Engine died while driving and won't start. Topic is solved

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 06 May 2020, 14:57

It sounds like it's grinding a bit in addition to the rough idle, is your timing belt tensioner set right? Or do you have an exhaust leak or aftermarket exhaust?

valvolvo70 · Post by **valvolvo70** » 06 May 2020, 15:24

misha wrote: 06 May 2020, 13:37
erikv11 wrote: 06 May 2020, 12:53 ...This is unusual. The car should run just fine with no MAF.
Yes....if the Maf is bad.
This shows that the problem is not the MAF.

I suspect that it is the oil in cap & rotor like allready suggested...but could be something else which makes problem when it's heat soaked.
Something like relay,probably ground or b+ cable.
I would suggest a voltage drop test across cables or simple charging voltage test across battery terminals with a multimeter when problem occurs.
Let somebody to keep the gas pedal,not allowing the engine to die while you check charging voltage across battery terminals.

My rented fuel pressure test kit came with a multi meter...
engine off- 12.76 volts (just purchased a new battery Monday)
engine idle (steady)- 14.08 (stumbling dropped/fluctuating to 12-13 volts)
engine @ 3K rpm (steady) 14.08-.09

valvolvo70 · Post by **valvolvo70** » 06 May 2020, 15:27

bmdubya1198 wrote: 06 May 2020, 14:57 It sounds like it's grinding a bit in addition to the rough idle, is your timing belt tensioner set right? Or do you have an exhaust leak or aftermarket exhaust?

Definitely an rusted and welded 2X exhaust leak, cheapo performance sound!

Post by **misha** » 06 May 2020, 15:37

Voltage is good.
The part when you get 12-13v is probably when rpm is fluctuating between 500-900...when engine is struggling to stay running.

Time to sort out the cap and rotor...to keep it clean and dry...before we proceed further.

Did you ever checked main fuel injection relay in the fusebox?

Also....i can't remember.....when stalling occurs...did you tried to jump fuel pump relay with circlip in proper terminals?

valvolvo70 · Post by **valvolvo70** » 06 May 2020, 16:45

misha wrote: 06 May 2020, 15:37 Voltage is good.
The part when you get 12-13v is probably when rpm is fluctuating between 500-900...when engine is struggling to stay running. Right

Time to sort out the cap and rotor...to keep it clean and dry...before we proceed further. I cleaned it yesterday but I'll check again in the event oil is blowing back in. I'm going to replace both rear cam seals too.

Did you ever checked main fuel injection relay in the fusebox? Yes, I have a spare and swapped.

Also....i can't remember.....when stalling occurs...did you tried to jump fuel pump relay with circlip in proper terminals? I have a jumper but didn't think to jump when stumbling. I used it to verify the pump was running/fuel in rail.

Post by **misha** » 06 May 2020, 16:49

Before you attack the cam seals....try with jumping the fuel pump relay when stumbling occurs again.

valvolvo70 · Post by **valvolvo70** » 07 May 2020, 14:01

misha wrote: 06 May 2020, 16:49 Before you attack the cam seals....try with jumping the fuel pump relay when stumbling occurs again.

Jumped relay and didn't make a difference. Don't know if it was exhaust but it smelled like gas in the vehicle while jumped. Plugged the relay back in and stumbled, but not at higher rpms 2K-2500K.

Post by **misha** » 07 May 2020, 15:28

Do you have a fuel leak somewhere?
Since we covered fuel...then it must be ignition/spark issue.
You will need to fix oil leak in the cap and rotor.

valvolvo70 · Post by **valvolvo70** » 08 May 2020, 16:00

misha wrote: 07 May 2020, 15:28 Do you have a fuel leak somewhere? No, I was sitting in the drivers seat with the door open and my exhaust leak is right under the center console.
Since we covered fuel...then it must be ignition/spark issue. Makes sense...It just died, shut off, which is weird.
You will need to fix oil leak in the cap and rotor. yup.

Post by **erikv11** » 09 May 2020, 00:49

It's not weird at all if the cam seal is blown. Which it is.