Quarter inch gap top strut bolt and washer

[smacknab]

Anyone know if this is normal? I didn't have the Volvo tool when I installed my sturts a couple weeks ago and I realized now this gap probably isn't normal. Can anyone confirm my suspicion (/suspension lol)?

[abscate]

Looks like the cross nut isn’t down hard enough

See lots of discussion here

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=76848

[smacknab]

Looks like the cross nut isn’t down hard enough

See lots of discussion here

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=76848

Ah ok, interesting I figured it was just the top but. Thinking about the assembly.. do you think I have to put the car on jack stands and put the springs compressors on to get that nut down? Or can I just remove the top nut and washer with the car on the ground then just tighten from the top?

[erikv11]

Totally OK to remove it with the car on the ground.

You don't want to mess with it with the car in the air. The spring will decompress and shoot the strut downward. With the car on the ground the weight of the car compresses the spring, top is held by the fender bottom is held by the strut plate, it goes nowhere.

[smacknab]

Thanks for the info!

[abscate]

I’m missing something here.

If the cross nut is loose, you have to pull the strut and remove the strut bearing to get to it, don’t you?

Or can you just remove the nut and washer and get to it down the strut bearing hole?

[jimmy57]

The cross nut is just under the rebound/unload bumper washer.
4-7 mm is normal on any I have replaced parts on. If you take wheels off straight ahead the gap grows on one side of the washer and decreases 180 degrees away as the strut moves eccentrically off center either direction.

Now for the tough part: you must counterhold the strut shaft while tightening or you have high risk of twisting the metal sleeve in the mount and possibly tearing it a little. That speeds failure. I often have wondered if the reports of using Lemforder or other brands with good track record and having short life span relates to this.

[smacknab]

The cross nut is just under the rebound/unload bumper washer.
4-7 mm is normal on any I have replaced parts on. If you take wheels off straight ahead the gap grows on one side of the washer and decreases 180 degrees away as the strut moves eccentrically off center either direction.

Now for the tough part: you must counterhold the strut shaft while tightening or you have high risk of twisting the metal sleeve in the mount and possibly tearing it a little. That speeds failure. I often have wondered if the reports of using Lemforder or other brands with good track record and having short life span relates to this.

So if I'm understanding what you're saying, you're also confirming I should keep wheels on and the car on the ground to do this? Holding the top has definitely been the tough part, I have a huge pipe wrench with teeth I was gonna try.

Looking at the assembly photo, and from my memory, the cross but goes through the strut washer so yeah should be a problem of needing to disassemble

[erikv11]

I’m missing something here.

If the cross nut is loose, you have to pull the strut and remove the strut bearing to get to it, don’t you?

Or can you just remove the nut and washer and get to it down the strut bearing hole?

I've never done it but the last one.

The strut mount (bearing #3) just slips over the top it is not under tension. The cross nut (#8) tightens onto the sleeve in the spring seat (#7). When you remove a strut tower, the strut mount just lifts off the top, only fastener to be removed is the top nut (#1).

[jimmy57]

Keep wheels on ground and the spring is compressed. But if all you is tighten there is no risk. If you unscrew the cross nut other things could occur if car ride height is changed.