socket . That's a socket with a slit cut up side to accommodate the wire
- amblerman
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purple - ECTMr. Detail wrote: ↑12 Jan 2020, 05:30 By the way can anyone shoot me a snapshot of where the ECT sensor is?
red = thermostat (thermostat housing removed)
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Mr. Detail
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OK, with the help of one of our forum guys, "Amblerman" we were able to change out the ECT coolant sensor over the weekend. I was hoping that would resolve my hard start up issue but it has not.
I have already changed out the ignition coils and also the plugs.
The car shakes badly when first turned over and I have to hold the accelerator down to keep the rpm's up until it warms up. Once warmed up there are no issues.
I have already changed out the ignition coils and also the plugs.
The car shakes badly when first turned over and I have to hold the accelerator down to keep the rpm's up until it warms up. Once warmed up there are no issues.
- abscate
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IS there an original thread here so we can look at the history again?
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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Mr. Detail
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- abscate
- MVS Moderator
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OKay, merged them up
Have a look at the vacuum line running off the manifold, heading left (towards driver) to a T junction or check valve (there are slight differences) - remove all hoses, inspect, clip off ends, test check valves, look for cracks. This will take about an hour.
The NA engine management runs the car at high idle for the first 30 seconds to burn off the excess gas, is it going to 1500 rpm for about 30 seconds, then slowing to normal idle speed?
Have a look at the vacuum line running off the manifold, heading left (towards driver) to a T junction or check valve (there are slight differences) - remove all hoses, inspect, clip off ends, test check valves, look for cracks. This will take about an hour.
The NA engine management runs the car at high idle for the first 30 seconds to burn off the excess gas, is it going to 1500 rpm for about 30 seconds, then slowing to normal idle speed?
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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Mr. Detail
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Wen you speak of looking at the vacuum line, running off the manifold. heading left (towards the driver) this seems backwards if i am standing in front of the car at the grill and looking towards the windshield. Towards the driver would be "right', correct?
Yes, the car is beginning at a high idle when first turned over and then it slowly drops down. But when it drops down to normal idle (750-800 rpm's) the car shakes like hell. If I start to drive the car within 1 or 2 minutes after starting it will die out/shut down on the road. I have to almost wait 5-10 minutes until the temperature gauge show the needle in the middle before I can drive it successfully.
Yes, the car is beginning at a high idle when first turned over and then it slowly drops down. But when it drops down to normal idle (750-800 rpm's) the car shakes like hell. If I start to drive the car within 1 or 2 minutes after starting it will die out/shut down on the road. I have to almost wait 5-10 minutes until the temperature gauge show the needle in the middle before I can drive it successfully.
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