Engine died while driving and won't start. Topic is solved

valvolvo70 · Post by **valvolvo70** » 06 Apr 2020, 10:49

Thank you members for all the troubleshooting guidance. I will check and reply...
1. Ether
2. Fuel pressure
3. FPR
4. Cap/rotor (with images for Apl users) Note: Cap is OEM Bosch 17K miles.

Codes: P0440 and P0455

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 06 Apr 2020, 14:56

misha wrote: 06 Apr 2020, 10:08 Just Evap codes for years...but now...we confirmed that purge valve was stuck open.
It normaly must be closed at rest untill ecu ask for it.
I'm waiting for results after the advice i have him.

Gotcha, so no other DTCs. I've had many cases lately where I'm diagnosing something like this with no DTCs at all.

Post by **abscate** » 06 Apr 2020, 19:05

valvolvo70 wrote: 06 Apr 2020, 10:49 Thank you members for all the troubleshooting guidance. I will check and reply...
1. Ether
2. Fuel pressure
3. FPR
4. Cap/rotor (with images for Apl users) Note: Cap is OEM Bosch 17K miles.

Codes: P0440 and P0455

valvolvo70 · Post by **valvolvo70** » 07 Apr 2020, 11:11

ETHER question...please see image.

Post by **misha** » 07 Apr 2020, 12:38

Down and AFTER the Maf.
Closer to throttle body.

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 08 Apr 2020, 09:07

You'll want to spray it in the throttle body itself, just remove the hose that goes into it from the intercooler outlet.

valvolvo70 · Post by **valvolvo70** » 05 May 2020, 15:28

**UPDATE**

1. Ether- Didn't need as I was able to start it.
2. Fuel pressure- 40 psi prime key position ll. At the time of testing psi, it wouldn't start.
3. FPR- TBD
4. Cap/rotor (with images for Apl users) Note: Cap is OEM Bosch 17K miles.- See images I cleaned it.

Engine stumbling AFTER reaching temp. It ran great today, drove up/down my street until the engine reached temp.
Replaced EVAP purge valve, new OEM Bosch.
Codes: P0102 (I disconnected the MAF) and P0444.
I'm having the exact same issues as previously posted, here's the link...viewtopic.php?f=1&t=86966

Post by **scot850** » 05 May 2020, 15:43

That looks like oil in the dizzy cap. You may have a leaking rear cam seal which allows oil into the distributor flooding it.

If you haven't already, do the rubber/latex glove test. Place the glove over the oil filler on the top of the engine while running and se if it inflates. If it does you have, then the crankcase pressure will blow out your cam and rear/front crank seals.

It could just be a bad cam seal but more likely crank pressure.

Fuel pressure should be 42 psi, but will probably be ok.

Neil.

valvolvo70 · Post by **valvolvo70** » 05 May 2020, 16:13

scot850 wrote: 05 May 2020, 15:43 That looks like oil in the dizzy cap. Yes, and condensation. You may have a leaking rear cam seal which allows oil into the distributor flooding it. I think so, Ive seen more oil leaking from the crank position sensor.

If you haven't already, do the rubber/latex glove test. Place the glove over the oil filler on the top of the engine while running and se if it inflates. If it does you have, then the crankcase pressure will blow out your cam and rear/front crank seals. I did last year while troubleshooting the same issues and it did inflate.

It could just be a bad cam seal but more likely crank pressure.

Fuel pressure should be 42 psi, but will probably be ok. I'll check again now that it's starting regularly.

Neil.

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 05 May 2020, 17:34

If you haven't done the PCV yet, I recommend doing that very soon as well as replacing the rear cam seals.