What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

Post by **Sveedy** » 15 Jun 2020, 20:43

Not sure if it's the same. The ETS was 19mm but I used a 3/4" because that's what I had on hand for a sacrificial socket. I don't see why the idea wouldn't work on the O2 but I haven't had to replace mine yet. It looks like I could just use an open end wrench on mine.

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 15 Jun 2020, 22:20

Nah, O2 sensor socket is 22mm. Making the ECT a 22 would be too easy!

Post by **abscate** » 16 Jun 2020, 04:18

Sveedy wrote: 14 Jun 2020, 10:00 Personally I would have tried taking apart the plastic connector before cutting the wires, particularly with the new one. But that also didn't seem to be the right approach. Additionally there was no way to get an open end wrench in there, at least in my case. And hey, if it was a race, I'd be drinking my second beer while someone else was crimping and heat shrinking wires back together.

A crows foot wrench works to bring this the relatively soft torque required of 22 Nm ( about 15 ft lbs)

Cookeh · Post by **Cookeh** » 16 Jun 2020, 07:41

Crows foot is the way forward.

Post by **abscate** » 16 Jun 2020, 07:59

Cookeh wrote: 16 Jun 2020, 07:41 Crows foot is the way forward.

Can’t wait to see my Wolves start playing again, and the Magpies, and of course, the historic LIVERPOOL SEASON

Post by **Sveedy** » 16 Jun 2020, 08:00

Ha ! Sounds like your saying I needed a Covid wrench in 19 mm

Post by **Chuck W** » 16 Jun 2020, 08:11

Got the Delrin bushings installed into the T5's subframe, while prepping for the manual install.

Post by **Sveedy** » 16 Jun 2020, 08:18

Chuck - Do those get pressed into the frame ?

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 16 Jun 2020, 08:34

Chuck W wrote: 16 Jun 2020, 08:11 Got the Delrin bushings installed into the T5's subframe, while prepping for the manual install.

Oooh yeah, delrin is the way to go!

Sveedy wrote: 16 Jun 2020, 08:18 Chuck - Do those get pressed into the frame ?

Some lube and a dead blow will make easy work of installing these. With the subframe out of the car, it's super easy to hammer them into place.
To remove the originals, cutting with a sawzall and a big screwdriver or two will make it a lot easier to knock them out.

Post by **Chuck W** » 16 Jun 2020, 08:50

I used a 1# sledge to knock 2 of them out. The other two required 20 seconds with a recip saw to cut part of the way through the plastic outer cup (stuck the saw in the gap in the bushing and cut from the inside, out. Not all the way through the shell), then whacked them out with a hammer.

You can hammer them in, but my kit came with the "in-car" install "tools". I used those, a bolt and nut and a piece of scrap with a 1/2" hole in it to press them into place. Wasn't in the mood to listen to myself hammering them in :p