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98 XC: VERY bad starting sound after replacing injector seals

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
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misha
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Re: 98 XC: VERY bad starting sound after replacing injector seals

Post by misha »

I don't understand how something in the engine can be broke after injector(s) replacement or rebuilt.
If there were no problems before,there must be something you did wrong during injector replacement....something fell off from injector or something got into manifold openings.
'97 850 2.5 20v / fully equipped / Motronic 4.4 from the factory / upgraded with S,V,C,XC70 instrument cluster / polar white wagon
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'71 144 S
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erikv11
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Post by erikv11 »

Of course, agreed. Maintenance on injectors is in itself as risk-free as basically most things are you might do on the car. Something else is going on, or nothing is at all.
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Post by wizechatmgr »

Any chance we can get an audio clip of the "bad noise" so that we can try to identify it?
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Post by CIK7 »

erikv11 wrote: 18 Jun 2020, 08:23 Of course, agreed. Maintenance on injectors is in itself as risk-free as basically most things are you might do on the car. Something else is going on, or nothing is at all.
yes the only thing I can think of is that the malfunctioning injector's constant spray got in and then the pressure of excess fuel busted the piston rings. My friend told me the piston rings may have busted. He tried to bypass the key ignition by placing a screwdriver across the tiny mid size terminals on the starter. the SAME click as the key turning was the only result from the starter.
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Post by scot850 »

Thinking about this some more, I have another suggestion for checks. IF the engine partially hydro locked, is it possible that the timing belt could have jumped and bent the valves?

The gas would leak down around the piston rings when left so you may not have seen fuel in the cylinders when you checked. Try pulling the dip stick and see if there is a smell of gasoline from the oil in the sump. Then the top thought may be the issue. Bent valves.

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Post by CIK7 »

wizechatmgr wrote: 18 Jun 2020, 09:17 Any chance we can get an audio clip of the "bad noise" so that we can try to identify it?
unable to crank the motor at all. unable to start after letting it run for a min and shutting it off.
95 854 Turbo 258K, auto, current
09 Rav4 Ltd3.5Fwd, red, 208K, current
98 V GLE/SE red, 379k (277k), 5sp, trailer in progress...
05 CRV EX AWD, Navy, 170K/184k, sold
03 Accord 2dr V6 silver, 196K/214K, 6sp, t-boned, sold
98 S GT white, 175K, 5sp, sold
96 964 silver, 146K, diff&trans/engine self-destr, crushed 😭
98 XC black, 151K, flooded&bent rod, crushed
01 V Base white, 168k, traded for XC
09 Impala LT1 gray, 196K, sold for 01

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Post by CIK7 »

misha wrote: 18 Jun 2020, 02:09 I don't understand how something in the engine can be broke after injector(s) replacement or rebuilt.
If there were no problems before,there must be something you did wrong during injector replacement....something fell off from injector or something got into manifold openings.
one of the injectors was constantly (not shutting off) spraying with key in position ii (not started). excess fuel probably caused the issue
95 854 Turbo 258K, auto, current
09 Rav4 Ltd3.5Fwd, red, 208K, current
98 V GLE/SE red, 379k (277k), 5sp, trailer in progress...
05 CRV EX AWD, Navy, 170K/184k, sold
03 Accord 2dr V6 silver, 196K/214K, 6sp, t-boned, sold
98 S GT white, 175K, 5sp, sold
96 964 silver, 146K, diff&trans/engine self-destr, crushed 😭
98 XC black, 151K, flooded&bent rod, crushed
01 V Base white, 168k, traded for XC
09 Impala LT1 gray, 196K, sold for 01

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Post by volvolugnut »

With all the plugs out, you should be able to turn with a socket on the crank nut from right side fender well. Block up the right front and remove the wheel. Remove a couple plastic nuts and fold the front of plastic inner fender liner forward. Clamp the liner out of the way by folding and clamping to itself with vise grips or C clamp. With a socket (about 30mm or 1 3/16) on the crank nut, turn CLOCKWISE only. It should turn fairly easily. If you meet any resistance STOP.

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Post by abscate »

You can do this from up top if you move the ECM box and get the $9 30 mm box end from Lowe Quality

SKU is 337678

It’s $8 if you served fighting the dinosaurs , Communists, and the (redacted ).

It also comes with a free timing belt installer on the other end

Worst case your starter is stuck. I don’t think you did engine damage.
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Post by misha »

I'm with abscate.
Since your starter is now stuck....i would say that all that noise you had while you still could start the engine was from a bad starter.
It could have stuck it's bendix into a flywheel and blocking it.
Before it got stuck into a flywheel....there was a good chance that it interfered with flywheel while engine is running and made that baniging noise you had.

Remove it and replace it.
Last edited by misha on 18 Jun 2020, 14:03, edited 1 time in total.
'97 850 2.5 20v / fully equipped / Motronic 4.4 from the factory / upgraded with S,V,C,XC70 instrument cluster / polar white wagon
History of Volvos in the family:
'71 144 S
'73 144 De Luxe
'78 244 DL
'78 244 DL
'79 244 GLE
'85 340 GLS

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