Engine died while driving and won't start. Topic is solved

[valvolvo70]

Researching my issue the past few days, reading a lot about ANY timing belt slip means your engine is toast? I'm hoping Rick is correct though! I do see what I would consider significant play (1/2"-3/4") in the belt when its pressed as seen in the attached image. The hydraulic tensioner (cylinder/plunger) also moves quite easy when force is applied. I know form experience how difficult it is to compress the tensioner cylinder/plunger with a clamp.

If it is the tensioner, I'm seeing a new tensioners at IPD (MTC) for $40 and $95-$110 at FCP? Understanding OE vs OEM.

TB tensioner.jpg (302.19 KiB) Viewed 896 times

[erikv11]

Tensioner is definitely bad from your description. A few teeth of slippage is not engine death (bent valves), but several teeth is.

The factory tensioner is Aisin, I wouldn't touch MTC unless you are OK losing the engine at some point.

[RickHaleParker]

Researching my issue the past few days, reading a lot about ANY timing belt slip means your engine is toast? I'm hoping Rick is correct though!

Belt breaking is toast. Slipping has some forgiveness.


For mission critical components, use OEM parts.

OEM Part numbers:

• Volvo 9146693
  Asin BTV-005
  Febi 22143 (Repackaged Asin)

You can find these for ~$60.00 but if you get the one from FCP, replacements from them on will have a summed cost equal to the cost of shipping the old part back. FCP Euro lifetime replacement guarantee.

[valvolvo70]

I purchased my T5 from a good friend along with a detailed 8 year mechanical history excel report. He also completed all the repairs like me. Fortunately, the tensioner and timing belt were purchased from FCP and covered under lifetime warranty! Ordering both today. Going to align the cams/crank to see how many teeth were jumped.

[abscate]

I purchased my T5 from a good friend along with a detailed 8 year mechanical history excel report. He also completed all the repairs like me. Fortunately, the tensioner and timing belt were purchased from FCP and covered under lifetime warranty! Ordering both today. Going to align the cams/crank to see how many teeth were jumped.

The warranty doesn’t transfer so you will have to pay for the parts. It’s unfair to the vendor to cheat them on this deal, so have him do the repair before you transfer the title. Keep it clean so they keep doing this deal.

[valvolvo70]

UPDATE: Checked the cam/crank alignment today and everything is aligned, on the marks as seen in image. On to more troubleshooting ...

[misha]

Do you have check engine light ON with key in pos.II along with all other warning lights(bulb check)?

Also...when you said that it stops cranking after 3-4 cycles....what do you mean by that?

It cranks 3-4 cycles and it stops cranking?

[RickHaleParker]

Timing belt OK. Charge pipe OK.

Check the battery out. What is the at rest voltage? Have the battery bench tested. Clean the battery cables and check for cable defects. You might be getting a large voltage drop across corrosion. Which can wreak havoc on a lot of electrical and electronics, like the starting system.

Give it a 3 -5 second shot of Starting Fluid and see if it fires on ether.

[valvolvo70]

My CE light is always on and has been for many years!. Codes relate to vac leaks that I'm sure came as an "option" off the factory floor.

When I start the engine, it cycles/turns over 3-4 times, then a "thud", like its backfiring or trying to fire, and stops turning over altogether. Turn the key back to position 1 and repeat with regularity. My battery is dead now so I have to jump start.

[RickHaleParker]

My battery is dead now so I have to jump start.

You need to put the battery on a charger for at least a couple of days. Then take it to a parts store for a bench test.

3-4 times then "thud" is symptoms of a battery issue but it could be other things.