Diagnostic help - 99 s70 won't start after being driven and turned off

Post by **smacknab** » 01 Mar 2020, 06:07

Hi everyone,

Current issue I'm having is after driving the car somewhere, if I shut the engine for 5-15 minutes, then go to turn the engine, it won't start. At first you can hear the whole engine trying to start, but at some point (2-3 seconds) it only sounds like the starter is cranking. At which point I pull the keys, put them back in and keep the key in position 3 for ~five seconds before I crank again. It always starts on the second go, so far.

I've had the codes p0452, p1041 and p1081 for a little while, as well as a on&off ETS light with some occasional throttle dips at idle.

Here's what I've found when searching the code:
452 - EVAP - fuel pressure tank sensor or evap pressure sensor
1041 - found a post about the MAF, but another for injector 1 harness
1081 - immobilizer or fuel delivery system high (what I have from my notes when googling it before)

Does anyone have any tips or guides for how to start diagnosing an issue like this?

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 01 Mar 2020, 11:38

Is that S70 the naturally aspirated version?

smacknab wrote: ↑01 Mar 2020, 06:07 At which point I pull the keys, put them back in and keep the key in position 3 for ~five seconds before I crank again. It always starts on the second go, so far.

That is symptoms of fuel pressure bleeding off. Waiting gives the fuel pump time to bring the fuel pressure back up. But it could be Immobilizer communication, 3 - 5 seconds give it time to get a correct exchange of data.

Wait the 3 - 5 seconds before you try to start it the first time. See if it will start on the first try every time.

smacknab wrote: ↑01 Mar 2020, 06:07
I've had the codes p0452, p1041 and p1081 for a little while, as well as a on&off ETS light with some occasional throttle dips at idle.

Here's what I've found when searching the code:
452 - EVAP - fuel pressure tank sensor or evap pressure sensor
1041 - found a post about the MAF, but another for injector 1 harness
1081 - immobilizer or fuel delivery system high (what I have from my notes when googling it before)

Does anyone have any tips or guides for how to start diagnosing an issue like this?

P1XXX are manufacturer defined. P1041 can mean one thing for a Volvo something completely different for a different make of car.

For your S70:
P1041 = Brake pedal sensor, Signal too high, Signal too high or Signal too low.
P1081 = Immobilizer communication.

ECM-720A (P1081) Immobilizer communication.

Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) information

Condition
The engine control module (ECM) interprets the following as faults: If the engine control module (ECM) does not communicate with the immobilizer control module within 2 seconds of the ignition being switched on, or the engine is started when the ignition has been on for too long without the ignition being turned off in between. “No communication”. If the +15 supply between the ignition and the engine control module (ECM) is switched on and off while driving, “faulty signal”. If a faulty VIN CODE is sent from the immobilizer control module. Diagnostic trouble code ECM-720A is stored.

Substitute value
None.

Possible source
Faulty communication:

the ignition has been switched on and off more than three times while driving.

No communication:

immobilizer control module in the diagnostic mode
faulty key (transponder read off or not programmed)
open-circuit in the signal cable between the immobilizer control module and the engine control module (ECM)
Damaged immobilizer control module.
Incorrect immobilizer control module.
Incorrect VIN code:
Damaged immobilizer control module.
Incorrect immobilizer control module.
Damaged engine control module (ECM).
Incorrect engine control module (ECM).

Fault symptoms
the engine starts but stops immediately.

Post by **smacknab** » 01 Mar 2020, 20:55

Hey Rick,

Thanks for the thurough response, can I ask where you find the info? I feel like you have better sources than I.

It is a Naturally Aspirated and m56 trans

From what you posted, I'm getting that the issue has more to do with the immobilizer than say a fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator or evap issue? How would you go about testing the immobilizer based on the code?

Post by **abscate** » 02 Mar 2020, 01:29

smacknab wrote: ↑01 Mar 2020, 06:07 Hi everyone,

Current issue I'm having is after driving the car somewhere, if I shut the engine for 5-15 minutes, then go to turn the engine, it won't start. At first you can hear the whole engine trying to start, but at some point (2-3 seconds) it only sounds like the starter is cranking. At which point I pull the keys, put them back in and keep the key in position 3 for ~five seconds before I crank again. It always starts on the second go, so far.

I've had the codes p0452, p1041 and p1081 for a little while, as well as a on&off ETS light with some occasional throttle dips at idle.

Here's what I've found when searching the code:
452 - EVAP - fuel pressure tank sensor or evap pressure sensor
1041 - found a post about the MAF, but another for injector 1 harness
1081 - immobilizer or fuel delivery system high (what I have from my notes when googling it before)

Does anyone have any tips or guides for how to start diagnosing an issue like this?

If it starts and stalls, and then just cranks , that could be the immob fault for key being in too long. Are you using the key in antenna ting hack by chance ?

Cut and paste from my S70 maintenance thread

Solved mystery ...if key is left in immob to long a ECM 0750? Pops according to web. This maps to P1081, which was present. When I cleared it, car starts immediately
The burning question, how long is too long to trigger code?

I got familiar with this fault because we live in a place where we routinely leave our keys in our cars in the driveway.

Post by **smacknab** » 02 Mar 2020, 05:08

Only a few times over the last 2-3 months has it started and stalled out immediately. The problems I'm having isn't that the car is stalling, but more that it takes extra long to crank. It could have something to do with keeping the key in though, say if we were sitting in the driveway talking before I started the car, so I'll keep that in mind.

What is the key in antenna thing hack?

Post by **abscate** » 02 Mar 2020, 11:38

smacknab wrote: ↑02 Mar 2020, 05:08 Only a few times over the last 2-3 months has it started and stalled out immediately. The problems I'm having isn't that the car is stalling, but more that it takes extra long to crank. It could have something to do with keeping the key in though, say if we were sitting in the driveway talking before I started the car, so I'll keep that in mind.

What is the key in antenna thing hack?

About $50

(Keys are chipped on a 1999, so if you don't want to pay the dealer, you grind a new key, then use your chipped key to fool the immob and let your uncchipped key work)

The start -stall crank/no start is classic Immob too long fault. Stop talking in the driveway and go get a glass of wine inside.