'04 V70 2,5T engine turn over, but won't start

[Agrector]

Good Evening!

Just drove my girlfriend to her workplace, then went home, but when tried to go back for her car didn't start. Happened week ago.

Battery was charged.
Spark plugs checked cleaned.
Wires as possible from up checked.
Fuses checked.
Fuel is ok.
Timing is ok.
Crankshaft sensor changed to new
Camshaft sensored fliped (exhaust to intake)
Wires on starter checked. etc. etc.
Unfortunately I don't have an trusted OBD2 reader, I know and I try to find someone close to me.

Other than this things any idea, experience, advice, or what can I try?

[- Pete -]

I’d start with a basic ELM327 type Bluetooth scanner & run it through your phone or tablet.

Veepeak BLE OBD2 device & OBD Fusion app for IOS, Konnwei KW902 & Torque app for Android devices are the ones I use, very inexpensive & informative. No replacement for ViDA, but a darn good start.

Have you verified the presence of fuel PSI at the rail & spark? If you use ether, try to shoot it well past the MAF so you don’t damage/ruin it. Someone posted recently that they had fuel PSI at the rail, thought they had spark, but still had no ignition of said fuel. I don’t recall how it panned out, but this to me would indicate injectors aren’t pulsing. Not saying that’s your issue, but keep sleuthing.

I’ve offered this suggestion up before, so may want to have a peek. On our 06 2.5T I had a similar issue. On occasion, it would crank but not start. I went through all the basic stuff but nothing wasn’t adding up to a solution. I ended up on some Russian website where a guy posted a video (of an XC) that contained my same issue. His solution ended up being my same solution. I still haven’t been able to find his video nor the site it was posted on & I’ve searched feverishly for it, since every time I post this I feel like a crazy person, not being able to cite my references!

Up on the top passenger (US) side of the radiator fan shroud there are a pair of substantive wires; one black, one red. In between these 2 there is also a tiny purple wire, maybe 16 gauge. Plainly visible was a length of green corrosion ~2-3mm in length, just up from the plug. The insulation had cracked or worn away & the copper threads inside had corroded, leaving what I assume only sporadic transmission of whatever signal was meant to pass along that wire.

Anyhow, I cut that section of wire out, soldered in a new piece, heat shrinked it & had zero issues after that point in time. We owned that car for 1.5 years after I had that incident without another occurrence.

I’ll post a picture of the area I’m talking about.

The vicinity is circled in green. More specifically, my break was in the area circled in mustard.

D9B37448-760F-4177-90F3-827DC92F5DE6.jpeg (125.19 KiB) Viewed 1497 times

4F59B514-C602-4746-B8DC-29E5AE43309C.jpeg (109.56 KiB) Viewed 1497 times

[Agrector]

Thanks for the fast reply! Will go through and check all!

[oragex]

Excellent tip above. I would also look close at the wires to the electrical connector for the coolant temp sensor (right on the thermostat housing). Also look with a flash light at the CEM for any water leaks (google up)

[Agrector]

Sure, I will do the wires, temp sensor was changed like 10'000 kms ago. I already checked them CEM modul for leak, corrosion or loose cable, seemed everything okay.

[Agrector]

Update!

- tried the ELM327 with Torque Pro, says no DTCS in ECU, so I need a proper device to read deeper.
- injectors were cleaned and refurbished by professional like 4 months ago, there is fuel pressure, tested with the valve 3x times. Also can smell petrol at the exhaust, and see it on the spark plugs.
- My V70 was designed for the US, but remained here in EU, checked the wires you told it seems alright.
- Also unplugged - plugged the small wire on the starter
- checked the fuses in all 3 fuse box, BUT (I wasn't able to check the balck box fuses, I don't have my multimeter with me)

So right now I finished to solve it on the street by myself, on Saturday going to my mechanic, and take it apart. I was already the plan for the last weekend to change the damaged head gasket. But other than it start eating the coolant, and say error codes P0304, P0305 (misfire at cylinder 4 and 5) no serious problem, so I don't think this two related!

I will keep the post updated, and post pictures as we going ahead!

[- Pete -]

So have you also got a milkshake in your engine oil?

Have you taken PSI readings on the cylinders?

To me it sounds like you either don’t have compression or spark, coupled with something else.

I don’t think you can rule out the 2-cylinder misfires as being unrelated to your crank/no-start situation.

[Agrector]

No milkshake!
Compression test will be on Saturday due to I don't have the tool here.
Sometimes when try to start I can hear 1 bang from the back from the exhaust, so some spark should be.
Yeah, I can't for 100%, but until now it started all the time, and since I know about the gasket problem drive it carefully and watch the boost not be high.

[Agrector]

So, here as I promised!

Pulled the head yesterday at mechanic.
Timing has jumped couple of teeth altough the belt was okay on tension and condition. Seems water pressure inside caused to the exhaust side a block. Unfortunately I have to change all the 10 exhaust valves too.

The cause why its got head gasket problem...gasket wasn't cross burnt, but the layer have space between them, that means I have to take out the block too and refurbish, last time the head has torsion which was refurbished - my mistake that I didn't took out the block that time. Fortunately itt seems after pre-check of the block, that there are no crack, should be only torsion in worst case or just have to refurbish the surface.

Costly way of learning Anyway I do it the right way now, what I change will be original part only! Also If I have time then try too detail everything in the engine bay...