Can't spin tire after tightening lug nuts after brake job

zupta82 · Post by **zupta82** » 31 Mar 2020, 19:02

Well I feel funny saying this but I think I got the wrong rotors or pads or something. I have done tons of brake jobs in my life and never had this happen before. I got finished and tightened the lug nuts and the wheel won’t spin freely by hand. I don’t have that “pin” like bolt thing that aligns the rotor to the wheel hub and I have never used them. I always found them on 850’s. I ordered my parts from rock auto I’m using bendix stop semi metallic pads and Wagner rotors.

zupta82 · Post by **zupta82** » 01 Apr 2020, 19:46

Well unfortunately rock auto won’t exchange my parts because I threw away the packaging. They insist that they sent me the right parts. I mic’d the rotor and they measure 1.025 inches. I also looked closely with a flashlight at the caliper bracket and did see the Allen bolt threads are protruding slightly toward the inner side of the rotor. Next I think that the Bendix brand pads that I bought could be too thick and are not letting piston equalize.

zupta82 · Post by **zupta82** » 01 Apr 2020, 19:51

Oh I forgot to mention I stacked a washer on each of the Allen bolts on the caliper bracket to shorten the thread reach, thinking that they could be drawn closer the rotor when the rim is tightened

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 02 Apr 2020, 01:30

Do the calipers go on easy or do you need tap them on with a rubber mallet?
Both front wheels off the ground when you try to spin them?
Will the wheels spin if you don't torque down the lug bolts?
Wagner part number?
Bendix part number?

zupta82 · Post by **zupta82** » 02 Apr 2020, 08:12

Wagner part number:BD125319
Bendix: SBM542

Yes the wheels spin easily when the wheels are not torqued, both wheels are off the ground, I have to lightly push on the caliper while pushing the slide pins inward. Maybe the caliper piston is slightly binding ??

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 02 Apr 2020, 13:30

Wagner says BD125319 is the correct part number for a 1995 960.
Bendix says SBM542 is the correct part.

Your measured rotor thickness is right at the upper limit. I bet the pads thickness is right at the limit, maybe just a tad over what it should be. I think the two new components are not leaving much tolerance. I have ran into this at least a couple of times over the last 50 years.

I would:
1. Clean the calipers.
2. Make sure the pads are going all the way in and not binding.
3. Install the wheels and see if I could move the car.

Moving the car would wear a little bit off the pads and correct the problem. Some times it only take 50 ft to do the trick. Go slow, real slow so you do not overheat the brakes. Once you feel the drag go away you can take off.

zupta82 · Post by **zupta82** » 02 Apr 2020, 17:22

Well I went to autozone and measured the rotors they had in stock. They measure 1.030. I’m gonna order some duralast golds and see what happens. Also here is a pic of the caliper, I can’t press the piston any further back with a clamp.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 02 Apr 2020, 18:55

They have see better days.

Set remanufactured calipers for $153.

Post by **volvolugnut** » 03 Apr 2020, 08:17

Judging by the exterior, there may be interior corrosion that is stopping the piston from retracting more into the caliper. This would limit the gap for the new discs and pads. If you bleed off fluid at the caliper, how bad does it look?
volvolugnut

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 03 Apr 2020, 12:05

volvolugnut wrote: 03 Apr 2020, 08:17 This would limit the gap for the new discs and pads.

The rust on the lip of the piston might be what is doing it.

Zapta: Clean, file, sand the rust off the lip of the pistons and try again. Be a good idea to push the pistons back out a little to avoid damaging the seal.