1998 s70 GLT p0455 assistance

ShadyMilkMan · Post by **ShadyMilkMan** » 06 Mar 2020, 17:44

Hey everyone,

Coop from Cali here, first post on this forum. Thanks for having such a kickass resource for Volvo owners! I've been lurking for a few days reading posts and solving the things that I could find relevant topics for, but I need some help. I am an old school Nissan / Datsun mechanic, been building s13s and s14s for years, but I was recently gifted this beauty of a 1998 Volvo S70 GLT. She's auto, red, and has 194k on the clock. Still RIPS hard enough around corners to chirp the tires and I reckon that suits me just fine for right now.

Like I said, I have been searching for this already, so please understand that I know forum rules from way back, and I hammered that search button plenty before asking you guys and gals for help

This car has two codes, p0455 and p0410. I'm not interested in the 410 code right now. My main concern is getting this evap system fixed so I can smog this aging Swedish nymp (her name was Helga from day one) and sell her as quickly as possible. It's a flipper for me, but I have the good sense to fix her first. That would just be rude.

So, I am a little confused on the difference between the evap charcoal canister, where I have learned there is a J hose and L hose, and an evap purge valve, which I hear is quite a known issue on these cars. Is there anyone who wouldn't mind giving me a hand with this thing for a few minutes and point me in the right direction? I cannot seem to find pictures on this forum of the 98 evap system, only the 99. I hear they are different.

Thanks in advance!

-Coop

Post by **abscate** » 07 Mar 2020, 04:25

Hello Coop

The 1998 is a transition year and some have the evap canister and shut off valve in the driver fender well, you have to remove the plastic rivets to access, and some use the later style which is near the rear passenger side wheel.

Post by **jreed** » 07 Mar 2020, 05:53

If the shut off valve is located in the fender well on your car, this post from a while back might be of interest. It shows one way to open the fender well and replace the hoses:
viewtopic.php?t=27538&start=28#p493518

ShadyMilkMan · Post by **ShadyMilkMan** » 08 Mar 2020, 13:06

Yo Abscate and Jreed, thanks a lot fellas! I appreciate the help.

Turns out this vehicle has the canister inside the driver's side fender well. Those little rivets are a piece of cake to pop off, eh? lol.

I went nuts and am going to replace every single vacuum and emissions hose I can find. Again, thanks guys.

Post by **jreed** » 08 Mar 2020, 14:53

Good luck. It's not too bad of a job. I bought lengths of silicone tubing in 6, 8 and 10 mm inner diameters and that was a great help to have on hand to run new lines.

ShadyMilkMan · Post by **ShadyMilkMan** » 11 Mar 2020, 22:07

Today I removed the PCV canister and found this:

From all the horror stories I've read, this seems like pretty normal buildup. Maybe a little heavy? Have no frame of reference.

ShadyMilkMan · Post by **ShadyMilkMan** » 11 Mar 2020, 22:15

This, on the other hand, is the bottom port from PCV canister to engine block. That looks nasty. I'm assuming that emulsified oil should not be going into my oil pan, right?

Post by **Eddystone** » 12 Mar 2020, 14:27

Just a little advice, and your mileage may vary. I had the evap emissions leak fault in my 1998 V70 non-turbo which is configured like yours. Long story short: I replaced several suspect hoses each time thinking it was fixed, but no. I just finally replaced the servo up on the radiator that opens to allow the vapors to be sucked into the intake manifold. That fixed it. Takes about 30 seconds to do.

Along the way, I replaced the little hose back near the gas tank up above the fuel filter. This is the little 2-1/2" black rubber hose with a different diameter on each end (I think an $8 part from FCP)and it was very dry and somewhat crumbly but in fact not really leaking air or broken. Next, I replaced the long black hose under the left front fender which previous owner had replaced with vinyl hose. (And by the way, if the hose you use for this is TOO lightweight, the vacuum may collapse it and cause a kink along a bend. I used fairly beefy fuel line hose. My canister was fine. The hoses going forward from the canister were fine. The hose going all the way back to the gas tank were fine.

