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Rear Drivers Side Window Won't go Down

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LuckeyMike
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Joined: 02 Jan 2020, 13:13
Year and Model: 1998 Volvo V70 Base
Location: CT
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Post by LuckeyMike »

In my 1998 Volvo V70 base model, the rear window on the drivers side wont go down. The switch up front does not cause any movement or sounds. Same goes for trying to put it down from the rear door switch, BUT if I try to put it up it makes a noise. Any help?

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misha
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Year and Model: 2010 Volvo S80 D5
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Post by misha »

You will need to remove door panel and check wiring and connections.
2010 S80 D5 / restyling / fully equipped / Twin turbo / Savile Gray Metallic (492)

History of Volvos in the family:
'71 144 S
'73 144 De Luxe
'78 244 DL
'78 244 DL
'79 244 GLE
'85 340 GLS
'97 850 2.5 20v / fully equipped / Motronic 4.4 from the factory / upgraded with S,V,C,XC70 instrument cluster / polar white wagon

scot850
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Year and Model: 2000 V70 R
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Post by scot850 »

Also check the master switch on the driver's door. I think you can swap the 2 back door connectors on the master switch. Provided the other rear door window works normally this will eliminate or show a problem with the master switch. If the master switch is bad then the rear window switch won't work either.

Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold

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BEJinFbk
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Year and Model: '98 V70 R
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Post by BEJinFbk »

Most people have problems getting a window up, so count yourself lucky!
( And always carry a spare trash bag and some painter’s tape, just in case...)

Not getting it to roll down is usually caused by the same issue - Poor Switch Contacts.

Power reaches all of the windows by way of the master switch pack in the driver’s
armrest. With the exception of the driver’s window, power then travels through the
local switches in the other three doors. Bad switch contacts anywhere along the way
can disable either up or down operation.

When the switches are “at rest”, the contacts are all connected to ground.
When a switch is operated, it moves one of the two wires to the motor off
of the grounded contact over to power instead. When it’s operated the
other way, the same thing happens to the other wire going to the motor.
What it’s doing is switching polarity going to the motor to reverse direction.

The local switches are a little different, because at rest, they’re essentially
just pass throughs between the master and the motor. Again, all of the
switch contacts have to be in good shape for everything to work.

For a sanity check, you can unplug the connector at the local switch, identify the two
wires that run from the switch directly to the motor and apply 12 volts straight to the motor.

Apply voltage one way to put it down, then reverse polarity to run it back up.
( Always run this test with a fuse in the hot side of your test power leads ).
If everything functions as it should, then you can start chasing through switches.

Here’s a little something to help:
8AD133C9-C8CB-4424-B6BE-CC874FA86CEA.png
BA7F5C7F-7B0F-421D-950A-95C3E35E3088.png
8B6DCC03-862F-461D-9D44-7DDDC33DF6BC.png
'98 V70 R - Well Equipped for Life Up North... ;)

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