Finally, I sprung for the solenoid (maybe $50) swapped it in less than a minute, and that solved it. Personally, I wouldn't have suspected that part and was sure it was a bad hose somewhere, but I could have saved a LOT of troubleshooting by doing that part first. On the other hand, I did some preventive maintenance by replacing hoses.

Regarding the PCV system on your car, that's about the worst I have seen online or in the three I have done. That stuff just needs to be replaced, and people on this forum will consistently tell you to use OEM Volvo for that box. Some of the oddball hoses can be fabricated fairly easily. In my 98 and 99, there were a LOT of vacuum and pcv hoses that were old, dried up, inflexible and in need of replacement.

Once you catch up on all of the "deferred maintenance" on these old cars, they run very well and are very reliable.

I don't have a "normal" turbo, but on my 1999 T5 Turbo, there is a banjo bolt with a little orifice that was completely clogged with really hard oil residue. Your turbo may not have this part, but don't take anything for granted when it comes to that crappy oil residue clogging things.

Richard99 · Post by **Richard99** » 12 Mar 2020, 16:24

Eddystone wrote: 12 Mar 2020, 14:27 Just a little advice, and your mileage may vary. I had the evap emissions leak fault in my 1998 V70 non-turbo which is configured like yours. Long story short: I replaced several suspect hoses each time thinking it was fixed, but no. I just finally replaced the servo up on the radiator that opens to allow the vapors to be sucked into the intake manifold. That fixed it. Takes about 30 seconds to do.

Along the way, I replaced the little hose back near the gas tank up above the fuel filter. This is the little 2-1/2" black rubber hose with a different diameter on each end (I think an $8 part from FCP)and it was very dry and somewhat crumbly but in fact not really leaking air or broken. Next, I replaced the long black hose under the left front fender which previous owner had replaced with vinyl hose. (And by the way, if the hose you use for this is TOO lightweight, the vacuum may collapse it and cause a kink along a bend. I used fairly beefy fuel line hose. My canister was fine. The hoses going forward from the canister were fine. The hose going all the way back to the gas tank were fine.

Finally, I sprung for the solenoid (maybe $50) swapped it in less than a minute, and that solved it. Personally, I wouldn't have suspected that part and was sure it was a bad hose somewhere, but I could have saved a LOT of troubleshooting by doing that part first. On the other hand, I did some preventive maintenance by replacing hoses.

Regarding the PCV system on your car, that's about the worst I have seen online or in the three I have done. That stuff just needs to be replaced, and people on this forum will consistently tell you to use OEM Volvo for that box. Some of the oddball hoses can be fabricated fairly easily. In my 98 and 99, there were a LOT of vacuum and pcv hoses that were old, dried up, inflexible and in need of replacement.

Once you catch up on all of the "deferred maintenance" on these old cars, they run very well and are very reliable.

I don't have a "normal" turbo, but on my 1999 T5 Turbo, there is a banjo bolt with a little orifice that was completely clogged with really hard oil residue. Your turbo may not have this part, but don't take anything for granted when it comes to that crappy oil residue clogging things.

Wise. I also had a P0455 that was fixed by replacing the purge valve on a 1998 V70. They can be checked by blowing through the stem. You shouldn't normally be able to. When voltage (9V battery for test) is applied to the correct terminals, the valve opens up and can be blown though. This isn't a perfect test, though, since the valve can often fail once hot/during operation, or intermittently. Since it's a fairly cheap part, you may just want to replace it anyway if you are going to the trouble of replacing all the tubing.

Eric

Post by **Eddystone** » 12 Mar 2020, 16:51

Eric,

I suspect that the purge valve is normally closed and only opens under certain conditions that the computer senses. Then it sucks the vapors into the engine. My bad valve could not be blown through, but I didn't do the research to figure out which pins would power it open. I believe it's just essentially a solenoid with a coil that just eventually opens up electrically leaving the valve in its closed position. I, of course (who wouldn't?) put my mouth on it and tried to blow through it both ways.

Glen